So far I've built a couple battery boxes, and the downfall of all of them have been the switch. What ratings should we be looking at for a normal 3.7v box? Should something be added to protect them? I'm no going to use the little metal tactile switches anymore because they seem prone to failure. Am I doing something wrong? Could I be hooking them up incorectly causing a prob? I've used A mini push button that lasted 2 months. Metal tactile- one didn't make it all the way in before it fell apart and the other lasted a day. I used one with a 5v mod with a control pin and it eventually stopped working as well. Any ideas? Or point me to a sturdy switch for a 2xAA box?
Switch issues
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I like these Horn style switches. look around though there are other colors as well.
Horn style switch -- Red
They are 5 amp
Mosfet (spelling?) is what you need to help smaller rated switches last longer. If I ever have a failure this will be why. I have no mosfet(spelling?) in my 3.7 volt devices. But I do like the horn switch for the box mods. The only time I`ve lost a switch so far is due to glue trouble. Knocking on wood for saying that now.
Horn style switch -- Red
They are 5 amp
Mosfet (spelling?) is what you need to help smaller rated switches last longer. If I ever have a failure this will be why. I have no mosfet(spelling?) in my 3.7 volt devices. But I do like the horn switch for the box mods. The only time I`ve lost a switch so far is due to glue trouble. Knocking on wood for saying that now.
Thanks for the link connman, you always seem to know how to help. I wish I knew elecronics better so I could just figure this stuff out on my own. I have fiends that want boxes, but I don't want them to buy batteries and a charger if the switches fail on them in a week. I put a 12v 3a switch on my 5v mod, hopefully that holds.
I wish I knew elecronics better so I could just figure this stuff out on my own. I have fiends that want boxes, but I don't want them to buy batteries and a charger if the switches fail on them in a week. I put a 12v 3a switch on my 5v mod, hopefully that holds.
I have also had success with the horn style switch from madvapes that Connman recommends. I also found a similarly rated switch at Radioshack. Those small tactile switches are just asking for trouble though....they can't handle the load and will fail early if they aren't protected.
A control pin on the regulator could help on the 5 volt mods
These two 5 volt regulators have a control pin and Madvapes has this to say on that.
"and have a control pin so you can use any switch you want without worry of it burning up! These are a dream come true for a 5 volt mod..They also provide short circuit protection, mosfet like functionality via control pin and high current output."
4 pin
LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator with control pin!
5 pin
D2Pak, LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator with control pin
I`ve been using these switches on my 5 Volt mods with the 5 pin regulator and one has been my maine vape for over a month. Good switch running a 3 amp ratting. Some may not like it though since it does stick up a good bit.
and its out of stock
Mini Push Button Switch With Black Cap 3a
These two 5 volt regulators have a control pin and Madvapes has this to say on that.
"and have a control pin so you can use any switch you want without worry of it burning up! These are a dream come true for a 5 volt mod..They also provide short circuit protection, mosfet like functionality via control pin and high current output."
4 pin
LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator with control pin!
5 pin
D2Pak, LDO 5 volt, 3.0 amp regulator with control pin
I`ve been using these switches on my 5 Volt mods with the 5 pin regulator and one has been my maine vape for over a month. Good switch running a 3 amp ratting. Some may not like it though since it does stick up a good bit.
and its out of stock
Mini Push Button Switch With Black Cap 3a
Switches should be produced with a safety factor in the current rating but use something with a current rating 20% or so greater than what you are using. You might also want to get a hermetically sealed switch. This will keep dust and moisture out of the switch which can ruin the contact.
Digi-Key - CKN1685-ND (Manufacturer - E112SD1CQE)
there are different caps for this in the listing
Digi-Key - CKN1685-ND (Manufacturer - E112SD1CQE)
there are different caps for this in the listing
I've never understood the appeal of tiny tact switches. Look at the expensive American mods, most always have a nice large switch.
This RS switch has been used by many and works well. It has a much lower profile than the horn switches.
3A 125V SPST Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com
This RS switch has been used by many and works well. It has a much lower profile than the horn switches.
3A 125V SPST Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com
Lower profile? Looks like it sticks up farther with a flat lip. Might you know of a mod I can see using it?
Thanks in advance
Thank you candre23.
That looks good and not as bad as what I was making from that picture. There really wasn`t anything to compare it to in there.
Hope our local Radio Shack has them so I can see one in person next time I`m in town.
Something like a horn button but flat would be great. Like the door bell buttons. But they are long on the back side and seem to be around 20 or more dollars. I sure like the glow effect those have. Wish they made small ones.
A switch like the Silver Bullet would be really sweet and seems flush to the surface.
That looks good and not as bad as what I was making from that picture. There really wasn`t anything to compare it to in there.
Hope our local Radio Shack has them so I can see one in person next time I`m in town.
Something like a horn button but flat would be great. Like the door bell buttons. But they are long on the back side and seem to be around 20 or more dollars. I sure like the glow effect those have. Wish they made small ones.
A switch like the Silver Bullet would be really sweet and seems flush to the surface.
The thing is, current rating is directly proportional to contact size. If you want a button that can handle 3+ amps, it's going to have to be kinda big. The other option is a tact switch with a MOSFET. They make tact switches in lots of different styles, so you're not limited to the little post-style ones you see all the time on mods. I've found large round buttons, larger, metal buttons with LED, 10mm snap-dome switches, and these nifty dual-color illuminated buttons. Once you start digging through the Digikey and Mouser catalogs, there is a ton of interesting stuff to choose from.
The trickiest part (as you've seen) is figuring out how big they really are. There's no sense of scale in the super closeup pics, so you have to go straight to the bottom of the datasheet to figure out what will fit and what won't.
The trickiest part (as you've seen) is figuring out how big they really are. There's no sense of scale in the super closeup pics, so you have to go straight to the bottom of the datasheet to figure out what will fit and what won't.
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It sticks up less and also requires a smaller mounting hole.
So you've never seen the famous 2XAA NicoStick mod guide, that started it all? Pre-dating even the Janty Stick?
The button does require a firmer push than the horn.
Simply opening and closing the circuit with a switch is not the best idea because it will reduce the working life of the battery, since it would be discharging at almost 6C when fully charged to 4.2v. It also tends to burn out mini switches, as youve noticed.
You want to use a FET (ive used BJTs as well) as the actual switching device, and use the physical switch to turn on the FET. If you design the circuit correctly, the FET should limit the discharge rate of the battery to a more reasonable 3-4C.
google "FET switching schematic" for more details. It is not a difficult circuit to design.
You want to use a FET (ive used BJTs as well) as the actual switching device, and use the physical switch to turn on the FET. If you design the circuit correctly, the FET should limit the discharge rate of the battery to a more reasonable 3-4C.
google "FET switching schematic" for more details. It is not a difficult circuit to design.
You know I never have really read that famous 2XAA NicoStick mod guide. My sister must have though and once I got a glimpse of hers I was off and running. I do know that Nicowolf is to be thanked though on the idea.
And thanks WillyB for posting that switch for I do need a somewhat smaller one and it seems this might be the one. I`m actually wanting to see if the side of the box could hold this one. It won`t hold the normal Horn button to my liking. Might have to read the famous 2XAA NicoStick mod guide and see if it is mentioned in there perhaps.
Thanks again for this info candre23,
I can spend hours looking at stuff like that. Can`t wait for broadband so I can look at it faster. Faster means more of it.
I can spend hours looking at stuff like that. Can`t wait for broadband so I can look at it faster. Faster means more of it.
This fet stuff seems to always be mentioned and I`m going to see what I can learn on it now I suppose.
Hope this can be something fairly small. And now I`m off to google fet switching schematic. Hope this is simple or I might look into this another day. My mind feels somewhat sluggish today. Maybe some more coffee required kind of deal. I know my sister is using it on her new mods.
Again thanks for the input here. We can never learn enough and this forum is packed full of brilliant minds.
Thanks for all the great discussion, and links. The main reason I wanted a small button was for my 1xAA box, but for my 2xAA boxes indnt mind the bigger switches, as long as I can fit all the 5v circuit stuff and the button that's all that matters. I'll have to check out mouser and digi key. But like you said you never know how big they will actually be.. Hence the topic. hopefully this helps more than just me.
I have tried so many switches, and eventually they all give out, IMO. That is why I went to using Touch Sensitive Switches. I know how you feel... I use to get so frustrated!
They all use a switch. You can't not use a switch. Something has to make and break the circuit. Those mods use large, custom-made physical switches, but other than size, there's no difference between any of those switches and a 99 cent pushbutton. It's still two pieces of metal and a spring to keep them apart. Whether you carve your own switch out of a block of metal or buy a pushbutton, all the same rules apply. You're sending a decent amount of current across the surfaces of two touching pieces of metal, and eventually they might get dirty/abraded/misaligned.
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