Switchless copper pipe mod

[crazyhorse]

I used a 2½" length of ½" copper pipe, two end caps, a short piece of 0.496" OD compression spring, a ¼" phone jack, a bolt, insulating sleeve, an unidentified piece of hardware out of my junk bin and a 14500 battery.

The unidentified piece of hardware resembles a stainless steel bolt of 0.1875 diameter and ¾" length. Except for it's not threaded and has a thin, flat, round head. I have no idea what it is other than a thing I've had in a box of miscellaneous stainless steel junk laying around for about 20 years. Maybe it's some type of rivet.

I drilled a closely matching hole in the bottom end cap and inserted this thing which is used as a plunger to push against the bottom (negative) end of the battery. This lifts the battery toward the bolt in the phone jack atomizer connector to make the circuit. When I release pressure from the "thing", the compression spring in the top end pushes the battery back away from the positive connector (bolt) and breaks the circuit. The copper body is the negative side of the circuit.

It's all very simple with no wiring, soldering and best of all, no limited-life ratshack electrical switch. It's simple to operate. Just push the "thing" with a pinky finger as if it was a momentary push switch and take a hit

I would post some pictures but I had to ship my camera back to Canon for a repair. Basically, it looks identical to the pipe mod in this post, and uses the same parts, but no electrical switch.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/18331-pipe-mod-v-1-0-a.html

Edit: Forgot to mention, I also used a very lightweight compression spring to stabilize the "thing" and hold it against the bottom of the battery. This leaves about ¼" inch of this manual switch protruding beyond the end cap.

Also, this apparatus seems to produce more vapor than a mod with an electrical switch and wiring. Maybe the direct connection with no circuitry in between is more efficient.

 

[crazyhorse]

I got the camera back. Here's a picture of all hardware components. I could have done a better job with the photography. Sorry but you get the idea. A very basic apparatus with nothing to goof up.

1 pipe, 2 end caps, 1 insulated brass machine screw (loose - falls out for easy cleaning/provides for good airflow), 2 springs, 1 phone jack and the "thing".

 

[sunsetnkc]

Can you detail your switch more so we can build one?

 

[dalton3699]

i second that

 

[j0ker]

Wow...Thats really great! More details on the switch would be awesome!

 

[crazyhorse]

Maybe this picture of the assembly order will help.

The small compression spring fits over the shank of the plunger thingy. The shank inserts through the hole in the end cap. The "pad" end of the thingy contacts the negative end of the battery.

The large compression spring goes in the tubing above the battery and is compressed between the battery and the end cap/atomizer connector. The bolt, if I remember correctly is a #10 x ¾" brass machine screw with the head ground to the shape you see. This is screwed into some miscellaneous wire insulation and drops into the ratshack ¼" phone jack atomizer connector

The larger spring overpowers the smaller spring which creates a mechanical separation between the atomizer and the positive terminal of the battery. This breaks the contact. The smaller spring keeps the thingy stable within the tube/end cap and keeps it in contact with the negative end of the battery.

To power the atomizer, press against the protruding end of the plunger thingy which pushes the positive terminal battery into the end of the insulated bolt and enables contact with the atomizer.

Getting the spring lengths and tensions properly balanced is important but it's not hard to do at all. It's also crucial that the battery slides freely within the tube.

You can find suitable springs at an old timey independent hardware store. Don't even think about wasting your time looking at places like Lowz or HD.

Not too sure what can be readily found to work as a plunger thingy but I've determined mine is a non-threaded stud called a "weld rooted fastener". I imagine something like a 20d nail would work just fine if you have a bench grinder to cut the nail and shape the end. You'll also need a closely matching drill bit to perforate the end cap.

 

[crazyhorse]

My plunger thingy is a PGZ 1910 weld pin.
On this page: PGZ Weld Pin

 

[BeRight]

The positive terminal (bolt) looks like it could short against the large spring and then to the copper (-).

 

[Kelemvor]

should be easy to isolate the big spring with overhead folium or similar.
interesting concept. 1st time is see it explained by one little picture.

additionalley i would use folium on the copper body too. just for the case a battery with damaged isolation is inserted in the wrong direction.

 

[crazyhorse]

It can't happen. There's way too much clearance between the spring and the terminal.

 

[BeRight]

It can't happen. There's way too much clearance between the spring and the terminal.

Good to know - - thanks

 

[sunsetnkc]

great, thanks for the extra picture. How is it working? still going strong?

 

[crazyhorse]

It works fine. I like it because it's purely mechanical and simple as dirt. It's also easy to clean. Just pop the ends off, run a tissue through the tube and wipe down the other parts.

Being so simple with no electrical circuitry is also a detriment since there is no safety or master switch. Depending on how tightly you set your spring pressure differential you could light it up by carrying it around in your pocket. This isn't a big issue to me since I rarely do that.

 

[sunsetnkc]

But most don't have a master switch.... I have a couple magnum flashlight mods, but both are showing signs of the switch going out. Want something more simple, no wiring and this looks like a poor mans Steampunk Sparkplug kind of mod. I am going to work on building something close to it this week. I have some 18650 batteries I need to make use of.

 

[crazyhorse]

Will you please advise me about the fit of a 18650 inside of ¾" copper tube? Next time I order in batteries I want to get some of those but I'm curious about how well they slide.

 

[Some Guy]

Crazy they slide fine in a 3/4 ID tube. 3/4 water pipe will be sloppy though.
18650 is supposed to be 18mm x 65 mm . But the ones I have run a bit big. Like 18.4mm which is about .725 inch . Still plenty of room for 3/4.

Interesting link Telescoping Pipe and Tube

 

[crazyhorse]

Great. Sloppy and a little loose is good.

I wasn't sure of the "real" measurement on these batteries. The 14500 batteries can be as fat as 14½ mm in spots.

Thanks!

 

[Vaporer]

crazyhorse,

A very slick and interesting simple mod.
Nice job!

 

[TJoe]

I like this mod seeing I`m handier with plumbing that electronics.
I cut the pipe up,drilled a hole in one cap for the push button (rivet).
Next I drove to radio shack the get a fitting for my 510 atomizer.
He had nothing like it in the store of any size.
I`m left waiting for my 510 connectors from China but the question is
Will they work with the brass screw?

 

[Dazed]

Well i built this mod and it worked great for a few hours but then it stoped working. When i dissasembled it i found that the cover on the battery was worn away. It started shorting out. would it hurt to leave the battery forword and have the plunger move by its self to make the connection.