t-shirts @ IkenVape.....
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VM, I have to tell you! These Imr's are insane. I swear, yesterday I put them in and called out 2:30. Using them in series 8.4v straight to an 801 5.2Ω. The batteries' final discharge was 4:00 even this morning.
The Lizards are coming!
Sweet! Is this new crop of Chameleons modified from its ancestor in any way?
So I guess what I'm looking at is...
* lizard
* lizard USB passthru gizmo
* 2x IMR 16340
* WF-138 charger
* tshirt
* (see what attys and pretty colored cartos are in stock)
About the batteries...
* does one provide longer runtime than the other?
* does one make for a better "hit" than the other?
* does one make more sense for stacking than the other (and vice versa)?
I'm not looking to stack them. Maybe I should just get one of each and see?
Also another question. Does the Chameleon have battery venting holes (please yes)?
Great Nut!!!
What kind of times are you getting from them?Did you like the Strawberry?
No sir, This batch will be direct from the source of origin.
There are no vent holes for the original Chameleon, because the of the protective layer of the switch and added protection for the adapter housing and isolated atomizer. The bottom cap of the Chameleon does not get applied Very tight. With a small amount of force the cap be removed easily, don't get the wrong idea, the exterior is very well built quality. However the next gen most likely will have them regardless.
About the batteries, I prefer AW over anything at this point. The Limn (high drain) is just fantastic. Since they are of a different technology the manufacture says, "These cells can handle high amperage and is safe to use in series / multi-cell applications. Can be charge with any LiIon battery charger with 4.2V output. They don't have a protection pcb circuit because they are considered safe chemistry. If you over discharge them, they simply die and won't burst into flames." I been using an 801 xhv on 2 of these and lasted from 2:30 pm to 4:00am straight. Since you only plan using just one battery, I would suggest the Limn.
The Lion Black AW have a recored average cycle of 9 hours, but they they drop .3 of a volt half way though, putting out 3.9. The perk to these batteries, if your using them in series is that your getting 7.8V which is a beautiful spot for these 801's.
I hope this clarifies a bit Mr.Madness, if you have any more q's, keep em coming!
ps. I logged your wishlist, it will be subject to change based on your decision.
Aw Sorry Mike! but we'll see if we can make it happen!
I've been getting around 2 hours of pretty much constant vaping. That's really good for me. I really work the batteries, double draws and long draws. These bats are way better than the ones I had been using, long lasting and a whole lot more vapor. Love the strawberry, a great change from my usual tobacco favorites.
E-nut do you think they last longer and are better than the blue Ultra-Fire 10440 batteries?
Hi Isaac, Thanx for answering my questions!
So you're saying the bottom end cap would pop off first if pressure built up inside. You may not know the answer to these follow up questions, but since they came to mind...
* Rougly what PSI pops the end cap off?
* Are the bottom end cap threads weaker by design to break loose under pressure?
* Is this a layer of protection intentionally in-lieu of venting holes?
If it pops open with out much force, there may be no need for vent holes at all. Also given the LiMn batts, I'm not concerned about violent fiery explosions.
Yup! All other considerations aside these seem A LOT safer for vaping purposes.
So you're saying the bottom end cap would pop off first if pressure built up inside. You may not know the answer to these follow up questions, but since they came to mind...
* Rougly what PSI pops the end cap off?
* Are the bottom end cap threads weaker by design to break loose under pressure?
* Is this a layer of protection intentionally in-lieu of venting holes?
If it pops open with out much force, there may be no need for vent holes at all. Also given the LiMn batts, I'm not concerned about violent fiery explosions.
Yup! All other considerations aside these seem A LOT safer for vaping purposes.
Seems to me they are a lot stronger, get hotter, than the Ultrafires. Seems they last longer too, although I don't have an exact time.
I'm hard on them too, constant vaping and draw after draw nonstop. These stay strong until the end.
Your right! I do not know!
but that doesn't mean that I will not deliver your requested answers good sir. I'll write a message to the manufacture and once the answers are given, we'll return with the answers. I do know however, that the design of the unit is indeed meant to be this way for the purpose of safety. I wanted to rephrase this piece With a small amount of force the cap be removed easily, i meant to say that the bottom cap doesn't lock tightly. The cap needs to rotate 750 degrees to be removed. The button sector needs to rotate 1080 degrees to be disconnected to the unit. I love the fact that this is a sealed unit, especially since we have the appropriate Aw batteries. I can't be anymore grateful to Aw and their safety measures. Everytime the manufacture and I have a chat, I just want to copy every word that comes from him and post them on the site. Great person and extremely knowledgeable. :thimb:
Hi Isaac, I'm interested in what the manufacturer had to say about this. The obvious concern is that a battery gone bad could get ugly in a tightly sealed pipe.
Also a related question. Can the end cap be disassembled without too much trouble like the button section can be? What I'm wondering is if it would be possible for someone with basic tools (hand held battery powered drill, screw drivers, and wrenches, nothing remotely resembling a machine shop) to drill out a couple of venting holes thru the end cap.
On my LPV-2 the inside of the bottom cap has a hole drilled that's depth is about half the thickness of the endcap. I point this out because (assuming they all have this?) if you wanted to drill a hole in the endcap it's already half done and you've got a pilot hole to make it easy!
Well than that would be a totally different unit and my answer would not apply at all!
How about you switch your question to better match my answer?
Well than that would be a totally different unit and my answer would not apply at all!
How about you switch your question to better match my answer?
Sorry my question does not match your answer
I figure if I could disassemble that part and see what I was doing I could manage putting in some venting, but drilling thru the part blindly would be asking for trouble (snapping a spring coil, breaking the circuit, and/or who knows what else could go wrong).
I figure if I could disassemble that part and see what I was doing I could manage putting in some venting, but drilling thru the part blindly would be asking for trouble (snapping a spring coil, breaking the circuit, and/or who knows what else could go wrong).
Lol
Hi Vmadness,
No worries for fear of damaging any internal components. The sector that houses the button switch is isolated from the battery and adapter housings'. I would imagine that modifying the battery housing would cause no issues if done properly with all but a vice and hand drill. I would attempt to try mine first, but I love the finish and feel so much. I still haven't received any word from our Manufacture addressing any of the questions, for that I'm sorry. Your still right in questioning, even though the unit is made of isolating parts and the chances of disaster should gear the consequence towards the bottom cap. The unit is still sealed. Personally I'm sticking with LiMn batteries as a safety precaution.
LiMn for sure, you sent some of those my way already
I not thinking about putting visible holes in the battery tube. I'm wondering about the bottom end cap in particular. I've seen the vids where you take the button sector apart (looks simple enough). Can the bottom end cap be similarly disassembled?
There's a brass contact point jutting out of it which I assume rides on a spring of some kind within the end cap. I have in mind to disassemble that section, remove the contact point and spring device, drill a hole (or two) thru the exterior end of the cap (and maybe thru the interior side if need be), and then to reassemble the part.
I wouldn't want to damage the spring components inside, that's why I'm asking if it can be disassembled without too much trouble. The button sector has the alum disk on one side that pops off. Is that how the end cap is put together too?
[edit: I'm pretty certain I could manage putting a small hole in the tube itself if the end cap is too complicated]
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