I am sure there is a simple thing that I am just not doing or what not, but I got new heads and a new T3 the other day and keep getting burnt vapes off of it. Is there any secret to preventing this. The juice is volt ry4 0mg so I don't think it is a thickness issue. Any help here would be appreciated.
T3 Burnt taste?
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I've gotten it once when I was really low on juice. Sometimes a good cleaning is needed. Take the middle part out and run it through hot water. Then dry the it and the wicks off with a paper towel. Blow out anything through the tubes too. I haven't gotten a burned taste from the T3's but the X2 Clearo's that usually meant it needed replaced.
Thanks, once I pulled this head apart I saw the wick was burnt looking in the center where the post came off. Considering these are only a few bucks I just opened up another one and will order about 10 extra heads on the next order I place
I get the same thing quite a bit, and sometimes from new heads. I noticed it does it more often right after the battery is charged. So I think it has to do with that. Also I noticed, if you stand them up, instead of laying on their side(like we had to do with the Clearos) it helps prevent the burning. Also, on a fresh battery if for the first 15 to 20 hits, you just take small ones, it seems to help....
Like you, at 2.95 each its almost not worth cleaning...
Like you, at 2.95 each its almost not worth cleaning...
i just got that tonight! burnt taste on freshly cleaned head and full juice tank. I did do a dry burn while peaking down that center tube until I saw red... maybe I burnt wicks?
I have not been able to get the center tube to come out... what's the trick there?
I have not been able to get the center tube to come out... what's the trick there?
I've been afraid to squash the tube taking hold of it any harder.. been resisting the urge to get pliers
Pliers might be risky. On the bright side, even if you damage the tube, replacement coil assemblies come with a new tube too.
I pull with my fingers, bending a little at the connection. It takes considerable effort but comes off. On an old head, I've done it at least 10 times, and it is just as tight as a brand new one.
As far as burning is concerned, I have burned every loose wick. Seems I don't give it enough time between big puffs. On the bright side, a good soaking of the wicks cleans them pretty well, and got rid of the burned taste. Even after 20 fills, I have one still going strong.
I pull with my fingers, bending a little at the connection. It takes considerable effort but comes off. On an old head, I've done it at least 10 times, and it is just as tight as a brand new one.
As far as burning is concerned, I have burned every loose wick. Seems I don't give it enough time between big puffs. On the bright side, a good soaking of the wicks cleans them pretty well, and got rid of the burned taste. Even after 20 fills, I have one still going strong.
If you rock the air tube back and forth while pulling it will come off. It does take a little force, but it is doable. Remove the silicon seal before you start so you can see what you're doing. That seal just slides off. It may help to have the T3 on a battery that is no longer good for regular service to improve the leverage for you. Be careful not to lose the "flavor wicks", the loose wicks that lay on top of the coil. If you could see red with the tube in place, you were probably seeing those "flavor wicks" starting to burn.
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guarantee is expressed or implied. Proceed at your own risk.
Just my opinion, worth what you're paying for it. Your results and mileage may vary. No warranty or guarantee is expressed or implied. Proceed at your own risk.
ruh roh.. seeing red.. that means I'm probably going to need something to replace them with.. and I haven't really gone into that rebuilding thing. Hmmm.. I'm guessing white sewing thread isn't gonna cut it, right?
No, white sewing thread won't work very well, but if you have candle wick hanging around from making candles, that might just work. Worst case, jus order a replacement head and you're good to go.
awsum when you get a chance please can you read the top wick threads...mixed opinion...im so confused...can you give me yours....thanks ooops t3 replacement thread...
im just thinking in the future....if the fda....pull the pin in april...Im not sure what will happen...I just want to learn how to rebuild t3s just in case....plus usps....has gone up....I have to save a few $s where I can...
I'm already stocked up.. just hate to waste a device that still fires. Yeah.. I'm cheap
awsum when you get a chance please can you read the top wick threads...mixed opinion...im so confused...can you give me yours....thanks ooops t3 replacement thread...
I have zero experience with rebuilding a T3 head. It should be possible to do and I really think the "flavor wicks" are a necessary component unless you're using very thick liquids, high VG content. They act as sort of a "plug" to prevent flooding the coil and giving you a mouthful of liquid.
As far as wick material is concerned I plan on using silica wick and may try cotton wick as well. Silica is much more heat resistant than cotton and does wick well. I've yet to buy any Kanthal or nichrome wire and wick materials, but it's just a question of time before I do. Buying new heads, unless or until the FDA screws things up, is probably the easiest option, plus it will provide a good inventory of heads to rebuild should anything go wrong, a la FDA.
<--- uses all VG - occasionally gets that little flood anyway.. and I have some darn thick liquids.
That's funny, I've never had flooding, not yet anyway. I wonder if the VG is getting thinned by the heat around the atomizer chamber and that is the source of the flooding? Just speculation.
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it's only internal flooding.. a little gurgling that can be remedied by doing a thermometer shake to get the wet out... when the tank is low.
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