Taifun GT Discusion!

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Mtek

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I use rayon, but one thing I've learned with my limited tank experience is the Taifun gt2 needs a while for a fresh build to break in to gain the max flavor and vapor. It don't understand the physics behind it, but my Kayfun style tanks are not that way. Worth it though as this tank takes names.

Well it works great but I think even with all that juice I can taste a bit of cotton in the background. But I liked this S shape, so I will probably cut the ends more next time.
 

schatz

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Thank you all for the plethora of tips and info here on this thread fellow GT lovers. I have been vapeing with the GT1 for a year and a half now with very few problems, thanks to your knowledge. So I just recieved my GT2s the other day,based on your rave reviews and on fastec reviews I purchased 2 of the Hot cigs and 3 of the other recommended GT2s to compare. I really like the look of these,would really like to love these as much as everyone else,but are you guys having leak issues with yours. Mine are leaking out the air holes quite a bit, I build them the same as the GT1,maybe I am not understanding the adjustable juice control, and am letting in too much juice? How does that work for you guys,do you tighten down the chamber cap for controlling the juice flow? Also noticed that the chamber sleeve on both versions are very loose compare to my GT1s,this might be my problem.Just wondering if anybody else is having these issues,and what you may have done to solve them.Thanks in advance.
 

ToolmanTexas

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Thank you all for the plethora of tips and info here on this thread fellow GT lovers. I have been vapeing with the GT1 for a year and a half now with very few problems, thanks to your knowledge. So I just recieved my GT2s the other day,based on your rave reviews and on fastec reviews I purchased 2 of the Hot cigs and 3 of the other recommended GT2s to compare. I really like the look of these,would really like to love these as much as everyone else,but are you guys having leak issues with yours. Mine are leaking out the air holes quite a bit, I build them the same as the GT1,maybe I am not understanding the adjustable juice control, and am letting in too much juice? How does that work for you guys,do you tighten down the chamber cap for controlling the juice flow? Also noticed that the chamber sleeve on both versions are very loose compare to my GT1s,this might be my problem.Just wondering if anybody else is having these issues,and what you may have done to solve them.Thanks in advance.

Mine leak with the standard tank (think its the o-rings around glass)... so I use the nano and acrylic tanks with no leaking. I like the look also and would like to not leak but haven't solved it yet but also have put in a ton of time to fix.

$2.04 Replacement PC Colored Nano Tank for Taifun GT - translucent / w/ acrylic top cap at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

$2.06 Replacement Acrylic Tank for Taifun GT-T V2 RTA - translucent at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 
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schatz

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Mine leak with the standard tank (think its the o-rings around glass)... so I use the nano and acrylic tanks with no leaking. I like the look also and would like to not leak but haven't solved it yet but also have put in a ton of time to fix.

$2.04 Replacement PC Colored Nano Tank for Taifun GT - translucent / w/ acrylic top cap at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

$2.06 Replacement Acrylic Tank for Taifun GT-T V2 RTA - translucent at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Thanks toolman,I am glad I ordered the acrylic tanks now.I am useing one now with no problems.I wonder why they changed the tank designs, it just seems like the old one piece design was fine.Also, the juice control is adjusted by tightening or loosening the chamber cap?
 

ToolmanTexas

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Thanks toolman,I am glad I ordered the acrylic tanks now.I am useing one now with no problems.I wonder why they changed the tank designs, it just seems like the old one piece design was fine.Also, the juice control is adjusted by tightening or loosening the chamber cap?
I like the new tank look but just can't get it to not leak.

Supposedly you can ctrl the juice via the tightening/loosening of the chamber cap. I tried this initially but the cap would tighten up when I screwed into the tank, so I abandoned it. But, honestly, I haven't had a need for it and have not had a dry hit at all.
 
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dwcraig1

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Oh let see where to start here. OK I'll go with the sliding sleeve first, it needs to be tight enough so that it doesn't move when installing the tank but loose enough that it can still be pushed down and pulled back into place. Most of the clones, both TGT 1 and 2 ship with a 10 x 1 mm o-ring around the deck which is too small. 11 x 1 mm fits this better, there are 10.5, 11.5 mm o-rings available.
On to the chamber cap's fitment, here again most clones shipped with a 10 x 1 mm o-ring and 11 or even 12 fits better. On mine it appears that the cap's threads aren't even able to get started because of the o-ring but with a bit of fiddling it starts and stays put.
Wick ends, I probe mine , the part sticking out, in the center to expand them in the slots. Cap needs to be tighten down to the point that there is no visible gaps, use a tooth pick and see how much the wick end can move in the slot.
I use only the standard tanks on my TGT 2's with no problems. On one clone I did have to change the 17 x 1.5 mm o-ring that's seals the tank to the base to a 18 x 1 mm because the tank wouldn't screw all the way down.

And I'll finish with the Hotcigs, only o-rings I changed on the two that I have is the one for the AFC ring, again they used something around a 10 x 1 mm when a 16 or 17 fit correctly.

Make sure that the chamber is extended far enough when installing the tank otherwise the 4 x 1 o-ring that's on the chimney stem won't be inside the chamber's cap.
 

chanelvaps

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Oh let see where to start here. OK I'll go with the sliding sleeve first, it needs to be tight enough so that it doesn't move when installing the tank but loose enough that it can still be pushed down and pulled back into place. Most of the clones, both TGT 1 and 2 ship with a 10 x 1 mm o-ring around the deck which is too small. 11 x 1 mm fits this better, there are 10.5, 11.5 mm o-rings available.
MY TGT2 from FT came with a 10x1 here and I just replaced it with an 11 and it is perfect
 

d.g.

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Ok so in my second built, I kept my coil but ised a regular shaped wick instead of S shaped. The vape is still awesome if not better. I have much less cotton taste, it is almost non existent.

I still have leaking from the airhole but the amount is lower. Here is what I find interesting; it doesn't leak when I vape or just leave it there. It only leakes if I leave it after I vape. So it is not too bad. And the amount that leaks is finite, it stops leaking by itself while in other atties if it leaks it will continue to leak if you don't blow every drop of liquid.
 

d.g.

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No I use the stock one. As I said, in the previous built I had too much cotton and I think that is why it leaked.

This time, I think I have the perfect amount so there might be 4 reasons behind this;

1- I suck at building coils :) Don't laugh it is possible.
2- I don't close the juice control enough.
3- I use 2 or 2.5 holes on the airflow. Sucktion might be too high.
4- I vape at 13w right now at 1.3 ohm. Maybe I should increase it.
 
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schatz

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I like the new tank look but just can't get it to not leak.

Supposedly you can ctrl the juice via the tightening/loosening of the chamber cap. I tried this initially but the cap would tighten up when I screwed into the tank, so I abandoned it. But, honestly, I haven't had a need for it and have not had a dry hit at all.
I got my tanks to qiut leaking,so far,by lubricateing the o rings with a little PG and tightening the ******** out of it.So far working good,I really like the way these look also. I got a couple of the other accessory tanks not to leak this way also.In atoumotive industry we always lube orings with same lubricant that oring will be subjected to.
 

schatz

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Oh let see where to start here. OK I'll go with the sliding sleeve first, it needs to be tight enough so that it doesn't move when installing the tank but loose enough that it can still be pushed down and pulled back into place. Most of the clones, both TGT 1 and 2 ship with a 10 x 1 mm o-ring around the deck which is too small. 11 x 1 mm fits this better, there are 10.5, 11.5 mm o-rings available.
On to the chamber cap's fitment, here again most clones shipped with a 10 x 1 mm o-ring and 11 or even 12 fits better. On mine it appears that the cap's threads aren't even able to get started because of the o-ring but with a bit of fiddling it starts and stays put.
Wick ends, I probe mine , the part sticking out, in the center to expand them in the slots. Cap needs to be tighten down to the point that there is no visible gaps, use a tooth pick and see how much the wick end can move in the slot.
I use only the standard tanks on my TGT 2's with no problems. On one clone I did have to change the 17 x 1.5 mm o-ring that's seals the tank to the base to a 18 x 1 mm because the tank wouldn't screw all the way down.

And I'll finish with the Hotcigs, only o-rings I changed on the two that I have is the one for the AFC ring, again they used something around a 10 x 1 mm when a 16 or 17 fit correctly.

Make sure that the chamber is extended far enough when installing the tank otherwise the 4 x 1 o-ring that's on the chimney stem won't be inside the chamber's cap.
Thanks, spot on advice,I have some 11x1 orings I ordered for the GT1 a while back after reading on here about them being usefull.What diameter coils and guage are you guys useing on these? On GT1 I have been useing a 2.4 dia 28 ga coil with ko gen. I assume this should work on the 2s, but maybe larger dia.coil might work better.
 

chanelvaps

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On my Gt1 I use .70 bit and rock it at 1.5-1.7 always (30 gauge) and almost always with my fav RY4
on my Gt2 I switched to 2 bit and rock it at 1.-1.2 (30 gauge)
Not sure I am doing it the best but it works for me
KGD ALWAYS-now on my Lemo I use a 2.4 diameter with 28 gauge twisted
 

dwcraig1

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I seem to always get surprised when I accurately measure the shaft that I'm wrapping my coils on. I thought it was 2.5 mm but maybe 2.4 mm, no it's 2.6 mm. 28 gauge nickel, about 11.5 wraps, 0.12Ω running @ 28 watts. Things are progressing so fast with vaping that if my vape gets any better I don't know what I"ll do. ...LOL
 
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chanelvaps

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I seem to always get surprised when I accurately measure the shaft that I'm wrapping my coils on. I thought it was 2.5 mm but maybe 2.4 mm, no it's 2.6 mm. 28 gauge nickel, about 11.5 wraps, 0.12Ω running @ 28 watts. Things are progressing so fast with vaping that if my vape gets any better I don't know what I"ll do. ...LOL
Let me borrow the always accurate mind of Craig and ask:
If I am using twisted 28 gauge 6-7 wraps is that the same as using non twisted and doing 11.5 wraps? I guess mine would be .5 wraps too because they have to be one half wrap to accommodate the way its built.
 

chanelvaps

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I seem to always get surprised when I accurately measure the shaft that I'm wrapping my coils on. I thought it was 2.5 mm but maybe 2.4 mm, no it's 2.6 mm. 28 gauge nickel, about 11.5 wraps, 0.12Ω running @ 28 watts. Things are progressing so fast with vaping that if my vape gets any better I don't know what I"ll do. ...LOL
Mine might be too. Not sure. I am going by what the person that sent it to me said and I was pretty sure it was 2.4
 
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