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I would drill/mill those air holes on mine in a heart bit but I'm hesitant because I could not open the base to make sure that all of the metal shavings are out of there.
I could possibly say that I cut them slots to let out the ones "they"left in there.
I used a cut off wheel on a Dremel so I'm more or less looking at "dust"
Did you see what I got out of my last FT GS, it's a few pages back. The one that I got out of the FT type A base was similar if you compressed it.
Also I bought a Kangertech Subtank, at first I shied away from it because I wasn't interested in the RB part 'cause I have all kinds of kayfun variations and wasn't interested in buying heads. Then I saw some videos on rebuilding the heads, real simple looking.
If you can get over the hulking size of it and want big air and big clouds with the simplicity of a TGT then this tank might be for you.
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I could possibly say that I cut them slots to let out the ones "they"left in there.
I used a cut off wheel on a Dremel so I'm more or less looking at "dust"
Did you see what I got out of my last FT GS, it's a few pages back. The one that I got out of the FT type A base was similar if you compressed it.
Also I bought a Kangertech Subtank, at first I shied away from it because I wasn't interested in the RB part 'cause I have all kinds of Kayfun variations and wasn't interested in buying heads. Then I saw some videos on rebuilding the heads, real simple looking.
If you can get over the hulking size of it and want big air and big clouds with the simplicity of a TGT then this tank might be for you.
I sure have missed that post of yours. That chip is from inside the base? It was shorting everything there.
That chip no, but one like shorting out inside the base but not initially, it had to move first then shorted.
Is it possible to complete remove the deck? I just received the Limwell clone for Focal and the deck is slightly tilted at an angel. I can still get the two pieces that surround the deck and hold the wick on fine but the angle prevents chimney tube piece from aligning properly with the hole causing the top cap to be very difficult to screw on...I pretty much have to force it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
You don't need to separate the deck to fix that problem, they just didn't get it pressed together all the way.
Take the base and place it on to end of a 3/4" 3/8 drive socket, put the 510 of the base into the square hole of the socket.(pointing up)
You can leave the screws in for this.
Next place another 3/8" drive socket, square hole, over the screws and against the deck and using a small hammer on a solid surface tap the deck into place.
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I received my $24.51 TGT II from FT today.
Plastic tank is 1.2 mm thick instead of 1.5 like the cheaper ones they sell.
Much cleaner with no burrs.
Pretty much the same other than spares are included and nice TGT 1 box.
Edit: I forgot to say that this one also includes the plastic air reducer tube.
Plastic tank is 1.2 mm thick instead of 1.5 like the cheaper ones they sell.
Much cleaner with no burrs.
Pretty much the same other than spares are included and nice TGT 1 box.
Edit: I forgot to say that this one also includes the plastic air reducer tube.
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I just traded mine to a friend for the un-modified one that I gave him a couple of weeks ago, going to do the same thing to this one. My newest one will just wait for whenever. They still keep that Taifun flavor even after opening them up.
Thank you, I will try this out. Other than the deck being off a little the fit and finish on this Limwell clone is good. It also comes with full spares and the plastic tube.
They sure do. I was lazy, I only did one side. I think it is plenty. And if it will turn out to be too much, who says I can't turn the ring to lower it?
Love it!
Thanks for the tip.
P. S. Remember Taifun GT? Remember if you take all the screws out of it, then you will have a hard time putting them back?
Well, I did take all of the screws and O-Rings out of this one before I cut the air hole. Then washed it really well. And guess what? The positive disk (inside the base) did not move a bit. All the screws went in just the way they came out. I think that is an improvement over the old one. Don't you?
Love it!
Thanks for the tip.
P. S. Remember Taifun GT? Remember if you take all the screws out of it, then you will have a hard time putting them back?
Well, I did take all of the screws and O-Rings out of this one before I cut the air hole. Then washed it really well. And guess what? The positive disk (inside the base) did not move a bit. All the screws went in just the way they came out. I think that is an improvement over the old one. Don't you?
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The $14 - 15 FT TGT II clones are missing the insulator on the bottom end of the 510, easily corrected with a piece of tubing.
Done with the one I traded for, working good.
This one I put in a 2.5 mm ID coil instead of a 3 mm, I don't think I need to say why but I had no problems with the 3.
Just OUTSTANDING!
Done with the one I traded for, working good.
This one I put in a 2.5 mm ID coil instead of a 3 mm, I don't think I need to say why but I had no problems with the 3.
Just OUTSTANDING!
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I used a piece from a TGT1, it's the plastic sleeve the draw tube goes into. It was to big OD so I cut a sliver length wise out of it so now it's a split sleeve I guess.
One can easily be made from the tube of something like the tube inside a squirt bottle, eg. Windex
Tiny thing, must be 2 x 2 mm(OD) or close
Good lord man. You've turned that thing into a beast.
Which GT II clone do you recommend at this point? And perhaps more importantly how do I get it to do THAT?!?
Good lord man. You've turned that thing into a beast.
Which GT II clone do you recommend at this point? And perhaps more importantly how do I get it to do THAT?!?
The wick slots are Dremeled out to 3.5 mm and just a tiny bit lower (I mean tiny) and the air intake holes are now slots made by stacking two cut off wheels and with a Dremel.
This uses high VG and has great flavor.
Most of the clones at FT have a 1.5 mm thick tank but seem to work OK even though the wicks are a bit squished against the inner tank walls.
The $25 FT one has a thinner tank so I would recommend that one even though it;s $10 more.
Check post here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/431876-taifun-gt-discusion-238.html#post15136648
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Imposing on you a bit more here because I would really like to take on this project.
I am a dremel newbie. The only thing I've done so far is drill air holes out on some RDAs. What do you mean 'stacking two cut off wheels'? Is there a bit number you can point me to? Also any pics of the finished product would be most welcome.
Is this the model you were referring to?
$24.51 GT-T V2 RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (5.0mL) - stainless steel + matte PC / 23mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Oh one more thing - do you happen to have a post reference for where I can find info on any oring replacements I need to do on the clone?
Imposing on you a bit more here because I would really like to take on this project.
I am a dremel newbie. The only thing I've done so far is drill air holes out on some RDAs. What do you mean 'stacking two cut off wheels'? Is there a bit number you can point me to? Also any pics of the finished product would be most welcome.
Is this the model you were referring to?
$24.51 GT-T V2 RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (5.0mL) - stainless steel + matte PC / 23mm diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Oh one more thing - do you happen to have a post reference for where I can find info on any oring replacements I need to do on the clone?
Yes that's the suggested clone.
Stacked cut off wheels, I put two wheels on the arbor to achieve the width of the cut.
All the orings are the same size as TGT I with the exception of AC ring (18 x 1 mm) and the glass/plastic tank ends (20 x 1 mm)
Here's the rest:
12 x 1 mm on the chamber cap.
11 x 1 mm or 12 x 1 mm under the sliding sleeve.
4 x 1 on the end of the chimney (fill line).
2 x 1 mm under the 510 screw's head.(optional)
5 x 1.5 mm goes on the drip tip
Note that the wheels in the video appear thicker to me so two may be too wide a cut. Mine are from Harbor Freight, the Dremel style rotary tool too.
Not bad for $24
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