Tank carto matchup question

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the_vape_nerd

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I've recently bought a dual coil cartomizer tank from pure smoker.

Dual Coil 510 Tank

The problem I'm having is that my 3.7v device (a Legacy) also bought from pure smoker isn't really able to push the dual coil cartomizer to it's real potential. After some reading here, I understand why it can't do it. My solution to this is to go with say a single coil flanged carto of either the 1.5 or 1.7 ohm variety sold by Hoosier's ecig supply. See below for link.

Pre Punched Replacement tank cartomizers

The question I have is will the single coil variety work in the tank I bought?

Also, if any of you have any report on the 3-hole variety and whether that works well or causes flooding, I'd appreciate some input on that as well.

Thanks in advance to everyone who responds.
 

TravTech

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Yes they should work fine in your tank since they're all of the "XL" length (47mm).

As far as the number of holes goes, it depends on the juice you're using. I usually stick to around 50/50 PG/VG up to full VG (thick) juices. For those the 3 hole works just fine. For (thin) juices that are pretty high in PG, you may want to try the single hole to prevent flooding.

It is a little hit and miss though sometimes, as some vendors tend to thin their "Pure VG" juices with things like alcohol or distilled water. So the performance can be dependant upon individual juice / vendor.
 

the_vape_nerd

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Trav thanks so much for your help here. I'm using mainly 70/30 or 60/40 PG/VG from BWB or Vermillion River. I do order from Copper Creek sometimes though and I think it's 50/50 from them. The one juice I've tried on the cartos that came with the tank, the hole was too small so i ended up widening it with a nail. That was applewood 70/30.
 

donnah

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Crystalclearvaping.com sells the xl boge cartos that will fit in your dc tank. You can get them as single packs of either 2 or 3ohm. Since you are using a 3.7 device, the 2ohms will work better if you want more "kick". Or you can buy them in a 15 carto deal that gives you 3 packs of 5. Good cust service, great prices, free shipping and you're given an option to pick free drip tips with your order. :)

Here is another option, though I've never ordered from them. Surevapes has the xl single coil boge that are long enough to fit also. they are on sale for $5.50 per pack and from what I see, free shipping also. This deal was on Pbusardo's site.

CCV is a very respected dealer. I have really enjoyed my xl boge cartos, I punch one hole with a hammer and long, sharp screw, them I condom fill it, then I put it in a tank and fill the tank. They work and wick perfectly for me. The first hour or so I use it, I may have to take a few "dry pulls" (giving quick sucks on the carto without firing the device) to get it wicking, but after that, they've been working fine. After 2 months, I've not had a single instance of flooding or any dry, burnt hits. Only one of the cartos needed the dry pulls to help it start wicking.

It's also a good idea to have a cheap multimeter to meter your cartos before you even punch them, that ensures your carto is the right ohms and not shorted out or a dud. You can get a cheap digital multimeter at walmart.
 

the_vape_nerd

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Crystalclearvaping.com sells the xl boge cartos that will fit in your dc tank. You can get them as single packs of either 2 or 3ohm. Since you are using a 3.7 device, the 2ohms will work better if you want more "kick". Or you can buy them in a 15 carto deal that gives you 3 packs of 5. Good cust service, great prices, free shipping and you're given an option to pick free drip tips with your order. :)

Here is another option, though I've never ordered from them. Surevapes has the xl single coil boge that are long enough to fit also. they are on sale for $5.50 per pack and from what I see, free shipping also. This deal was on Pbusardo's site.

CCV is a very respected dealer. I have really enjoyed my xl boge cartos, I punch one hole with a hammer and long, sharp screw, them I condom fill it, then I put it in a tank and fill the tank. They work and wick perfectly for me. The first hour or so I use it, I may have to take a few "dry pulls" (giving quick sucks on the carto without firing the device) to get it wicking, but after that, they've been working fine. After 2 months, I've not had a single instance of flooding or any dry, burnt hits. Only one of the cartos needed the dry pulls to help it start wicking.

It's also a good idea to have a cheap multimeter to meter your cartos before you even punch them, that ensures your carto is the right ohms and not shorted out or a dud. You can get a cheap digital multimeter at walmart.

Donna, thanks for this. And others above thanks also.

Let me ask you if 2 ohm works well would 1.5 or 1.7ohm work even better?

Also, I've seen pbusardo notch his cartos, he puts two thick notches in there with a rotary tool. If 3 holes floods a carto, what does this notching do?? I'd rather not have to do any of my own punching or notching unless absolutely necessary.

Another thing I wonder about is the bottom flange. Is that necessary? I think what I have is a BUD tank (see link above), it does have the little shelf to meet up with the flange.
 

donnah

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No, the flange isn't necessary. Punched cartos are more expensive than nonpunched cartos. And the holes in the prepunched cartos are very small... too small I've heard. punching cartos is very easy with a hammer and nail. I mark on my carto where I want the hole to be punched (I leave the condom on) then I take my hammer, a long, sharp screw and a dish towel and go out to my back porch where I have some brick steps. I lay down the dish towel. I place the carto on the dish towel, fitting it into a groove where the bricks are motored together. Place the screw on the mark, hold the carto steady and snug in the groove and a couple whacks gives a good hole. If I can do it, anyone can LOL.

I used to use the 1.7 ohm cartos.. they are made by smoktech and some call them the resurrector. CCV sells them. BUT, I found that they tended to flood rather easily. Plus, the last few that I used kept going up in resistance. They would start out at the right resistance, but would keep going up till they quit working. Plus there was a flooding issue. I use vv devices so I quit buying the 1.7. As far as 1.5 ohm cartos, I don't know of anyone who sells them in a xl length, able to work in the dc tanks. 2ohms is a good all around resistance for 3.7 devices. As far as lower resistance working "better".. they may be "hotter" but they are reputed to not last as long (life wise) Plus, the lower the resistance, the harder it is on your batts in you device.

I found it tedious to keep trying to match cartos to what I wanted in a good vape.. I finally got into vv devices so I didn't have to do that. It sounds like you are wanting to play around with voltage and the only way to easily do that is a vv device.
 
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markfm

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What works for punching or slotting depends on both the eliquid thickness and the carto fill (how much, how tight).

I use a fairly thin DIY, but in a very tightly packed 801 fusion carto. For them, either a single pretty large slot or two pretty large punches works fine.

I'm another one who is big on punching your own cartos. It truly is fast, saves $ over any decent amount of time, and lets you pick what you want for a carto. The hub punch I posted over in PIF, or the new wooden one posted recently, are both low cost, should get you to reproducible results.

(That's a "dirty secret" on buying pre-punched -- there has been some variability seen in products, a given vendor's pre-punched may be great for a while, then someone hits a bad batch. Doing my own, I turn the punch screw two full turns, have never had an issue with a carto where it flooded because the punch hole was too deep, nor had to widen the hole due to it being too small.)

As to how low a resistance is okay, depends on your PV. I'm running a 1.5 ohm Cisco atty on a 3.7V bottom feed box mod, it is absolutely fine, but then again the device has a large 18650 protected cell (large meaning I use 2600 and 3100 mAh batteries, which even in ICR means OK to use at over 5A draw, and I'm pulling under 3A, typically 2.5A, even on a new battery; protected ICR instead of IMR because I do like the short circuit protection, and I also like the over and under voltage protections).
 
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TravTech

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I've got one of these for when I have to punch something. "Tiny Mite" Carto Punch V-2

But I prefer not having to in the first place since punching can mis-shape the carto. I've had trouble in the past fitting them into tanks that had metal end caps.

I've had really good consistent luck with Hoosier's so far. The 3 hole may be a bit much for anything below 50/50 PG/VG juice. I've been using mostly 50% VG or higher lately with the 3 small holes.
 

markfm

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The metal hub I use in my DIY punch keeps the carto from deforming much, since it surrounds the carto body in an aluminum cylinder just slightly wider than the carto exterior, and the set screw hole is dead center on the middle of the cavity the carto sits in, so the screw hits the wall cleanly, perpendicular. Tiny Mite does look cool, though :)
 

DaveP

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Don at BWB recommends a LR drip atty for the best flavor from his juices. It's what he uses to test batches.

Some of Don's juices are higher VG mixes such as Malty Toffee and Malty at 70vg/pg30. The rest are 70pg/30vg. That info used to be on his home page. Malty Toffee needs an atty that can wick it ... it's thick. Experimentation is about the only way to find out unless someone has already done that and posted the results.

Here's a short thread about BWB mixes. Don (Dkrom68) steps in on the last post about where the mix ratios are found on his page.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/backwoods-brew/238242-pg-vg-ratio.html#post4525998

I've gravitated to mostly 100% PG juices and those work well with standard Boge cartos and with the Smoketech DCT 1.5 single hole tanks. It's an experimentation process at best.
 
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the_vape_nerd

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The metal hub I use in my DIY punch keeps the carto from deforming much, since it surrounds the carto body in an aluminum cylinder just slightly wider than the carto exterior, and the set screw hole is dead center on the middle of the cavity the carto sits in, so the screw hits the wall cleanly, perpendicular. Tiny Mite does look cool, though :)

say markfm you have a link to that hub about carto punching?
 

the_vape_nerd

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Don at BWB recommends a LR drip atty for the best flavor from his juices. It's what he uses to test batches.

Some of Don's juices are higher VG mixes such as Malty Toffee and Malty at 70vg/pg30. The rest are 70pg/30vg. That info used to be on his home page. Malty Toffee needs an atty that can wick it ... it's thick. Experimentation is about the only way to find out unless someone has already done that and posted the results.

Here's a short thread about BWB mixes. Don (Dkrom68) steps in on the last post about where the mix ratios are found on his page.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/backwoods-brew/238242-pg-vg-ratio.html#post4525998

I've gravitated to mostly 100% PG juices and those work well with standard Boge cartos and with the Smoketech DCT 1.5 single hole tanks. It's an experimentation process at best.

I vape a lot of BWB juice so thanks for this. I've experimented quite a bit with dripping I guess but the truth is, I just hate it. I guess I'm too lazy to be bothering with the constant fooling with an atomizer, redripping etc. And to me, the taste is no different. I know that don swears by a LR atomizer and he has high respect in my book, but I'm just not going to drip. That's why I don't buy his malty/malty toffee.

Back to the tank issue. I'm about to go ahead and buy a few of the hoosier cartos. Given that I typically stick to thinner juices 70/30 or 60/40, is it the collective opinion that a 3 hole would flood? I will probably order the one hole and get a single 3 hole since hoosier sells them individually. Just trying to get an idea. Thanks again. You people are great.
 

TravTech

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The metal hub I use in my DIY punch keeps the carto from deforming much, since it surrounds the carto body in an aluminum cylinder just slightly wider than the carto exterior, and the set screw hole is dead center on the middle of the cavity the carto sits in, so the screw hits the wall cleanly, perpendicular. Tiny Mite does look cool, though :)

That's how the Tiny Mite works too. It's a cylinder which helps keep from deforming. The screw part is more like a hardened pin with a backstop instead of a screw. So the hole you make won't get bigger as you turn. It just gives a good solid pop as it breaks through.
 

markfm

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Here's the "DIY": http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/pay-forward-pif/272989-diy-carto-punch.html
$5 drillspot hub, free shipping. You need a 1/8" allen wrench to pop out the set screw in it (or carry it into any HW store and just ask -- it's a 1-time use of the wrench)

I picked up a 25 box of the screws, still have some. Had no clue that the screws would last a really long time, have set up several people with them.

Not as sexy as the Tiny Mite, I have to count to 2 turns turning the hex wrench, to get the hole size I want :) Alternately, get the "pop" sound, then 1/2 turn more, for a healthy sized hole that still won't be too deep.
 

the_vape_nerd

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Here's the "DIY": http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/pay-forward-pif/272989-diy-carto-punch.html
$5 drillspot hub, free shipping. You need a 1/8" allen wrench to pop out the set screw in it (or carry it into any HW store and just ask -- it's a 1-time use of the wrench)

I picked up a 25 box of the screws, still have some. Had no clue that the screws would last a really long time, have set up several people with them.

Not as sexy as the Tiny Mite, I have to count to 2 turns turning the hex wrench, to get the hole size I want :) Alternately, get the "pop" sound, then 1/2 turn more, for a healthy sized hole that still won't be too deep.

That actually sounds easier to me than the block of wood one we read about last week. I wonder if I couldn't just walk into a lowe's and get all this. The hub seems more or less the crucial piece here. Thanks for your help. Definitely going to give this a try over the weekend.
 

markfm

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The hub from drillspot is an oddball item (a local Grainger may carry it -- pretty sure when I get them from drillspot they actually get shipped by Grainger).

The screw is truly specialty. That 1/4-20 sheet metal is a weird size (though works marvelously), I spent hours poking around before finding them, and did spend a lot of time in Lowes and HD. I'm far too lazy to just get a 1/4-20 bolt and grind it down, and the closest wood screw is still not a proper fit, threads don't quite match the 1/4-20 pattern.
 
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