Tank creating short?
- Thread starter Mden89
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Screw in a new coil or adjust your homemade coil so it cannot touch anything except the 2 rebuild posts.
1st - Check your pin. Most have a center pin that's NOT spring loaded. If the pin sits too flush, chances are it's not a short - what RTA is it if I may ask - and try backing the pin out a little bit WITHOUT ruining your build.
2nd - Check for debris OR metal shards - remember, not all parts - especially threaded parts - are created equal. IF anything comes in contact with the positive center pin (+) and also makes contact with anything OUTSIDE of that pin (-) you will short.
3rd - [SEE 2] - Check for wire clippings inside the tank / build area / chamber. Also make sure your clipped / twisted off leads aren't poking out from underneath the screw - although uncommon, may still pose and issue.
4th - Check the insulator surrounding the positive pin / post. If it's melted, cracked, chipped, warped, or discolored - replace it.
5th - Check the space of your coil from your build deck - if it's questionable - raise it - get it away from the other screws, posts, etc.
3, 4, and 5 are the most common symptoms. 1 is frequent and 2 is rare although still possible. If all those come up clear - then depending on build (2+ coils) try spreading your coils away from each other - this has killed a lot of my dual coil builds in my Kayfun / Kayfun style atomizers. Also leads to wires getting too hot, breaking, and melting my insulators. Hope you get it squared away. The easiest way to spot 3 and 4 - remove wick and dry fire it. If you see sparks or see arcing inside the chamber - rinse it out with water and if that doesn't clear the clipped wire, try pulling the wire out with tweezers (or a magnet).
2nd - Check for debris OR metal shards - remember, not all parts - especially threaded parts - are created equal. IF anything comes in contact with the positive center pin (+) and also makes contact with anything OUTSIDE of that pin (-) you will short.
3rd - [SEE 2] - Check for wire clippings inside the tank / build area / chamber. Also make sure your clipped / twisted off leads aren't poking out from underneath the screw - although uncommon, may still pose and issue.
4th - Check the insulator surrounding the positive pin / post. If it's melted, cracked, chipped, warped, or discolored - replace it.
5th - Check the space of your coil from your build deck - if it's questionable - raise it - get it away from the other screws, posts, etc.
3, 4, and 5 are the most common symptoms. 1 is frequent and 2 is rare although still possible. If all those come up clear - then depending on build (2+ coils) try spreading your coils away from each other - this has killed a lot of my dual coil builds in my Kayfun / Kayfun style atomizers. Also leads to wires getting too hot, breaking, and melting my insulators. Hope you get it squared away. The easiest way to spot 3 and 4 - remove wick and dry fire it. If you see sparks or see arcing inside the chamber - rinse it out with water and if that doesn't clear the clipped wire, try pulling the wire out with tweezers (or a magnet).
The ST Mini is prone to short from cut leads. There is not much clearance between the chimney base section and the posts. And seeing as the leads are always cut on the outside of the posts, it's easy to short to the chimney if left to long.
Not that that ever happened to me or anything......
If you are using the RBA Section, make sure the Coil isn't sitting too High above the Screw Terminals.
If it is, it can make contact with the Barrel Cover of the RBA Section. Or the Center Air Tube when you screw the Tank on.
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I always roll a little saugage of cotton the size of the coil wick and lay it over the coil and leave tine bit in the wick holes and this gives me a little more
juice on my coil and also acts as an insulator against the coil touching anything.
I get good flavor and is a little insurance against dry hits because of the extra cotton
with juice----and so I have an inside coilwick and an outside coil wick both wet and so
don't get a dry hit.
juice on my coil and also acts as an insulator against the coil touching anything.
I get good flavor and is a little insurance against dry hits because of the extra cotton
with juice----and so I have an inside coilwick and an outside coil wick both wet and so
don't get a dry hit.
The ST Mini is prone to short from cut leads. There is not much clearance between the chimney base section and the posts. And seeing as the leads are always cut on the outside of the posts, it's easy to short to the chimney if left to long.
Not that that ever happened to me or anything......
Good to know if I'm going to answer posts about Subtanks, thank you
For me, its the Focloud, lol! The inside of that chimney is quite tiny. Only atty I've popped coils in, and let's say, its been more than once!
Believe it or not everyone, it had nothing to do with the leads. the coil itself was touching the down-stem piece on the tank. The mini does not have two different stem pieces like the regular subtank, so ill have to remember this in the future. I had to give the coils a good press down. Looks like i cant build coils thicker/wider than 4mm ID!
I kinda though that it might be the Coil Touching the Tube. Because I ran into the Exact Same thing you did when I got my 1st Subtank.
Glad you got to the Bottom of things. And that it Wasn't something that would have to be Returned or Replaced.
I only had to take the damn thing apart about 7 or 8 times to figure it out
Don't feel Bad.
I did mine about 10 Times. And was Starting to put it Back in the Box for the RMA when it Dawned on me what might be Going on.
Because after I Cleaned it, and was putting it in the Box, I had left the RBA cover off by Accident. And that is when I saw how far the Center Tube was sticking into the RBA Barrel.
LOL
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