Ahh, I just right click and click "save as". Could be different web browsers or OS.
Tech support AREA ! POST HERE FOR TECH SUPPORT PLEASE !!!
- Thread starter BuzzKill
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What messes people up is that the "Right click and save" line right above the form is itself a hyperlink, to scribd. I look at it, think "Oh, click this link, then right click and do a "Save As" "
I use Scribd all the time for old military docs, you either have to upload a doc for free 24 hour access, or pay. Couldn't a copy of the RMA form just be stickied here on the forum?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2
All they need to do is delete the hyperlink, and change the text to read "Right click on the image below and select Save As to save a copy of the form (jpeg file) to your computer."
I just received my VVPV. While looking it over, I noticed the pot. wheel was scraping the side of the top cover while adjusting. Taking a closer look, the wheel can be pushed from side to side (towards the top cap, towards the button) and also feels loose(torque) compared to my buzz. Wanted to know if that is something I could easily fix or should I send it in?
Also, if I RMA'd it, should I send just the device with no batteries, no dripper bottle??
Also, if I RMA'd it, should I send just the device with no batteries, no dripper bottle??
Wheel on my VVPV moves much easier than on the BP, but due to its location I've never noticed accidental voltage changes a problem. Looser than BP is actually good to me, as it is a tight working space
Likewise you can nudge it back and forth slightly, towards the fire button or the connector, but I haven't seen it get any looser or anything over time, so you're likely fine there too.
Likewise you can nudge it back and forth slightly, towards the fire button or the connector, but I haven't seen it get any looser or anything over time, so you're likely fine there too.
The pot is designed to be looser on the VVPV , the placement allows this and makes it easier to adjust, it will move slightly back and forth in the slot as well , this is also by design.
Hi sad day, I seem to have an internal short. I my tube started heating up like crazy so I yanked the batteries
. Now when I go to put the bats back in I can hear the sparking. I haven't taken the top cap off yet to see if it's a juice issue but any other ideas that I can look at when I get home.
Thank you
Paul
. Now when I go to put the bats back in I can hear the sparking. I haven't taken the top cap off yet to see if it's a juice issue but any other ideas that I can look at when I get home.
Thank you
Paul
Damn , did it get dropped in water ?? this is not normal, GOOD that you pulled the batts , never leave them in if they get warm . best to send it in to us to take a look at it !.
Nope not dropped in water at all was holding on to it and it started to get real warm-hot. I'll do. A rma when I get home and send it in
Paul
OK DO NOT put the batts back in it !! , we will analyze the failure on this one closely ! I have had the blocking diode go bad on one other unit and it caused the PCB to burn up but opened up very quickly , I need to see if this has the same failure. the design is intended to go to an OPEN condition ( no short ) quickly in case of a failure like this .
The BP wasn't working so I opened the bottom cap and found this white stuff insideIt's splattered and then mounted all around the red cable.
I don't know what it is. What's wrong with it?
That is the super glue we use to keep the switch in place it is normal !
Hi guys,
My buzz pro is in my pocket all day and it is taking a beating but still looks brand new. I'm splitting wood, logging, and hauling off scrap on the side of my job. I have snapped tank cart cylinders (metal part) off from the screw. Other than the electrical tape over the switch i mentioned (works fine now), My cartomizers seem to not work unless i put my hand on the top and push down and to one side. I wiggle it around and listen for the pop and sizzle. It seems to help with i loosin the screw inside but i duno, it may not do nothing.
Can someone explain to me the center post screw and how i can make it get better contact with the cart, incase that is my problem. My center post screw is rounded and the unit always shows blue light, i think it's always working because when i adjust the cart it sizzles again.
Thanks xD
Edit: it may help to know i keep a joye 510 mega cart with me and never fails, always works when i have this problem so i think its center post from china (smok tek)
My buzz pro is in my pocket all day and it is taking a beating but still looks brand new. I'm splitting wood, logging, and hauling off scrap on the side of my job. I have snapped tank cart cylinders (metal part) off from the screw. Other than the electrical tape over the switch i mentioned (works fine now), My cartomizers seem to not work unless i put my hand on the top and push down and to one side. I wiggle it around and listen for the pop and sizzle. It seems to help with i loosin the screw inside but i duno, it may not do nothing.
Can someone explain to me the center post screw and how i can make it get better contact with the cart, incase that is my problem. My center post screw is rounded and the unit always shows blue light, i think it's always working because when i adjust the cart it sizzles again.
Thanks xD
Edit: it may help to know i keep a joye 510 mega cart with me and never fails, always works when i have this problem so i think its center post from china (smok tek)
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The BP is pretty tough but it's possible that the head of your top screw may be getting worn down some. You could pick up a tiny o-ring to put under the top cap screw and that might raise it up enough to make good contact. Alternatively, you could get a 510 to 510 adapter. Here's a pic of the top cap parts, the metal sleeve goes up thru the bottom (the red wire ring terminal screws into it) o-ring, washer, and top screw.
Thanks for showing assembly. Does it not raise the post any by loosening the top screw? I just assumed it did.
You need to add a little plastic washer or oring, because otherwise the screw will just push down again -- the screw actually screws into that brass T-shaped piece in Bov's picture. The flange part of that brass piece is on the underside of the top cap, is what has the positive terminal inside the BP screwed into it.
And loosening the screw without putting another washer or o ring under it would allow juice dribble to get under the top cap.
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