Temp control issues.

[Sally_]

A couple months ago I got an Evic VT and some VapeOnly nickel coils for my Atlantis. They were okay, but I wasn't thrilled. I tried the Triton/Atlantis nickel coils and after some trial and error with the settings I had the best vaping experience since I started. I was running 520 degrees at around 30-35 watts, the flavor/vapor was perfect. Then after a couple weeks my VT died out of the blue (a little over a month after I got it), unfortunately the site I ordered from has a no return policy so I was SOL.

I decided to go with my second choice and ordered a Smok X Cube 2, it seemed okay at first but my coil burned, I just thought it was dead. I primed another, lowered the settings at first and gradually raised the temp to 500 (normal). Very little flavor, then it tasted off, I checked the coil and found a burned spot. I chucked it and started over, primed it well this time with a higher pg mix to help it wick, lowered settings, switched to soft, and slowly raised temp. Same thing little flavor then it went funky, I checked it and it was burned. Even tried one of the VapeOnly with the holes wide open, still the same thing.

I decided to get a Evic VTC mini, started with a new coil primed it well, been gradually bumping temp (at 470), having the same issues flavor wise, keep checking but it isn't burned. Anyone have any suggestions for a fix? Thinking of maybe getting a Morph tank or SauceCode BXDC tank to try other coils if I can't get this working.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

A couple months ago I got an Evic VT and some VapeOnly nickel coils for my Atlantis. They were okay, but I wasn't thrilled. I tried the Triton/Atlantis nickel coils and after some trial and error with the settings I had the best vaping experience since I started. I was running 520 degrees at around 30-35 watts, the flavor/vapor was perfect. Then after a couple weeks my VT died out of the blue (a little over a month after I got it), unfortunately the site I ordered from has a no return policy so I was SOL.

I decided to go with my second choice and ordered a Smok X Cube 2, it seemed okay at first but my coil burned, I just thought it was dead. I primed another, lowered the settings at first and gradually raised the temp to 500 (normal). Very little flavor, then it tasted off, I checked the coil and found a burned spot. I chucked it and started over, primed it well this time with a higher pg mix to help it wick, lowered settings, switched to soft, and slowly raised temp. Same thing little flavor then it went funky, I checked it and it was burned. Even tried one of the VapeOnly with the holes wide open, still the same thing.

I decided to get a Evic VTC mini, started with a new coil primed it well, been gradually bumping temp (at 470), having the same issues flavor wise, keep checking but it isn't burned. Anyone have any suggestions for a fix? Thinking of maybe getting a Morph tank or SauceCode BXDC tank to try other coils if I can't get this working.

Ok my thoughts. Those black spots may not be burnt coil. Those black spots have a high possibility of being gunked up ejuice that accumulated over time. Does it taste like burnt nasty ejuice? If it does, then you may need to dry burn all the gunk off and try again. This has happened to me on numerous occasions and someone told me that it's the possibility that the coil is not heating up enough to burn off the ejuice fast enough. So try dry burning the coils for about a whole 10s and blowing through the air intake and then try again. Would be a shame if you tossed all those coils after spending money on them and they still work.

 

[Rockwell222]

I would not say dry burn the coil because people are going to get the wrong idea and think they can dry burn nickel coils. I understand what your saying I think by just leaving the mod in TC with whatever juice is in the coil and firing it while blowing into the tank to get some gunk off. I've done this multiple times but very rarely would it remove the gunk, I did it to get a flooded coil to become unflooded. It seems to me if you have gunk buildup then you are kinda stuck with tank situations especially in premade coils. If it's a rta I can pick small amounts of buildup off the coil with tweezers. How long do you use the coil til you look and notice these spots and what kind of juice?

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

I would not say dry burn the coil because people are going to get the wrong idea and think they can dry burn nickel coils. I understand what your saying I think by just leaving the mod in TC with whatever juice is in the coil and firing it while blowing into the tank to get some gunk off. I've done this multiple times but very rarely would it remove the gunk, I did it to get a flooded coil to become unflooded. It seems to me if you have gunk buildup then you are kinda stuck with tank situations especially in premade coils. If it's a rta I can pick small amounts of buildup off the coil with tweezers. How long do you use the coil til you look and notice these spots and what kind of juice?

You're right I don't necessarily mean dry burn to hell but, that's a lot of money to be throwing away if the coils are salvageable. Normally how I would go about cleaning these is to take out the wick, and some say use a toothbrush to brush off the coils, however if it is premade, you have no choice but to "dry burn" (what I mean is just press the fire button with juice still in the tank) and blow air through the intake holes in order to not get the bad vapor into your lungs.

All in all, please firstly try to get the black gunk off of the coils. If that does not work, then you will be forced to find new coil heads.

 

[GeorgeS]

This is where folks soak the factory/premade atomizers in boiling water, alcohol and in a pinch - used denture cleaner.

Any excessive "burning" on these atomizers is going to burn the WICK which will introduce a nasty burnt taste forever more until the cartridge is rebuilt or a new one installed.

Personally, I always used boiling water.

 

[BobC]

One other point to consider, when TC is not reliable, the usual culprit is poor connections on the unit, disabling the chip to reliably read resistance levels on the atty, which can result in burnt coils

 

[Sally_]

The burning was on the cotton, there was no gunk on the coils, the coil itself still looked pristine.

One other point to consider, when TC is not reliable, the usual culprit is poor connections on the unit, disabling the chip to reliably read resistance levels on the atty, which can result in burnt coils

Do you mean an issue with the mod itself? Mentioning poor connection, I'm wondering if the issue for me is with the tank bases. They seem to shift a little when screwed in on both the VTC and the X Cube. The threads seemed to be off, but when I tried screwing them in on a 510 heatsink base the threads seemed fine, no wobbling. I've tried two or three different Atlantis bases that I have, all have the same issue, could that be a factor?

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

If it's the cotton turning black, there could be the possibility of what I mentioned earlier happening, except between the wicking and where the juice is coming from. I've had this happen on my Ni200 coils with my iStick 40w. Now I don't know if this is something you want to try, but if you have a new coil head around, try firing with the maximum temperature maxed out. If the vape is too hot well, this solution may not work for you. The way temp control works normally, is there is a pulse sent from the positive to negative connection via the wire. Once this happens, the mod will regulate after its findings to set the temperature control method programmed in the chip of the mod.

And just a reiteration of what I stated, when the coil head constantly ramps up from room temperature, it does not completely reach peak temperature automatically, and will throttle itself automatically. If you had an RDA and some Ni200 you could test this by putting on a coil and wicking it, and without juice firing the device. However, if you're up for trying to check to see if the temperature is too low, try setting the device to maximum temperature (basically unregulated) and give it a go.

 

[BobC]

The burning was on the cotton, there was no gunk on the coils, the coil itself still looked pristine.
Do you mean an issue with the mod itself? Mentioning poor connection, I'm wondering if the issue for me is with the tank bases. They seem to shift a little when screwed in on both the VTC and the X Cube. The threads seemed to be off, but when I tried screwing them in on a 510 heatsink base the threads seemed fine, no wobbling. I've tried two or three different Atlantis bases that I have, all have the same issue, could that be a factor?

Yes Sally, if the atty is not making a solid connection to the mod, the board cannot reliably read the coil resistance, thus provides too much power to the coil, burning the cotton

 

[Sally_]

Question, I got a 510 heatsink base I got because the tank was getting hot, it didn't seem to help with that so I stopped using it. As I mentioned I screwed the tank on it to see if the thread were messed up, the tank sets solid on it.

So the question is, if I used that to make a better connection, would it help or could it interfere with the temp control?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Question, I got a 510 heatsink base I got because the tank was getting hot, it didn't seem to help with that so I stopped using it. As I mentioned I screwed the tank on it to see if the thread were messed up, the tank sets solid on it.

So the question is, if I used that to make a better connection, would it help or could it interfere with the temp control?

In theory it will just add to the static resistance of your setup and make the TC less accurate (unless you can compensate for it on the mod). In practice, I used on with an Atlantis for a while and saw no difference in TC performance. If it is a decent one then it will probably be fine!

 

[nmeuvdast8]

I have had the same problem with the X Cube 2. Lots of clouds with very little to no flavor at all. To get the most of the X Cube 2, you may need to adjust the TCoR for your specified wire type (Ni200, Ti, SS). And it doesnt stop there, you also need to adjust the Strength and Temperature. I have tried using all thre wire types for X Cube 2's temp control and these were some of the settings that worked for me....

Ti - TCoR = 0.00500 / Temp = 420F / Strength = Min to Soft (depending on how I setup the AFC on my TFV4)

SS - TCoR = 0.00075 / Temp = 400F / Strenth = same as Ti

Ni200 - never got to vape at all. For some reason, the Ni200 I've been using keeps on breaking after a few hits. Its a Gauge 28 Ni200 wire which I was able to use on my VTC Mini. Most likely its because of the TCoR which I never had the chance to chage since Ni200 was the first coil Ive tested with the X Cube 2 and wasnt aware of the adjustable TCoR.

As for the VTC Mini, for Ti, I can never get the perfect settings to produce a great vapor without dry hits. So, Ive stopped using Ti. For Ni200, I usually set it at 420F, around 25-30w.

Currently, I have settled with the X Cube 2 using SS. I get the flavor and clouds I want, its easier to work with, and you can use it both at Power and Temp Control mode.

Sent from my SM-T705 using Tapatalk

 

[Sally_]

In theory it will just add to the static resistance of your setup and make the TC less accurate (unless you can compensate for it on the mod). In practice, I used on with an Atlantis for a while and saw no difference in TC performance. If it is a decent one then it will probably be fine!

This is what I have. https://www.fasttech.com/products/2443403 How would I compensate for it on a mod?

I have had the same problem with the X Cube 2. Lots of clouds with very little to no flavor at all. To get the most of the X Cube 2, you may need to adjust the TCoR for your specified wire type (Ni200, Ti, SS). And it doesnt stop there, you also need to adjust the Strength and Temperature. I have tried using all thre wire types for X Cube 2's temp control and these were some of the settings that worked for me....

Ti - TCoR = 0.00500 / Temp = 420F / Strength = Min to Soft (depending on how I setup the AFC on my TFV4)

SS - TCoR = 0.00075 / Temp = 400F / Strenth = same as Ti

Ni200 - never got to vape at all. For some reason, the Ni200 I've been using keeps on breaking after a few hits. Its a Gauge 28 Ni200 wire which I was able to use on my VTC Mini. Most likely its because of the TCoR which I never had the chance to chage since Ni200 was the first coil Ive tested with the X Cube 2 and wasnt aware of the adjustable TCoR.

As for the VTC Mini, for Ti, I can never get the perfect settings to produce a great vapor without dry hits. So, Ive stopped using Ti. For Ni200, I usually set it at 420F, around 25-30w.

Currently, I have settled with the X Cube 2 using SS. I get the flavor and clouds I want, its easier to work with, and you can use it both at Power and Temp Control mode.

Sent from my SM-T705 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info, unfortunately I only have android and the app kept crashing and I haven't been able to unlock Ti or SS. Hopefully it will come in handy eventually though, I'm curious about SS coils, but haven't really looked into it yet.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

I just tested temperature control on my iStick TC40w and I think you'll be interested to hear what I got. The coil was getting hot enough during operation (had the degrees maxed out at 600f) and cause the wicking to become very stiff after only dropping a small amount of ejuice on it and testing the coil. On my fairly beefier Smok Koopor Plus, the temperature control handled that very same coil just fine, with no "charring," or coil turning black and coil was operating just fine.

I'm kind of coming to the conclusion that these lower wattage devices that boast temperature control aren't very good at it. Seems like in order for temperature control to work fine, it needs 2 batteries or a LiPo. Let's hope I'm wrong, right?

 

[Sally_]

I was a little nervous about going all the way to 600 on my VTC, but I went ahead and bumped it up to 520, to be safe I've been pulling extra juice into the coil by loosing the base and then re-tightening to make sure there is plenty of liquid to the coil. So far the coil has darkened but the cotton seems to be okay. I haven't tried it on the X Cube, kinda want to let sleeping dogs lie for now, but curious to see if I have similar on that mod as you've had with your Kooper.

 

[Sm0keydaBear]

I was a little nervous about going all the way to 600 on my VTC, but I went ahead and bumped it up to 520, to be safe I've been pulling extra juice into the coil by loosing the base and then re-tightening to make sure there is plenty of liquid to the coil. So far the coil has darkened but the cotton seems to be okay. I haven't tried it on the X Cube, kinda want to let sleeping dogs lie for now, but curious to see if I have similar on that mod as you've had with your Kooper.

Yah to be safe I'd say if your coils are turning black, than they're not heating up enough. Be careful when the coils turn black to not let them go too long, or the black gunk will eventually burn and taste like one of the worst flavors you've ever had. I've had this happen to me before on premade coils and there was no way or bringing them back to life no matter how much I cleaned them. The black gunk will eventually stick to the coil if you don't raise the temperature and the coil will be destroyed.

As far as my Koopor Plus and how I tested to see if the coil and/or wicking would turn black, I placed the coil on the deck and tightened it down, wicked the coil, placed some juice in the wicking, and then fired the device as I normally would while blowing air onto the coil. On the iStick TC40w, it was browning very quickly, like sugar caramelizing. On the Koopor Plus, the wicking material did not turn black or even brown.

Another speculation I've had is that you might be able to reduce the number of wraps that you're using on the coil to prevent this from happening as well, although I have not tried it yet.

 

[nmeuvdast8]

I feel your pain using the app on android Sally_. Fortunately for me, my wife has an iOS device. On there I was able to unlock the SS and Ti temp control. Hopefully Smok would sort things out on the Android app.

Tried temp control using TFV4 and was getting dry hits even though we have verified that it works by dry firing the mod with cotton. Turns out, wicking was the problem.

Sent from my SM-T705 using Tapatalk

 

[Sally_]

I feel your pain using the app on android Sally_. Fortunately for me, my wife has an iOS device. On there I was able to unlock the SS and Ti temp control. Hopefully Smok would sort things out on the Android app.

Tried temp control using TFV4 and was getting dry hits even though we have verified that it works by dry firing the mod with cotton. Turns out, wicking was the problem.

Sent from my SM-T705 using Tapatalk

I got a notification that the app had an update, I was able to log in so I went ahead and got the upgrades, just in case if/when the app goes to crap again I have it.

 

[nmeuvdast8]

Thanks for the heads up! Updated the app and now am able to log in without issues!

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