Most of the time when this happens to me I realize I have juice in the connection which causes a resistance spike. I just clean it out with a Q-tip or a rolled up tissue and problem solved.
Most of the time when this happens to me I realize I have juice in the connection which causes a resistance spike. I just clean it out with a Q-tip or a rolled up tissue and problem solved.
I have never been a fan of locking in the resistance. If you build solid coils it shouldn't be necessary, as your resistance should not be changing. The device locks in the initial read automatically, which is why it is important to connect your atty when the coil is at room temp. Fluctuations after that point are indicative of problems that should be addressed. Forcing the resistance is simply masking a potential problem.
If you want to see what happens when the mod simply uses what resistance it finds, check the djlsbvapes youtube channel for the Sigelei 213 and see his temp control tests. The mod didn't lock in the resistance and read a new resistance every time it fired. Because of this, after three or more hits, its base resistance rose high enough that it got hot enough to burn cotton even though the temperature was set below 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
That is incorrect. It is correct that heating the coil alters the resistance and that is how the chip determines the temperature, but, the chip gets it initial reading the first time the device is activated. This again is why it is important to get an accurate initial reading. Once the chip gets it's initial reading it should not change, hence, there should be no need to lock the resistance. The display of whatever mod you are using should not be displaying the resistance fluctuations it needs to determine the temperature, it should only be displaying the initial resistance it read.That's not entirely the case. As you vape, the coil will heat. Temp control is basically comparing the change in resistance (from base) to calculate the temperature. A .5 ohm coil that has been used for a couple of toots is not .5 ohms anymore. It could be .6 or higher. By locking the resistance, you're telling the chip what the base resistance should be and the difference is due to the heat still in the coil. This allows it to predict the correct voltage it will need to reach and maintain the temperature you've set.
If you want to see what happens when the mod simply uses what resistance it finds, check the djlsbvapes youtube channel for the Sigelei 213 and see his temp control tests. The mod didn't lock in the resistance and read a new resistance every time it fired. Because of this, after three or more hits, its base resistance rose high enough that it got hot enough to burn cotton even though the temperature was set below 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
... Once the chip gets it's initial reading it should not change, hence, there should be no need to lock the resistance. The display of whatever mod you are using should not be displaying the resistance fluctuations it needs to determine the temperature, it should only be displaying the initial resistance it read.
If the resistance is fluctuating then it is a sign that something is wrong. Locking the resistance is forcing the device to fire a coil that is not working properly.
errr...I have never been a fan of locking in the resistance. If you build solid coils it shouldn't be necessary, as your resistance should not be changing. The device locks in the initial read automatically, which is why it is important to connect your atty when the coil is at room temp. Fluctuations after that point are indicative of problems that should be addressed. Forcing the resistance is simply masking a potential problem.
That is incorrect. It is correct that heating the coil alters the resistance and that is how the chip determines the temperature, but, the chip gets it initial reading the first time the device is activated. This again is why it is important to get an accurate initial reading. Once the chip gets it's initial reading it should not change, hence, there should be no need to lock the resistance. The display of whatever mod you are using should not be displaying the resistance fluctuations it needs to determine the temperature, it should only be displaying the initial resistance it read.
If the resistance is fluctuating then it is a sign that something is wrong. Locking the resistance is forcing the device to fire a coil that is not working properly.
Huh? I have been using TC since it came out and I have NEVER locked my resistance and my resistance doesn't change, unless something is wrong with the coil. Something I wouldn't have seen if I had locked my resistance. Why would you lock your resistance at room temperature? If I connect my SS coil I just built that I know is .5Ω and my mod reads it at .5Ω, why would I, why would anyone, need lock it in? If the coil is connected properly and fires properly it will continue to be .5Ω without locking the resistance in.errr...
Actually you HAVE to lock the resistance at room temperature, otherwise the TC will not handle your coil properly at all, the moment that you vaped, the coil is heated and the resistance value is NOT the same anymore.
Not locking the Ohm, you're pretty much defeating the TC feature.
Huh? I have been using TC since it came out and I have NEVER locked my resistance and my resistance doesn't change, unless something is wrong with the coil. Something I wouldn't have seen if I had locked my resistance. Why would you lock your resistance at room temperature? If I connect my SS coil I just built that I know is .5Ω and my mod reads it at .5Ω, why would I, why would anyone, need lock it in? If the coil is connected properly and fires properly it will continue to be .5Ω without locking the resistance in.
Resistance lock was a fix for a problem that didn't exist. The need for it came from peoples inability to build (and connect) proper Ni coils. It was new to us back then and we were learning as we went. Not to mention they started us off with the worst, most finicky, wire possible in Ni. China just copied it from there and now it is commonplace, but still completely unnecessary.
If any mod makes you lock the resistance, I wouldn't use that mod. It should be smart enough to keep the correct resistance itself and only fluctuate when something is wrong.
From the Evolv website, the ones who brought us TC. Please show where it says you have to use resistance lock. I figure we might as well go straight to the most knowledgeable source from the get go...right.Considering that every TC mod I've used, read about, looked at, have the lock feature and the instructions clearly states to use it...
I'll just put my trust with them (and the many others that explains the "why" you have to lock your resistance) over an anonymous person on the internet....
I think you should read up a bit more on the subject.wow.. you really absolutely don't understand how resistance and metals works I see.
I'll make a note that you're another of the "experts" on here that people need to ignore, even fear the advice that you give.
I have an original DNA40 that doesn't and a newer one that does. I am not sure where Imfallen is getting his info that resistance lock is somehow required for TC, but I think he has seen the error in his ways. I hope so at least.My DNA40 has no resistance lock, and works fine.
I humbly beg you to show us your incomparable understanding of working metals. Please.wow.. you really absolutely don't understand how resistance and metals works I see.
I'll make a note that you're another of the "experts" on here that people need to ignore, even fear the advice that you give.
I humbly beg you to show us your incomparable understanding of working metals. Please.
I see. No knowledge. Just Google. OK, it is much better than nothing.Start here for a quick crash course:
Electrical resistivity and conductivity - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Then here:
Temperature effects on resistance
and here
Temperature Coefficient of Resistance
If you still don't understand it after than, simply stay away from metal and electricity, it'll be safer.
If you do reply after this, I respectfully expect that you'd go with a wannabee "witty" reply to show how smart you believe yourself to be, or will you repeat your previous behavior and go to a single biased and limited source for counterpoint and not be able to provide any valid references when asked for clarification to your claims. This is not an insult, just a observation of how you behaved in another thread and I'm hoping that you might be able to be over that.
I gather that you lack the ability to conceive that me typing the very same information by hand from what I know, 1) would be a waste of my time, 2) would be the same information as per these links.I see. No knowledge. Just Google. OK, it is much better than nothing.