Temp Control questions.

[chopdoc]

Hi yall, I have two of the ipv4's and I started using the temp control about a day ago. I am curious from those who are more experienced with TC's is does the batteries last longer.

The reason I am asking is curiosity. I am vaping at 20 joules with a .05 coil on both mine and they are reading that I am firing at 1.54 volts. Previously I would vape at 20 watts and 3.5 volts.

Also would like to ask about wire size. Does it matter? I bought some Ni200 26 awg and 8 wraps on 3mm vapes at .005 ohms in a kanger subtank mini. While watching youtube video's last night trying to learn a little it seems everyone is using 28 AWG wire. I dont see where it could cause a problem but now instead of the electronics just maintaining wattage, its constantly sensing resistance in temp mode. Will a wrong size wire eventually harm the electronics?

Thanks in advance for peoples time and effort in answering these questions.

 

[Azarias]

My guess why so many people use 28g instead of 26g: it has a higher resistance.
Many people don't like to build with Ni200 because it is so soft.
So one goes for a thicker wire but then the resistance gets smaller.
Especially in dual coil tanks it can be a major PITA to get the coils big enough to work AND fit in the deck.
That's why I use 28g. It's the best compromise for me.
For my dc tanks I want to try 30g next.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Hi yall, I have two of the IPV4's and I started using the temp control about a day ago. I am curious from those who are more experienced with TC's is does the batteries last longer.

The answer is maybe! You know it really depends on what you are vaping on to be honest. I have a0.08ohm coil in a subtank RBA on my SX mini m-class mod at 16J and 400F. Nice warm vape and the batt lasts a long time. I have anothe subtank using the ni coil heads on a dna40 clone that I vape at 500F and 30W or so and that chews the batt pretty quick..

The reason I am asking is curiosity. I am vaping at 20 joules with a .05 coil on both mine and they are reading that I am firing at 1.54 volts. Previously I would vape at 20 watts and 3.5 volts.

So previously means kanthal right? If so you coant be vaping at 20W and 3.5V with a 0.05 ohm coil. 3.5V across 0.05 ohms would result in 245W!!! If you meant 0.5 ohms, that would be 24.5W not 20! Anyway, regardles these calculations using ohms law are not so useful with TC vaping as the resistance of the coil, by definition, changes as the voltage is applied!

Also would like to ask about wire size. Does it matter? I bought some Ni200 26 awg and 8 wraps on 3mm vapes at .005 ohms in a kanger subtank mini. While watching youtube video's last night trying to learn a little it seems everyone is using 28 AWG wire. I dont see where it could cause a problem but now instead of the electronics just maintaining wattage, its constantly sensing resistance in temp mode. Will a wrong size wire eventually harm the electronics?

Thanks in advance for peoples time and effort in answering these questions.

So that build should come in around 0.07-0.08ohms which is low but ok for the IPV4 (I think - certainly ok for the sx mini). Is it really 0.005?? Does the IPV4 even read to 3 decimal places?

Anyway, 28 is a happy medium since you can achieve reasonable resiatnces say in the 0.15 ohm range without a gazillion wraps and having some mechanical strength in the wire. 30 and 32g Ni is thin and soft and difficult to work so you may find people using twisted 30 or 32 or even hybrid wires with Ni twisted with Kanthal. You shouldnt be able to mess up the mod as it will report 'Ohms too low' or similar if you overstep the mark!

Anyway, hope all this helps! Enjoy your TC vaping!

edit: whoops i missed @Azarias post so some of my reply is covered already..

 

[chopdoc]

The answer is maybe! You know it really depends on what you are vaping on to be honest. I have a0.08ohm coil in a subtank RBA on my SX mini m-class mod at 16J and 400F. Nice warm vape and the batt lasts a long time. I have anothe subtank using the ni coil heads on a dna40 clone that I vape at 500F and 30W or so and that chews the batt pretty quick..



So previously means kanthal right? If so you coant be vaping at 20W and 3.5V with a 0.05 ohm coil. 3.5V across 0.05 ohms would result in 245W!!! If you meant 0.5 ohms, that would be 24.5W not 20! Anyway, regardles these calculations using ohms law are not so useful with TC vaping as the resistance of the coil, by definition, changes as the voltage is applied!



So that build should come in around 0.07-0.08ohms which is low but ok for the IPV4 (I think - certainly ok for the sx mini). Is it really 0.005?? Does the IPV4 even read to 3 decimal places?

Anyway, 28 is a happy medium since you can achieve reasonable resiatnces say in the 0.15 ohm range without a gazillion wraps and having some mechanical strength in the wire. 30 and 32g Ni is thin and soft and difficult to work so you may find people using twisted 30 or 32 or even hybrid wires with Ni twisted with Kanthal. You shouldnt be able to mess up the mod as it will report 'Ohms too low' or similar if you overstep the mark!

Anyway, hope all this helps! Enjoy your TC vaping!

edit: whoops i missed @Azerias post so some of my reply is covered already..

Sorry about that, didnt proof read. Previously I was vaping Kanthal coils at .6 ohms, 20 watts and the IPV4 showed it was at 3.5 volts. Presently I am using 26 awg Ni200 at 8 wraps on a 3 mm drill and before using it shows at .09 ohms on my tester. Once juiced up and initially fired it drops to .05 ohms and 1.54 volts and its set at 20 joules at 400 F.

 

[Azarias]

edit: whoops i missed @Azarias post so some of my reply is covered already..

No problem. At least that way I know I wasn't talking BS.

 

[chopdoc]

My guess why so many people use 28g instead of 26g: it has a higher resistance.
Many people don't like to build with Ni200 because it is so soft.
So one goes for a thicker wire but then the resistance gets smaller.
Especially in dual coil tanks it can be a major PITA to get the coils big enough to work AND fit in the deck.
That's why I use 28g. It's the best compromise for me.
For my dc tanks I want to try 30g next.

Went ahead and ordered some 28g Ni200 to give it a try. I am not a sub ohm'er, dont do dual coils and am looking for the best vape possible without going to extremes. I kinda thought .05 was too low but it vapes just fine.

 

[Azarias]

Went ahead and ordered some 28g Ni200 to give it a try. I am not a sub ohm'er, dont do dual coils and am looking for the best vape possible without going to extremes. I kinda thought .05 was too low but it vapes just fine.

With 28g I build a 3.5mmID, 8 wraps coil and reach about .12ohms.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

With 28g I build a 3.5mmID, 8 wraps coil and reach about .12ohms.

yup! Thats a pretty good place to be imho!

 

[chopdoc]

The answer is maybe! You know it really depends on what you are vaping on to be honest. I have a0.08ohm coil in a subtank RBA on my SX mini m-class mod at 16J and 400F. Nice warm vape and the batt lasts a long time. I have anothe subtank using the ni coil heads on a dna40 clone that I vape at 500F and 30W or so and that chews the batt pretty quick..

Vaping the same set up using kanthal .5 ohm coil at 20 watts the batteries would last about 2 days. Yesterday i put fresh batteries in it at about this time, today they were in need of charging so for me, it is using twice as much battery juice instead of the half as much as I expected. But the vape is great and worth it.