temp control really that good?

[LuNar]

I must have been building my nickel coils wrong or something.. I get far better flavor from kanthal. In my Lemo drop I made a space nickel coil ni200 28g I got from vapor dna. Made sure my leads were trapped strongly under the screws, did multiple wicking methods, ect. Set the res, came out to 0.19, that's 10 wraps 3mm id. Starting temp was 330 def f and 18 watts. Very weak vapor and absolutely no flavor. Bumped up the temp to 390 def f and wattage to 21w. More vapor, once again no flavor at all. Bumped up further to 450 deg f and 31 watts. Much more vapor, warm vapor even, still no flavor at all. Not even a little.

Many rebuilds later and different wicking methods It's always the same. No flavor at all. So I put a normal kanthal build in my lemo drop, 1.6 res at 20 watts is great flavor and vapor. Miles better than anything I have done with nickel.

Got a morph tank and made many nickel builds in it's rba section as well, same stuff again, absolutely no flavor no matter what temp and wattage combo I've tried.

I did order some atlantis nickel coils from vaporshark to put in my morph tank so maybe I should just stick with buying my nickel coils for a while. At least until I manage to actually build a successful nickel coil or at least figure out what the hell I'm doing wrong :c. Since I've had nothing but a bad experience I strongly prefer kanthal. I'm still getting a dual 18650 device than do temp control because I haven't completely giving up on it.

 

[AndriaD]

I must have been building my nickel coils wrong or something.. I get far better flavor from kanthal. In my Lemo drop I made a space nickel coil ni200 28g I got from vapor dna. Made sure my leads were trapped strongly under the screws, did multiple wicking methods, ect. Set the res, came out to 0.19, that's 10 wraps 3mm id. Starting temp was 330 def f and 18 watts. Very weak vapor and absolutely no flavor. Bumped up the temp to 390 def f and wattage to 21w. More vapor, once again no flavor at all. Bumped up further to 450 deg f and 31 watts. Much more vapor, warm vapor even, still no flavor at all. Not even a little.

Many rebuilds later and different wicking methods It's always the same. No flavor at all. So I put a normal kanthal build in my lemo drop, 1.6 res at 20 watts is great flavor and vapor. Miles better than anything I have done with nickel.

Got a morph tank and made many nickel builds in it's rba section as well, same stuff again, absolutely no flavor no matter what temp and wattage combo I've tried.

I did order some atlantis nickel coils from vaporshark to put in my morph tank so maybe I should just stick with buying my nickel coils for a while. At least until I manage to actually build a successful nickel coil or at least figure out what the hell I'm doing wrong :c. Since I've had nothing but a bad experience I strongly prefer kanthal. I'm still getting a dual 18650 device than do temp control because I haven't completely giving up on it.

I feel the same about kanthal, after tryng out titanium. Decent vape, but just not much flavor at all. I'll stick with kanthal.

Andria

 

[peterforpats]

to each his own- i am glad they make so many different choices-once i vaped a ni200 coil i realized i could never go back to the kanthal coils(except in an emergency, like not having anything else).kanthal just brings out the metallic taste for me and it gets worse with every drag. like everyone else kanthal was the only material they put in the pre-made coils so it was all i knew- i thought it was fine. then along comes TC and the ni200 coils and only then could i see what i was missing- gone was the metallic taste and instead i could actually taste the flavors in the e-liquid. for me the TC part has made very little difference- i didn't burn my coils before and i never took 10 second drags. what makes the difference is the need for ni200 coils and the lack of vaping a pile of scrap metal. if they came out with a pre-made ni200 coil that worked on my good older devices(say, the sx mini "s" class) i would never have dumped them to switch to TC devices, and now i have turned over my inventory to have only TC mods. the scary part - what will they come out with next that tastes even better and requires another turnover of my mods. chasing great taste can be expensive. at least with vaping i can slowly lessen the nic level and have a real shot at quitting. i suspect most will never quit - i may fall into that category but at least TC and the switch to ni or ti will make the journey taste a whole lot better......

 

[Thedudeabides870]

I built these two coils a week ago on two Tobeco Kayfun V4 Svoe Mesto clones, using Japanese unprocessed cotton, for my 95% VG 0 nic "Macaroon B" juice. The 5% is PG from flavoring, water, a few drops alcohol. B stands for Banana ;-)

The first more densely packed coil is Kanthal 28 AWG with a 1.1 Ohm resistance, operated in WC mode, wattage 8-25 watts on a Mini VF, or on a Mechanical SMPL.

The second looser coil is Tempered Nickel 200 28 AWG with a 0.1 Ohm resistance, operated in TC mode on a Mini VF with a 390-400 deg F limit setpoint; wattage varied from 8 to 25 watts. In all fairness the TC coil was used about twice as often.

There were no dry hits. The taste was great, the vapor perfecto. What's interesting is that the amount of "burning" is still significant in TC mode. The way I interpret this is that the controller can only react to the overall or average resistance of the wire. If one section of the coil is much hotter but other sections much cooler, the overall temperature appears to be cooler than that of the hot spots. The controller can't tell. I have since taken to wind Nickel coils packed together, more like the Kanthal coil here, to try to prevent big variations in the temperature.

Ideas?

I no expert by any means, but after toying with nickel since its infancy, the "burning" spots theory is absolutely correct about nickel. However, unless you completely and thoroughly anneal the nickel, making them contact coils will only create far MORE hotspots and will most definitely burn. Try to space out the wraps more consistently and evenly to avoid this issue

 

[Fernand]

what will they come out with next that tastes even better and requires another turnover of my mods. chasing great taste can be expensive. at least with vaping i can slowly lessen the nic level and have a real shot at quitting. i suspect most will never quit - i may fall into that category but at least TC and the switch to ni or ti will make the journey taste a whole lot better......

For me it was the rebuildables with the huge clouds. First, with even Kangertech mini pro 2s I couldn't take as much nicotine as with the eGo generation. Then I noticed that the cramps and cold legs/feet were related, and when the rebuildables were paired with Japanese "organic" cotton, I could actually do it. Went from 4-6 mg/ml to 2, and then it wasn't hard to go to 0.

I miss it a bit on throat hit and on mental stimulation, but I wasn't getting enough out of it to make up for the circulatory problems. It wasn't a do or die issue at all, more like I like brown leather more than black. Aware of how GOOD nicotine can be, I don't want to go back now. Screw it.

 

[puddinman]

For me TC is only partly about avoiding dry hits. It's more about keeping the vape at my perfect temperature for each juice I like. It's also about extended battery life.

I think it's important to make clear that the wattage you set is largely irrelevant. Your mod in TC mode will never fire much above 20W no matter what you set it at; in fact it will probably stay around 10w or less. As mentioned before, the only thing setting wattage does is set the initial wattage sent to the coil. After that quick burst, TC will quickly throttle the wattage to keep the vape at approximately the set temp. I have set my Evic VT at the lowest (30W) and highest (60W) setting in TC mode and it has made very little difference in vape quality. Perhaps other mods make more of a difference but in reading here, I don't think so.

The important thing in vaping is the temperature the coils reach. TC allows you to consistently hit that temperature (or an approximation thereof) resulting in a smooth consistent vape.

 

[BababooeyHTJ]

It seems to have its pros and cons. I had great luck in my stm. That is a great vape. Its also very good on the KF4 and good on the lemo on a fresh coil. Vapor drops off quickly with any bit of gunk on the coil on most devices.

Never had any luck with dual coil drippers.

 

[Stinkytofus]

3rd day TC'ing

flavor: was better at first but gradually... it tastes the same as kanthal
vapor: less, not as thick, I get a nice fluffy cloud with kanthal

ni200 coils doesn't get hot like my kanthal coil does, maybe because its summer... but it still gets pretty warm, so I dialed down the temperature down to 375F

I might try kanthal tonight again to see how it is

 

[Fernand]

I think it's important to make clear that the wattage you set is largely irrelevant. Your mod in TC mode will never fire much above 20W no matter what you set it at; in fact it will probably stay around 10w or less. As mentioned before, the only thing setting wattage does is set the initial wattage sent to the coil. After that quick burst, TC will quickly throttle the wattage to keep the vape at approximately the set temp.

Disagree. On the KX50D chip used on the Invader Mini and the Mini VF, the wattage setting is important - it determines the tightness of the feedback loop among other things. You can set the wattage low and never even reach the set temp. Or a little higher and have it smoothly and slower oscillate around the setpoint, or set it high and have the system crash test dummy slam into the set temp then tightly hunt around it. It's part of tuning your vape. You don't just draw. The approach, how it comes up to temp, how the liquid sizzles up and down, are all important. We have a lot more control.

I prefer Ti coils for a lot of reasons. With Ti Grade 1 wire the temp has to be set about 90 deg F lower than for Ni 2000, but most mods are handling it OK.

There are some real BS artists selling wire that's been allegedly cleaned without evil chemicals, as if it made a difference, like you wouldn't rinse everything off thoroughly anyway, and a lot of fear-mongering is running to have people buy THEIR wire. Some ARE springier than others. Oh well, it will pass, and Ti wire won't be selling for absurd prices much longer. Metal nano-particles are a big unknown, but as straight toxicity goes, titanium is pretty benign, we consume Titanium Dioxide in food.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

To rephrase then, wattage is not important in TC mode provided you have your wattage set in excess of that require to maintain your desired temp. Currently vaping at 450 degrees F, initial watts set to 100, after reaching 450 watts fired varies from 4 to 15 depending on how hard/fast I draw on the atomizer.

 

[smokewell]

One other thing to consider is the atomizer. I was content with the STm and Lemo 2 until I got an Erlk. Now I find the former tanks to be absolutely useless with Ni200.

 

[LuNar]

I must have been building my nickel coils wrong or something.. I get far better flavor from kanthal. In my Lemo drop I made a space nickel coil ni200 28g I got from vapor dna. Made sure my leads were trapped strongly under the screws, did multiple wicking methods, ect. Set the res, came out to 0.19, that's 10 wraps 3mm id. Starting temp was 330 def f and 18 watts. Very weak vapor and absolutely no flavor. Bumped up the temp to 390 def f and wattage to 21w. More vapor, once again no flavor at all. Bumped up further to 450 deg f and 31 watts. Much more vapor, warm vapor even, still no flavor at all. Not even a little.

Many rebuilds later and different wicking methods It's always the same. No flavor at all. So I put a normal kanthal build in my lemo drop, 1.6 res at 20 watts is great flavor and vapor. Miles better than anything I have done with nickel.

Got a morph tank and made many nickel builds in it's rba section as well, same stuff again, absolutely no flavor no matter what temp and wattage combo I've tried.

I did order some atlantis nickel coils from vaporshark to put in my morph tank so maybe I should just stick with buying my nickel coils for a while. At least until I manage to actually build a successful nickel coil or at least figure out what the hell I'm doing wrong :c. Since I've had nothing but a bad experience I strongly prefer kanthal. I'm still getting a dual 18650 device than do temp control because I haven't completely giving up on it.

Well those Atlantis ni200 BVC coils came in, and they rock lol. Changed out my adapters on my morph tank for the Atlantis, it also needs a smaller black oring to stop the chamber from flooding, switched out the big pin for the small pin. And there I was. Praying this nickel experience would be great. Set the res at 0.15. Temp 380 def f, 35 watts. A good amount of vapor and a decent flavor. Bumped it up to 500 def f trying different degree's along the way and 38watts. It's pretty good.

My ipv3 liVR came in the mail the other day so I popped this morph tank with the same atlantis coil on to it. Set res ect ect. It's killer vape at 500 def f and 50 joules. Warm vapor, tons of flavor. I'm satisfied.

Now if only I can get the building down good enough to make my own ni200 builds. I might try a vertical build in this morph tank rba.

 

[Fernand]

To rephrase then, wattage is not important in TC mode provided you have your wattage set in excess of that require to maintain your desired temp. Currently vaping at 450 degrees F, initial watts set to 100, after reaching 450 watts fired varies from 4 to 15 depending on how hard/fast I draw on the atomizer.

Yes, that's called regulation. My point: if your mod gives you the option, try different initial wattage as well as different target temps, make your own decisions.

Titanium wire is much nicer to work with than Nickel. Folklore says don't drive Nickel or Titanium red hot. Better safe than sorry, but given all the people inhaling from torched Titanium "nails" for years, it's probably not hyper-toxic, though any oxides are probably best cleaned off.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

The DNA200 takes the initial heat up to a new level, you have a pre-heat wattage figure you can specify (independent of the mod wattage), a pre-heat duration and a pre-heat punch level (soft to hard). You really can get the startup vape experience you want. I use a soft pre-eat of 100 watts for no more than one second.

 

[crxess]

Have u tried vaping at 35w with kanthal
Vs
Vaping with tc set at 35w @380F with ni


What difference is there that u could explain on the vape quality between the two

I Can answer.
380F is 380F regardless of wattage used to get there. Once there the increase Stops so the Vape no longer changes. If the wicking, Battery, Lungs, etc. allowed, you could continue the vape for 15, 30, 45 seconds or longer with no heat increase or vapor/flavor loss.
With a vw Kanthal build, your draw is limited either by starting point or end point heat increase.

Now I will leave as a few seem to not understand the importance of all aspects of the Vape.

Oops, can't leave without commenting on this:

The DNA200 takes the initial heat up to a new level, you have a pre-heat wattage figure you can specify (independent of the mod wattage), a pre-heat duration and a pre-heat punch level (soft to hard). You really can get the startup vape experience you want. I use a soft pre-eat of 100 watts for no more than one second.

A little Feature first presented by Joyetech in the eVic - Programmable Vape
and modified into the Original SX mini S and now M as power modes.
Nothing new, just maybe handled differently.

Now I'm out.