Temp control issues with DNA 250c

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Lsxtrucker

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Apr 5, 2020
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This is driving me nuts. On my Odin 250c with a single framed staple coil 4mm .17 ohms I set my temp at 380 degrees for example. This is when coil is room temp. Coil is detected as .17 ohm. In order to get any vapor I have to turn the vape up to 450 or higher. Once warmed up I can re detect the coil (it then comes in at. 20) to get a decent vape then...I have to turn it down to 240 degrees fareheit or the vape runs very hot even at 240 degrees F. In both times the wattage is at 70 and the preheat is off. I have tried higher and lower wattage and the same thing happens. Preheat is off. When it's at room temp the vape must be turned way way up in temp to get a decent warm vape. Once warmed up if I re read the atomizer the temp must be turned way down (to around 240 degree farenheit where even at that ridiculous low temp the vape is very hot. Basically when coil is read at room temp at 480 degrees it acts same as warmed up coil at 240 degrees.

I unscrew the atty and use the same exact settings on my aegis and it's right on the money with temperature.

Any solution?
 
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Hawise

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This is driving me nuts. On my Odin 250c with a single framed staple coil 4mm .17 ohms I set my temp at 380 degrees for example. This is when coil is room temp. Coil is detected as .17 ohm. In order to get any vapor I have to turn the vape up to 450 or higher. Once warmed up I can re detect the coil (it then comes in at. 20) to get a decent vape then...I have to turn it down to 240 degrees fareheit or the vape runs very hot even at 240 degrees F. In both times the wattage is at 70 and the preheat is off. I have tried higher and lower wattage and the same thing happens. Preheat is off. When it's at room temp the vape must be turned way way up in temp to get a decent warm vape. Once warmed up if I re read the atomizer the temp must be turned way down (to around 240 degree farenheit where even at that ridiculous low temp the vape is very hot. Basically when coil is read at room temp at 480 degrees it acts same as warmed up coil at 240 degrees.

I unscrew the atty and use the same exact settings on my aegis and it's right on the money with temperature.

Any solution?

TC depends on starting with a room temperature coil, so it's important not to redetect the coil after it's warmed up. Was the coil still warm at all when you switched it to the Aegis?

Here's a quick primer on temperature control:

With many metals, resistance is affected by temperature. SS 316L, for example, increases in resistance as the temperature rises. TC doesn't actually read the temperature of your vape. Instead, it reads the resistance of the coil at room temperature, then estimates the temperature of your coil based on how much the resistance increases as you fire the mod. This means that when you detect the coil after it's warmed up, your baseline reading is too high and the mod will underestimate the temperature of the coil. It then overheats the coil trying to get it the resistance up to where it thinks it should be. In other words, the Odin 250c sounds like it's working properly.

If I understand you correctly, that leaves the question of why your Aegis is vaping at 380 f like the DNA does at 450+. If the coil was still warm when you switched it to the Aegis, then that would throw off the Aegis.
You can also expect a bit of variation between mods (although probably not 70+ degrees worth). They often use slightly different figures or processes to calculate temperature from the change in resistance.

For what it's worth, I understand that 380 is considered a bit low (but not unheard of), while 450 tends to be more common. DNA is also known for the quality of their TC, although it's by no means perfect.
 
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Mordacai

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Jan 16, 2019
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Thanks for that @Lsxtrucker. From what I know from experience, Evolv doesn't have a TFR file for SS316L and this will affect the accuracy of TC.

There are some user created TFR files on the Evolv forum for SS316L and the information also to create your own, they'll at least get you closer hopefully to the experience and behaviour that you're looking for.

If you want a quicker and easier fix you can set the TCR to 88 - 92 in Escribe.

Max temperature should not exceed 250°C, and you'll need to set your wattage accordingly for the resistance of the atomiser. I use Watt Calculator for Android as it's relatively accurate and free as it gives you a range to work around and an optimal setting as well, but depending upon the coil mass you may well need to use more watts to heat the coil effectively.
 
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gsmit1

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I unscrew the atty and use the same exact settings on my aegis and it's right on the money with temperature.
Do consider the possibility that it's the Odin that's delivering accurate TC and the less accurate TC of the Aegis just happens to be closer to what you like temperature wise.
 
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gsmit1

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@gsmit1, you always use spaced coils in TC.
I prefer spaced coils generally. Personal preference. I also prefer titanium wire for TC.

In reading on the Evolv forums, I've seen the recommendation many times to use spaced coils in TC. I've also seen it said that more complex coils are more difficult for the board to track too.

I am NO expert. I'm just reporting what I've seen people say who know a lot more than I do.
 
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ShamrockPat

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    I prefer spaced coils generally. Personal preference. I also prefer titanium wire for TC.
    Same here on all accounts. :D Mainly because many times it's easier to get a straight shot to the clamps without long legs. On the Hadaly I always ran contact coils (in TC) due to the short distance between the clamps, you just gotta make sure there are no hotspots.
     
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    gsmit1

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    Hot spots also flip out the circuit's ability to read temperature. I have seen guys with a lot more expertise than myself highly recommend spaced coils for use with DNA mods.
    I should clarify that the board doesn't actually read temperature. It reads resistance as it changes because of temperature. Hot spots throw that reading off. Spaced coils make it much easier to avoid hot spots.
     
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    gsmit1

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    Mainly because many times it's easier to get a straight shot to the clamps without long legs.
    Some decks make that easier than others if you want to get over the airflow :rolleyes:
    20200606_125443[1]_cr.jpg
     
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