Tesla nano 120w ?
- Thread starter Topwater Elvis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I just bought my third. A buddy really liked my first copper so I gave it to him. Had no issues with the first two, but my new copper has a faulty battery door. Just about everytime I pick it up the door pops open and the batts fall out.
you might wanna check out this thread: Tesla Nano 120W Steampunk Edition. there's been a big discussion about the battery door problem there. as a synopsis i'll just add that a few people in that thread decided to get a silicone sleeve to put over their Tesla. as for me, i don't want to cover mine up so i put some scotch tape on the latch to keep it from flinging the batteries out at me. it works and it's barely visible.
Thanks, I'll check it out. I've been using gorilla tape and it's pretty visible. I've been thinking about using some stick on Velcro, so we'll. Was just hoping for a permanent fix.
I've been vaping my Tesla Nano 120W Steampunk for over a year now. All things considered, it's been trouble free. When between hits, I typically set the unit down on its bottom. I've noticed recently that when I pick up the device, sometimes the battery door opens and the batteries fall out. I suspect the problem is the same as noticed on both of my Fuchai 213s. The tension on the battery contacts have relaxed, resulting in intermittent battery voltage in the Fuchai units and ejected batteries in the Tesla. A more robust battery contact/door locking system is needed. I'm looking to invest $140 in a Lost Vape Therion DNA 166 that I hope solves my problems with intermittent battery contact and loose battery doors.
I put a sleeve on my copper Tesla, and that resolved the battery issue. No leaking down into the mod, and I have leaked quite a number of RTAs on it... It seems to flow down into the sleeve, not the mod.
The silver gunmetal I have as a backup doesn't seem to have quite the same issue with the battery door. I bought it a bit later on. Not sure if Tesla fixed the problem, but I'm saving it as a backup and using my copper with the sleeve as my main mod. Both 510 pins were fine, I also get great battery life, and I have no regrets about it. I also think it does TC well, it's probably my favorite mod for TC.... I don't know how the chip converts power so efficiently, but it certainly does. As a MTL person, I can't go below 7 watts, but that seems to work out quite nicely (the ST will not fire below 7 watts).
I have found the copper mod to consistently read about 0.14 high on all my atomizers, but since it's consistent, I don't worry too much about it, just adjust wattage...
I think (especially if you get a good battery door) it's kind of a steal at the prices you see now. I'm almost tempted to get another instead of a DNA mod, but I'm holding off on ALL vape stuff for now....
Anna
The silver gunmetal I have as a backup doesn't seem to have quite the same issue with the battery door. I bought it a bit later on. Not sure if Tesla fixed the problem, but I'm saving it as a backup and using my copper with the sleeve as my main mod. Both 510 pins were fine, I also get great battery life, and I have no regrets about it. I also think it does TC well, it's probably my favorite mod for TC.... I don't know how the chip converts power so efficiently, but it certainly does. As a MTL person, I can't go below 7 watts, but that seems to work out quite nicely (the ST will not fire below 7 watts).
I have found the copper mod to consistently read about 0.14 high on all my atomizers, but since it's consistent, I don't worry too much about it, just adjust wattage...
I think (especially if you get a good battery door) it's kind of a steal at the prices you see now. I'm almost tempted to get another instead of a DNA mod, but I'm holding off on ALL vape stuff for now....
Anna
I think (especially if you get a good battery door) it's kind of a steal at the prices you see now. I'm almost tempted to get another instead of a DNA mod, but I'm holding off on ALL vape stuff for now....
Anna[/QUOTE]
In the years that I've been vaping, I typically vape a 70VG/30PG juice with between 3 and 1.5 mg nicotine using either 0.25 or 0.5 ohm coils in Crown/Crown II tanks at between 30 and 45 watts. I like the reviews of the new Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 75. If I never vape above 50 watts, is there any reason for me to get a Lost Vape Therion DNA 166? Does MTL mean mouth to lung? If so, then I'm a DTL
Anna[/QUOTE]
In the years that I've been vaping, I typically vape a 70VG/30PG juice with between 3 and 1.5 mg nicotine using either 0.25 or 0.5 ohm coils in Crown/Crown II tanks at between 30 and 45 watts. I like the reviews of the new Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 75. If I never vape above 50 watts, is there any reason for me to get a Lost Vape Therion DNA 166? Does MTL mean mouth to lung? If so, then I'm a DTL
Sounds like you are more DL to me. With that said, a 75 watt mod would probably be fine and last a fair amount of time (depending on how much you vape). The 50 watt would probably have a shorter battery life as you are getting closer to the higher wattage amount. IF you really like the Therion DNA 166 better than the 75, there's also no real disadvantage to getting it.
Anna
Anna
In the years that I've been vaping, I typically vape a 70VG/30PG juice with between 3 and 1.5 mg nicotine using either 0.25 or 0.5 ohm coils in Crown/Crown II tanks at between 30 and 45 watts. I like the reviews of the new Lost Vape Paranormal DNA 75. If I never vape above 50 watts, is there any reason for me to get a Lost Vape Therion DNA 166? Does MTL mean mouth to lung? If so, then I'm a DTL[/QUOTE]
Plenty of reason to get a Lost vape therion, if you vape at 50 watts you'll get awesome battery life.
I got my therion a couple days back & it's amazing
I wouldn't get a 75 watt device unless your vaping 40 watt or under.Besides the great chip I love the form factor. Get it you won't regret it. Trust me it bears the tesla. The tesla is overpowered whilst the therion is accurate
I applied 2 coats of clear nail polish to both the Fuchai and Tesla battery door contact surfaces (allow to dry between applications). The additional thickness of the polish appears to have increased the tension on the battery door. I assume after several battery changes I'll need to apply more polish as it wears way. This invisible repair appears to have fixed the problem.
Very nice MacGuyvering, indeed. I may have to try that with my tesla door, the one that's super wonky. This will necessitate buying some clear coat nailpolish. I think I have three bottles... somewhere... and none of them would really look fantastic on my mod, LOL. 2 coats seems to be the magic amount, though? Also, are you applying it around the edges only on the Tesla, or where? I actually considered something like that or was hoping to apply magnets, but the battery terminals take up most of the space on the door, so I went with the sleeve instead....
Anna
Anna
I applied the polish (yellow) only around the areas where the battery door locks into the base on the door and on the mod. Keep the polish on the bottom lip of both surfaces.
I noticed something interesting about the steampunk nano door. I have a sleeve, but with lighter mods on top, it did occasionally come unlatched. I shoved a Kayfun clone on it (a heavy one) and ever since, I have had NO issues with the door at all. My theory is that weight of the tank presses harder on the 510 pin, which causes pressure on the battery door, causing it to remain closed.
It's a theory, that's all, but... I did find it interesting.
Anna
It's a theory, that's all, but... I did find it interesting.
Anna
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
