Testing a Horn Button Switch Prior to Installation?

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wv2win

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Well if the Horns are like mine, there is really no room for a clip.

The wire I use will fit inside the little holes. Pre-tin your wires with solder first (lotsa soldering vids on YouTube). I then slip the wire into the hole and bend it back and squeeze it. You are getting a decent mechanical connection that way. Pre-tin your iron and touch both the wire and tab. You hardly need any additional solder and the whole process should take about 6 seconds tops.

The key is always a well maintained, clean tip that will tin nicely. At the end of the session always clean and re-tin your tip.

Thank you very much for that advice. When you say "clean your iron", does that mean just run it over the water filled sponge while still hot until no residue is on the tip? Also, from reading earlier posts, is there a concern that you can burn out the switch by keeping the soldering iron on the tips too long?
 
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Drozd

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a cheap pair of helping hands helps work as a heat sink of sorts too...
I tend to put the button in one of the aligator clips holding one post...
pre tin my wire insert it through the hole in the other post on the button, fold it back tight on itself and give it a bit of a twist...
then pull it kinda snug and put the wire in the other clip to hold it..
then solder...solder connection is made quicly with minimal heat and little additional solder
 

o4_srt

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Thank you very much for that advice. When you say "clean your iron", does that mean just run it over the water filled sponge while still hot until no residue is on the tip? Also, from reading earlier posts, is there a concern that you can burn out the switch by keeping the soldering iron on the tips too long?

yes and yes

soldering process (starting with a tinned tip)

1. clean tip on sponge
2. solder
3. clean tip again
4. tin (cover tip with solder)

repeat as needed

keeping the tip tinned will prevent any corrosion/oxidation from damaging it. The hotter the tip, the faster it corrodes.
 
also if you have the option, do not get the radio shack irons.
those things are the devil! i rested mine on the solder point of a project and the entire thing bent.

half way down the page is one for like 15 bucks "something 99"
http://www.mpja.com/productsdirect....&item2=15845+TL&item3=15140+TL&item4=15141+TL
have it, and love it!
cant get all the details because kids are sleeping in my room and IE doesn't want to load the page.
cant wait to get back on the linux box.
 

wv2win

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I appreciate all of the advice. How about when you put it all together, you checked the switch before you soldered it and the box isn't working. What is the best way to trouble shoot where your problem is? I assume you can use the multimeter to check every connection and every solder point for continuity. Can someone walk me through that or lead me to a prior post/thread that would be helpful?
 

AttyPops

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You multi-meter probably has a continuity test. It will show open vs "short" or something like that. Basically it runs a small current through the leads so you can test end-to-end. Touch the leads together and it beeps or something. Assuming you have this, it will tell you:

Center pin of atty -> button-atty-side
button-atty-side -> button-non-atty-side (when pushed) **** check this 1st **** if fail you fried/melted the button
button-non-atty-side -> battery connector and/or switch
battery-ground->atty-shell
mater switch conacts
etc.

You do all of that with the batteries removed.

Look for hollow solder joints this way.

You can also test voltage with batteries in, but know what you are shorting to what.

Heat sink clip:
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=heat sink clip&origkw=heat sink clip&sr=1

Although you can use an alligator clip, the heat sink clip is flat and has more surface area to contact a flat lead. It fits on the contacts for the button I was discussing.
 
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