Testing batteries

[tidegirl]

I have 2 AW IMR 18490s and 2 efest IMR 18490s. They are getting old and performance seems to be slipping, so I want to test them with a multimeter.

I know they should charge to 4.2 v, but what am I looking for when they are discharged? What is safe, and what is I should toss them? Should I use them until the Provari starts blinking a low batt warning, or until they stop working for testing?

Any other tips or advice are welcome. Don't forget to translate it from mechanical speak to English though, I am not mechanically inclined.

 

[Baditude]

If using these in a Provari, the fire button will start blinking when the battery gets low (approximately around 3.5 volts), and will eventually shut down to avoid over-discharge. No worries there, the Provari won't allow you to over-drain the battery like a mechanical mod might. You'll slightly prolong the life expectancy if you remove & charge them when the fire button begins blinking, rather than draining them down further, but not by much.

Why not just get some new AW batteries if they are over a year old and performance is dropping off? My guess is that your older ones have served you well.

Make sure you do your maintanance on the Provari for optimal performance. Clean the inner battery contact inside the Provari, either with the eraser of a pencil or with alcohol on a cotton-tipped applicator (Q-Tip). Also make sure that the threading on the battery cap is clean. The cap is part of the battery circuit, and dirt & oxidation in the threads can affect battery performance. Noaloxx is the recommended cleansing agent for the threads. The threads should look like shiney bare metal, not dirty or black.

 

[tidegirl]

A few more questions- I just got a new charger because my old one was acting up. It is a Trustfire. I know, not the best, but it was available where I was already placing an order. Three of my 4 batteries charged to 4.28-4.3 v on this. The 4th one I haven't charged and checked yet- it is currently in use. Is this likely the batteries or the charger that is allowing overcharge?

And Baditude, aren't you the one who was always listing a battery website that you buy from? What was the site? I had it bookmarked, but I lost my bookmarks when I had to uninstall chrome to get rid of a virus.

I did use Noalox on my threads when I got the Provari. Probably time for a re-application.

 

[Baditude]

RTD Vapor for all of your mod batteries and charger needs.

A battery should never go over 4.2 volts. I suspect the overcharge is due to the cheap Trustfire charger, as its not an intelligent charger (which will stop charging at 4.2 volts).

The threading on battery endcaps are bare metal. They can succumb to oxidation (ie rust) which can cause the end cap to lock up, and can also affect electrical conduction of the battery as the end cap is part of the electrical circuit. Application and cleaning with Noalox on a routine basis is recommended by Provape.

 

[tidegirl]

Hubby will be so happy since I just bought a new charger.

So I am looking at the Nitecore Intellicharger i2 or the Xtar WP2. Thoughts on these? I don't want to order another worthless charger.

Xtar WP2 II - Battery Chargers

http://rtdvapor.com/index.php/battery-chargers/nitecore-intellicharger-i2.html

 

[Kemosabe]

xtar is a fantastic band charger. i have the VP1 and it rocks socks.
nitecore is good too but it wont give you the real-time digital voltage readout.

 

[tidegirl]

xtar is a fantastic band charger. i have the VP1 and it rocks socks.
nitecore is good too but it wont give you the real-time digital voltage readout.

Every answer I get in this thread leaves me with another question LOL. I looked at the WP2 again and the VP 1. The WP2 doesn't have the digital readout, but comes with a car charger. Neither are crucial features on a daily basis, but I can see times that each would be handy.

Decisions, decisions...

 

[Kemosabe]

Every answer I get in this thread leaves me with another question LOL. I looked at the WP2 again and the VP 1. The WP2 doesn't have the digital readout, but comes with a car charger. Neither are crucial features on a daily basis, but I can see times that each would be handy.

Decisions, decisions...

The vp1 comes with a car charger too. Mine did anyway. Yours should too, as long as it's boxed. It's underneath the plastic mold in the box.

 

[supertrunker]

VP1 is a good charger, but it reminds me of the first time you ever saw a washing machine - you are glued to watching it!

I found the sliders on it were variable - one was tough to move without force after a while. What it does do well is to charge 2 batteries to exactly the same voltage and if you stack them that is important.

i only use 18650 batteries and so i use this since every channel gets a 1A charge and the sliders are very smooth.
18650 Li-ion Battery Charger Soshine SC-S1-MAX-Latest Generation.

T

 

[Kemosabe]

VP1 is a good charger, but it reminds me of the first time you ever saw a washing machine - you are glued to watching it!

I found the sliders on it were variable - one was tough to move without force after a while. What it does do well is to charge 2 batteries to exactly the same voltage and if you stack them that is important.

i only use 18650 batteries and so i use this since every channel gets a 1A charge and the sliders are very smooth.
18650 Li-ion Battery Charger Soshine SC-S1-MAX-Latest Generation.

T

good call! i thought it was only me. i simply cannot stop checking my voltage as it climbs. im glued to that screen whenever its on. but i really like being able to see where im at.

the sliders on my VP1 are indeed crunchy. kinda ticked me off seeing how the charger is top of the line, yet my crappy tenergy charger has smooth and buttery sliders. eh, not much you can do i guess. i might look into some dry lubricant for the sliders. especially now seeing how you say they do get worse. i thought theyd get better, kinda like a break-in period. but i have had it for months so..yeah.

ive noticed that the two bays sorta share energy. if i put in 1 batt with a lower charge than the other, the lower charge batt will "steal" charge from the other batt and attempt to even out the two cells voltage. if the voltages are close, it will even out before completion; if theyre vastly different, they do still get close to the same.