Testing Kanger Heads With a Meter & Coil Build Question

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molimelight

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I think I have this correct but wanted to check to see. Is where I have the arrows pointing in the photo the places to place the probes from my meter to check the resistance? I want to build some coils and I don't have a mod to check them, but I have a decent meter.


atomizer.jpg


I've successfully converted the Kanger heads to cotton and now I want to try some coil builds of about the same 1.8 ohms I'm currently using with my eGo C-Twist and Mini Pro tank II. I have 28, 30, and 32 Kanthal and 1/16, 5/64, and 3/32 drill bits. I've read a lot of the stuff and watched a lot of YouTube and I think I've seen too many. So, anyone have an idea on which combination would work well for a first attempt at a coil (micro or not) build for the Kanger head at 1.5 to 2.0 ohms? By the way, cotton is GREAT!
 

Nataani

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Yes, you can test it there with a multimeter. I have a lot of sizes of Kanthal too and I use the 1/16" bit with 8 wraps of 30 gauge to get around 1.8 ohms.

^^^^^^^ What he said :D

Your going to have to wrap as a micro coil (contact coil) to it with 8 wraps.

You can also do 5 wraps of 32 gauge on the 1/16th as a standard 5/4 to also get 1.8.
 

edyle

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I think I have this correct but wanted to check to see. Is where I have the arrows pointing in the photo the places to place the probes from my meter to check the resistance? I want to build some coils and I don't have a mod to check them, but I have a decent meter.


I've successfully converted the Kanger heads to cotton and now I want to try some coil builds of about the same 1.8 ohms I'm currently using with my eGo C-Twist and Mini Pro Tank II. I have 28, 30, and 32 Kanthal and 1/16, 5/64, and 3/32 drill bits. I've read a lot of the stuff and watched a lot of YouTube and I think I've seen too many. So, anyone have an idea on which combination would work well for a first attempt at a coil (micro or not) build for the Kanger head at 1.5 to 2.0 ohms? By the way, cotton is GREAT!

Yes correct; the left arrow points to the positive point; above the positive pin is the insulator grommet which separates the positive pin from the negative area; the negative area is ------- JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE ELSE! So you need not fiddle and twist and fumble trying to touch the curved side of the thing, you could just go right at the opposite end at the top and conveniently measure from there
 

Dandreid

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I build mine with a standard coil (wraps not touching) if I am using cotton yarn (like peaches and cream) and a micro coil (wraps touching) if I am using cotton balls. This all depends on your particular wants for a wick, but both styles work well.

One thing I would recommend is also re-test your coil after you have screwed it into the base. If you don't get the wire trimmed correctly, you can get a good reading on the coil itself, but you can short after you install it in the base.
 

eMats

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Thanks! Do you compress the coils together and use the torch, or are they separated as in a regular coil?

Yes, I compress them and torch, then stick the cotton through. I also use a cotton flavor wick to help patch any gaps in the slot that may still be there after the silicon cap is seated. That way you alleviate any gurgling issues. This method allow me to use a head for a very long time without gurgle from filled to almost empty.
 
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molimelight

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ScottP

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