Testing the coil - and other Reo-newb q's

[ecitek]

If the Mailman doesn't screw up (again) I should receive my lovely Orange-n-Black Grand and Reomizer tomorrow.

When testing the resistance of the coil, do you install it and then test from post to post?

I have been using 2.0 Cisco Spec attys for a while and I guess I will start my Reomizer out somewhere in the 1.8 to 2.0 range.

Using the 30ga Kanthal, what would you recommend to wrap the coils on and how many wraps?

I suppose I need to burn and quench the Kanthal first? Any pre-treating for the Silica wick?

THANX

 

[thinkingaboutit]

With a multimeter? I think you put the negative in the center of the 510 connection and the positive on the threads.

Then again, someone who has done it will be along shortly

 

[redeyedancer]

I leave my atomizer on the mod you can check the ohms with it on the mod . I always dry burn the atty until the coil is red as far as the silica wick goes no treatment is needed

 

[MamaTried]

also not an expert, but i'd guess testing resistance post-to-post is ideal.

testing voltage drop, however, in the same manner has been known to cause woe, despair and frantic ordering of spare springs

if your ohmmeter reads greater than zero when shorting the leads together, subtract that amount from what you read measuring the coil. that is, if your meter does not have a zero adjustment button

 

[MamaTried]

I leave my atomizer on the mod you can check the ohms with it on the mod . I always dry burn the atty until the coil is red as far as the silica wick goes no treatment is needed

what the hell are you doing up so late? unless, of course you are making more Woodvils

 

[darkzero]

Don't heat & quench, generally the act of doing so is hardening. Heat & let air cool is annealing (more to it though for heat treating but not important here). Kanthal usually already comes in the annealed state so there's really no reason to try to anneal it futher but it may help with thicker guages though. Only reason to torch in most cases to burn of any residual contaminants. 30 ga is not very stiff so just burn to clean is all that's needed.

 

[Evil Speakers]

How do you check the ohms with the RM2 on the Reo?

 

[darkzero]

How do you check the ohms with the RM2 on the Reo?

Across the two posts.....that is unless you are talking about using one of those atty resistance checker box things.

 

[djezewski]

On a multimeter the red goes in the center of the connector and the black goes on the threads

 

[ecitek]

Thanks for the answers. Looking forward to getting my new toy.

 

[Evil Speakers]

Across the two posts.....that is unless you are talking about using one of those atty resistance checker box things.

Really? I had no idea! This will simplify things a great deal. When you say across the post do you mean on top of the screws or below or does it matter? I'm pretty new at this...

Atty resistance checker box? I think it's easier to get a hold of a Woodvil than one of those!

 

[darkzero]

Really? I had no idea! This will simplify things a great deal. When you say across the post do you mean on top of the screws or below or does it matter? I'm pretty new at this...

Atty resistance checker box? I think it's easier to get a hold of a Woodvil than one of those!

Sorry, "across" means measuring resistance between the two posts (terminology thing)..... Yes, you can use the MM leads to touch anywhere on the posts but placing the leads on the screw heads would be easier. This would also tell you if you had a loose screw (connection) as resistance would fluctuate or read very high.

A coil is essentially just a resistor so polarity won't matter, so it does not matter which post you use the red & black leads on. But in case you wanted to know, the post furthest away from the juice hole is positive & the post closest to the juice hole is negative which is also the same as common ground. Which means you can place one lead on the positive post & the other lead you can touch anywhere on the RM2's body or Reo's body. Sorry, too much information, sorry if I might have confused you.....just measure at the screw heads & you're all good.

 

[Evil Speakers]

Sorry, "across" means measuring resistance between the two posts (terminology thing)..... Yes, you can use the MM leads to touch anywhere on the posts but placing the leads on the screw heads would be easier. This would also tell you if you had a loose screw (connection) as resistance would fluctuate or read very high.

A coil is essentially just a resistor so polarity won't matter, so it does not matter which post you use the red & black leads on. But in case you wanted to know, the post furthest away from the juice hole is positive & the post closest to the juice hole is negative which is also the same as common ground. Which means you can place one lead on the positive post & the other lead you can touch anywhere on the RM2's body or Reo's body. Sorry, too much information, sorry if I might have confused you.....just measure at the screw heads & you're all good.

Thank you, and I appreciate the additional information. Speaking of additional information... Can you measure voltage this way as well or is that only possible by touching the leads to the battery?

 

[Raynman]

With a multimeter? I think you put the negative in the center of the 510 connection and the positive on the threads.

Then again, someone who has done it will be along shortly

On a multimeter the red goes in the center of the connector and the black goes on the threads

Yes this can be done but checking from the posts on each end of the coil should be easier. Also it can be done from whatever you are using to build on. (ie another mod or stand) Polarity doesn't matter red and black can go to either place for resistance checking.

 

[darkzero]

Thank you, and I appreciate the additional information. Speaking of additional information... Can you measure voltage this way as well or is that only possible by touching the leads to the battery?

Yes you can but it will only measure voltage under load. With the leads placed on the screw heads (when measuring voltage best to only do it this way & be more careful cause a short can occur) then press the fire button & you will get the voltage reading under the load of the coil. Oh & make sure you have the MM set to VDC as resistance should not be measured under power. To measure the actual battery voltage with no load you'd have to remove it & measure directly off the battery.

 

[MamaTried]

Thank you, and I appreciate the additional information. Speaking of additional information... Can you measure voltage this way as well or is that only possible by touching the leads to the battery?

you can test voltage that way, but like i mentioned earlier, it is pretty darn easy to accidentally short the leads together, causing a battery short. if that happens, the battery spring should collapse and only costs 5 bucks or so to replace. but i would toss the battery as well to be safe. so for me it would be a $15 oops.

if you have hands of steel, however, help yourself. just have spare springs on hand.

 

[cioranes]

the battery spring should collapse and only costs 5 bucks or so to replace. but i would toss the battery as well to be safe. so for me it would be a $15 oops.

Damn. I collapsed a spring once and didn't toss the battery. Don't remember which one it is at all. They all look the same lol.
But it was such a little collapse. A tiny short.
Am I gonna die?
Do I have time to order more reos first?

 

[darkzero]

Damn. I collapsed a spring once and didn't toss the battery. Don't remember which one it is at all. They all look the same lol.
But it was such a little collapse. A tiny short.
Am I gonna die?
Do I have time to order more reos first?

Depends on how bad it was shorted. It might be ok but it depends on the condition (age) of the cell when it was shorted. I wouldn't flat out just toss it. I'd test it first....make sure it charges properly. If you don't know which one it was, when you charge your cells, check periodically to see if they get abnormally hot when charging. If you run into one that gets hot to touch when charging or won't charge past 4.0V or so that might be the one. If you don't run into one it was probably a survivor. IMRs I'm assuming. If it was a protected li-co & the protection circuit did it's job then nothing to worry about.

 

[cioranes]

Thx!
Yes IMR.
It was a month ago or so, and I haven't noticed any getting hot while charging (I usually check that) and no voltage difference.
Guess I'm ok. But it really was a tiny short. The spring was collapsed a quarter of the way or so.
It was the damned NR/R/NR junctions stuck in the tiny ceramic of my ebaron dripper.
Rm2 all the way now. Easy life.
But I sure will toss in the future.

 

[aarhus]

If you're checking resistance with the RM2 on the Reo, I'd advise you to take the battery out first, just in case you do make a mistake. It is an easy one to do, and one that leaves you feeling particularly ...'duh'... afterwards.

I usually put my RM2 on a stand when building/testing/installing coils. Or I build it directly on the ohmmeter. This also gives me a chance to do a quick clean of the Reo and a wipedown.