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Testing Voltage Loss on a Mechanical Mod

Discussion in 'Ask The Veterans' started by XfooYen, Feb 12, 2013.

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  1. XfooYen

    XfooYen Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 11, 2012
    SoCal
    I own an EA Mod. It is a solid stainless steel telescoping mechanical mod with brass positive pin, brass negative post and brass firing button (bottom side). I try to keep all the brass parts clean and although I do, I get a hot firing button often. I'm primarily using genesis RBAs in the 1ohm range. When I get the hot button, I'll check out the coils and they are all firing fine with no hot spots and no change in flavor. On a 510 box resistance meter, the genesis will test within expected range. I don't think they're shorting. I use only AW IMR batteries which are all fairly new. When the button gets hot, and I pull the battery, the battery is still cool. So I assume I have a conductivity problem at the switch. When testing voltage with a tank-meter, I'm getting 0.9 volt drop under load. Is that normal? I have tested load using a variety of atomizers and the voltage drop is consistently -0.8 to -0.9 volts differential from a test without load. I bought a digital multimeter (something I should have had already) and want to test the mod for where the voltage drop is occurring. I plan on treating the problem parts with conductive lubricant (NoOxId) and want to test the parts before and after cleaning/treating. What are the steps using the multimeter I need to take to test the parts individually to ensure proper data. In other words, I know how to test a battery for voltage and an atomizer for resistance, how do I test the mod body for conductivity to show voltage loss in a specific area? Is there anything I'm missing. What should the voltage differential under load be when using low resistance coils?

    147253d1351715587-new-fully-mechanical-telescope-stainless-steel-muna-carto-tank-ea-mod-18650-sm.jpg

    Many thanks,

    X
     
  2. rolygate

    rolygate Forum Manager Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Sep 24, 2009
    ECF Towers
    To test a mechanical or basic electrical APV for resistance (there should be virtually none detectable in either), you can insert a solid metal connector instead of the battery, attach probes to the atomiser connector, then press the activator button. If anything more than 0.1 ohm is shown you have a problem. A piece of wood dowel well-wrapped with ali foil will do as a dummy battery to make the circuit. Check it for resistance first, end to end.

    This assumes there is no diode or fuse in line with any quantifiable resistance.

    A 'mechanical APV' is one with no wiring at all, just a spring-loaded connector button (ex: XHaler). A 'basic electrical APV' is wired through the positive line through an electrical switch (ex: Silver Bullet).

    The voltage differential or voltage drop is proportional to the battery size. If your battery weighs 5 kilos then there will be no observable voltage drop. If it weighs 10 grammes then expect to see a substantial drop. For each specific case the figure will be different (ex: 18650 Li-Mn; 16340 Li-ion).
     
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