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Testing Voltage Loss on a Mechanical Mod

Discussion in 'Ask The Veterans' started by XfooYen, Feb 12, 2013.

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  1. XfooYen

    XfooYen Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 11, 2012
    I own an EA Mod. It is a solid stainless steel telescoping mechanical mod with brass positive pin, brass negative post and brass firing button (bottom side). I try to keep all the brass parts clean and although I do, I get a hot firing button often. I'm primarily using genesis RBAs in the 1ohm range. When I get the hot button, I'll check out the coils and they are all firing fine with no hot spots and no change in flavor. On a 510 box resistance meter, the genesis will test within expected range. I don't think they're shorting. I use only AW IMR batteries which are all fairly new. When the button gets hot, and I pull the battery, the battery is still cool. So I assume I have a conductivity problem at the switch. When testing voltage with a tank-meter, I'm getting 0.9 volt drop under load. Is that normal? I have tested load using a variety of atomizers and the voltage drop is consistently -0.8 to -0.9 volts differential from a test without load. I bought a digital multimeter (something I should have had already) and want to test the mod for where the voltage drop is occurring. I plan on treating the problem parts with conductive lubricant (NoOxId) and want to test the parts before and after cleaning/treating. What are the steps using the multimeter I need to take to test the parts individually to ensure proper data. In other words, I know how to test a battery for voltage and an atomizer for resistance, how do I test the mod body for conductivity to show voltage loss in a specific area? Is there anything I'm missing. What should the voltage differential under load be when using low resistance coils?


    Many thanks,

  2. rolygate

    rolygate Forum Manager Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Sep 24, 2009
    ECF Towers
    To test a mechanical or basic electrical APV for resistance (there should be virtually none detectable in either), you can insert a solid metal connector instead of the battery, attach probes to the atomiser connector, then press the activator button. If anything more than 0.1 ohm is shown you have a problem. A piece of wood dowel well-wrapped with ali foil will do as a dummy battery to make the circuit. Check it for resistance first, end to end.

    This assumes there is no diode or fuse in line with any quantifiable resistance.

    A 'mechanical APV' is one with no wiring at all, just a spring-loaded connector button (ex: XHaler). A 'basic electrical APV' is wired through the positive line through an electrical switch (ex: Silver Bullet).

    The voltage differential or voltage drop is proportional to the battery size. If your battery weighs 5 kilos then there will be no observable voltage drop. If it weighs 10 grammes then expect to see a substantial drop. For each specific case the figure will be different (ex: 18650 Li-Mn; 16340 Li-ion).
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