The 6AMP Beast is Here- Smoktek Smokbox Varicool 6amp USA Mod -Review

[niczgreat]

There is a huge misconception about what is and isn't PWM. PWM is a function, PWM is not a category to lump a device into based on its output. ALL switching regulators use PWM. The regulator adjust the output voltage by adjusting the length of the "On" pulse; the pulse width. The pulse width correlates to the duty cycle; the percentage of ON vs OFF. No matter what the output voltage looks like, one thing remains constant; the function that allows them to do what they are intended to do is PWM.

The VariCool's regulator, Murata OKR-T series, uses PWM. It also has 2 capacitors and an inductor onboard; 1 input capacitor, and an LC Output Filter consisting of the inductor (L), and 1 output capacitor (C). This is how it achieves a low ripple DC output voltage. Without the filter it would produce a square wave pulse train and register on the ECDMeter as PWM. This is why I have often said that a more appropriate set of categories would be filtered and un-filtered. There is no other way to get a low ripple DC voltage from a switching regulator.

Kudos to you Radar2146,
I really appreciate your posts. Your writing is excellent and informative. I appreciate when you correct me. I always fear that because of my limited technical background that I'm going to make mistakes like the one I made above when I represented the Beast as a non-pwm device.

I am not being facetious, I value your incisive, knowledgeable well written posts. You are very very good at making complicated subjects seem easy.!!

 

[zoiDman]

To diverge from the post a little;
From my experience with a Mini Lava Tube. Yes the Provari is worth the $100.00 extra, it's a great unit, a solid, reliable E-Cig. I bought one a around a year and 1/2 ago and it was the best Mod I ever owned for mainstream vaping. If I have one gripe against Provari, it's that they haven't innovated. The only upgraded to a 3.5 Amp unit this year. Why didn't they produce a 5 or 6 amp unit.?

In my opinion, from having owned one for 1/2 an hour before it almost burst into flames. Lava Tubes are Hit and Miss Chinese Quality. They don't hold a candle to the Provari.

I dunno.

The LavaTube is an Inexpensive Mod. But it has Survived many Drops and keeps putting out Vapor. Just like all my other Mods. Even my el-CheapO Box Mod with the Duct Tape and Super Glue on it.

It's lighter than a Provari-Mini, which I also own. It fits in my Shirt Pocket and has more Battery mAh that my eGo Twist. I also wouldn't feel Crushed if I Lost it while out and about.

Can you pull 6 amps thru it. No, no you Can't. But I don't pull more than about 2.0 amps thru Any of my Mods. I guess I'm in Minority in this thread but I don't need a Mod that can do 40+ Watts / 6 Amps.

Having a Mod that can do 40 Watts is just Numbers for Numbers sake to me. Kinda like buying ZR rated Tires when you own a Kia.

But everyone is Different and some want/need More Current to make more Power.

 

[billherbst]

In audio systems, more power generally means lower distortion. The reason to buy an amp with mega-watt output is not to be able to knock down the house, but to get higher-quality sound at regular listening levels.

Vaping is different. A 6-amp regulator does not improve a vape using 1.8 amps, at least not because of the higher power possible. Other things being equal, that 1.8 amp vape will be the same whether the regulator has a 2.5 amp limit or a 12-amp limit. That said, quality of design, components, and manufacturing of the regulator matters a lot, naturally, and sometimes higher current limits may mean better quality. Unless you use dual coils or vape very low-resistance-coil atties/cartos (under 1.25 ohms), 2.5 amps will usually be adequate for most resistance/voltage combinations and for 95% of vapers.

Seems to me that 4 amps and above are mostly about bragging rights. I love my Penguin tin VV mod with the OKR/t6 6-amp switching regulator, but, in my real-world day-to-day experience, it doesn't vape any better than my Madvapes VV boxes with a 3-amp linear regulator.

Maybe running an APV far below its amp limit adds to regulator longevity, but I don't possess the knowledge or data to support that assumption. I'd also expect that APV death caused by failure of mechanical or assembly parts is far more common than regulator failure, but again, I'm just presuming that.

 

[skelley]

All that matters to me is that it works and works well.
I can place a order for one and have it in hand within 2-3 days, no special order.
It doesn't get hot when pushing my hybrid coils like my metal mods.
The lower amp limit of my tube mod was generating heat when I tried to push it.
Sure the varicool 3amp version probably would have worked since it has the ability to stay cool, but why not opt for the 6 for a few bucks more.

I really like the filtered output. I only owned 1 vv mod that had unfiltered PWM and it popped more coils than the days I used it under normal vaping conditions.

I really don't understand what the big issue is? Am I missing something?

 

[A17kawboy]

@skelley: another advantage of this device, the form factor means less flack from the "peanut gallery" lol

@rader: was that you that was talking about how Vrms is basically still an approximation of what is actually happening at the coil? if not who and where was that? interesting stuff though way over my head at the moment. Trying to grasp the concept.

I agree that for the most part this technical stuff is moot. It's the vape experience that counts. However in my case I'm enjoying trying to learn a little electrical/electronic theory.
I found the post I referred to in my above post. It was by kwcharlie over in the Zmax Owners' Thread-post #693. My apologies guys I don't know how to link it.
Stonemull (Stoney) responds in post #801 and the conversation gets pretty heavy theory-wise from there. Just thought I'd let y'all know so you can check it out if you're interested. Looks like a vaper named SolemnPenguin has done a great review on the Zmax and apparently there's some good tech info there. Going over to read it now.
Like I said, in the real world this stuff doesn't mean much but it's fun to learn!

 

[skelley]

Yeah, I saw the zmax chart this past weekend on another forum. A different guy ran the numbers, but they were still the same.
The chart that SolemnPenguin posted looks exactly the same, but this guy was from Europe I believe.
Basically the zmax is a 4.2-5.5+ when you use vrms.

PWM....blah, I had one device and it was a coil popper, but that was my mileage.

Give me a filtered signal any day

 

[Rader2146]

Teaser....

More to come later.

 

[sinamven]

Great review. Just placed my order for the 6amp beast due to this. I still like my silver bullet but been looking for a vv so i could adjust the voltage for different types of juice but was discourage that they all seem to have a cut out. I like dual coils and am running 6.6v (voltage not tested under load just hooked up directly to the SB) to DC's that test at 2.7ohm (rated 2.0), so the idea of being forced to lower my voltage for the convenience of adjust-ability didn't appeal to me.
hopefully other manufacturers start taking notice. The people I get off cigs like the stacked cr123a experience better or head that way after I let them try my SB. It provides a 2-3 second drag that yields clouds of vapor. Coming off cigs most get frustrated taking 8-10 second drags off a 3.7v device and want something more like they are used to. Adding vv shouldn't limit your experience it should expand it by allowing you to make slight adjustments to different juices for flavor or TH.

 

[A17kawboy]

Teaser....

More to come later.

Sure wish I understood this.

 

[Rader2146]

Sure wish I understood this.

It is the inner workings of a good voltage regulator. I've been trying to get the Fluke software to work on my computer to upload good screenshots, but it doesn't want to play along. So what this means to the Average Joe is that a naked OKR-T6 regulator will provide a flat, low ripple DC output.

The red line is measured at the inductor input. This is the raw square wave signal that is generated by the internal switch turning on and off 600,000 times per second. If this were the output that went to the coil, it would "feel" like 5.79 volts when vaped. The blue line is the output voltage. The red line has been filtered and smoothed into a flat constant voltage with less than 100mV ripple.

Contrast this to the output of a Smoketech VMax/ZMax or Gripper (pic below)....

...and you get an output signal that can only be accurately read by special equipment and the "hits harder than what the display says" problem. The pic above is with the Gripper set at 3.0v, but "feels" like 4.23v.

I've built my personalized version of the SmokeTEK VariCool and have fallen in vape love. My original intentions were to built it to get my by until I could transplant my Gripper electronics into a new housing. Despite the lack of display or ability to tell me the resistance of my cartos and battery voltage (things that were nice to have, but really don't need), my OKR boxmod is now my all day vape. The Gripper currently resides in a drawer in my parts bin.

 

[BobbyDidge]

Does anyone know if getting the 6amp one compromises battery life as compared to the 3amp one? Also it's back and fourth about using protected batteries and it being fine and obviously cheaper. What to do what to do!

 

[billherbst]

Does anyone know if getting the 6amp one compromises battery life as compared to the 3amp one? Also it's back and fourth about using protected batteries and it being fine and obviously cheaper. What to do what to do!

I'm no authority, but I'll give you what I've got, which is my personal (and therefore anecdotal) experience with the Penguin tin dual-18650 VV that uses the 6-amp OKR/t6 switching regulator. I use protected 18650 ICRs in that with no problem at all (right now, the batteries in it are old Trustfire 2400mAh batts I had lying around from the back in the days of 3.7 volt tube mods). I get ridiculously great mileage (vaping time) from that set-up. I use many PVs every day, so I can't tell you in terms of hours, but I haven't had to swap out the Trustfires for two weeks now. I just checked them, and both batteries are still above 4.0 volts in charge---after two weeks of sporadic daily use.

I also have a wooden VV from Maximum Vapors that uses 3-amp OKR/t3 switching regulator, or so I believe. Like the SmokTeks, that box runs on two protected 14500s. The battery life I get from that mod is longer than on my Madvapes VV boxes (which use a less efficient linear regulator).

To reiterate, both mods perform beautifully with protected ICR Li-Ions. No need for high-drain IMRs.

 

[skelley]

When I first thought about going to 700mah 14500's from 2200mah 18650's, I thought I would need many sets of 14500's as I was only getting 10hrs max on the larger mah 18650's in my tube mods.
I get a good 12hrs+ of normal vaping time @4.2v on the 14500's in the 6amp Beast, then they go on the charger if they need it or not.
So I would say based on the above that the efficiency of the switching regulator makes all the difference.
I would contact smoktek and ask them if there is a difference between the 3 or 6 amp.

I'm using the Beast as my only VVPV and it's still rockin with no issues or complaints.
I've always used VVPV's since day one and I plan on getting another Beast to back up this one.

Does anyone know if getting the 6amp one compromises battery life as compared to the 3amp one? Also it's back and fourth about using protected batteries and it being fine and obviously cheaper. What to do what to do!

 

[DDD]

Has anyone had any problems with the build, as in connector or door stability.

 

[pete63]

Yes, The 510 connection tilts forward and the box is out of square on the switch side on the back. The box tapers in at the top so the back sticks out about 1mm on that side.