~The Billet BoX~

[Katdarling]

Hi Dan! Nice to see you in a NON Co Op thread...

 

[retird]

Yep, good to see Dan here.....years ago when I was searching for a great juice he kindly sent me some of his DIY tobacco and the "how to make it instructions"....but I lost the instructions....and it was very, very, very good tobacco.....hey Dan....good to see ya milling around with us.....

 

[Scubabatdan]

35mm Dan. Same as standard carto.

Thanks!

Oh man, I can't wait to see where this RBA project goes. Can I give you my money now? Lol

LOL, ummm no

That would be 40 mm, on average, including the connector, with the center pin flush with the bottom.

Length looks good. Diameter sounds just a smidgen small ... almost all of my cartomizers, the Diver, etc. measure about 9.20~9.25 mm.

Sounds simple enough (note that does NOT mean I think it was "easy" to design. )

Couple of questions:

Thanks for the info, will try and answer your Q's

- Will/can it use just resistance wire, or will it require NR wire?

Either way should work, but with NR wire you can make more ohm accurate coils.

- Will the center pin "float" a bit? Meaning, will it have some play to be a bit proud or shy of flush with the bottom of the connector, like a regular cartomizer? This is kind of handy for any devices with a fixed positive pin, and in the BB provides helps the connector seal against the silicon gasket.

Yes it is just like a standard atty connector with the silicone buffer.

- Will there be air holes in or just above the threads in the connector, like a standard cartomizer? This turns out to be a semi-fatal weakness in the Diver when used with a BB.

No, the only hole will be in the center pin, so the PV must be carto "center pin" friendly.

Probably don't have to tell you, if you'd like a guinea pig beta tester, just send a li'l ol' PM this way and I'm sure someone on the other end will display an appropriate level of interest.

LOL, kinda figured I would get beta tester request. You would be the first in line if I need a beta tester.

Hi Dan! Nice to see you in a NON Co Op thread...

Hey nice to be seen! LOL
How goes it!?

BTW I got my tank tonight, and had to modify it for test purposes, so it told me one thing I need to move the wick up about 5mm, redesign time I am currently using a 2ohm coil on a mech mod and it is dang good. Here is a sneaky peek since you really can't see anything BWahahahahaha.

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Yep, good to see Dan here.....years ago when I was searching for a great juice he kindly sent me some of his DIY tobacco and the "how to make it instructions"....but I lost the instructions....and it was very, very, very good tobacco.....hey Dan....good to see ya milling around with us.....

Hey there!

Recipe for tobacco juice :

Makes 30ml of flavoring:

Buy the following:
TA (Tobacco Absolute) from TFA
Cotton candy (EM 10% in pg) from TFA
1/2 ounce sample bottle of concentrated flavoring (Commercial cigarette) TOB506 from seedmans.com

Do the following:
Heat TA bottle in hot water and add two drops of TA to 15ml EM (cotton candy) Shake until mixed.
Add above to the 1/2oz (15ml approx.) of seedmans TOB506

Shake until mixed.

Use at 10% flavoring in your juice mix.

Cheers!
Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

RBA Carto in action

Dan

 

[Vapian]

No, the only hole will be in the center pin, so the PV must be carto "center pin" friendly.

Thanks for the info!

It'll be good in a 510-threaded mod no doubt but that might make for an "iffy" performance in a stock Billet Box, based on this past week's experience with the Diver.

For those interested I'll be putting out a Diver/BB update sometime this weekend detailing what's gone on this week, and hopefully one or two last experiments I hope to perform tomorrow afternoon (if I can work up the courage to do a little grinding inside my BB ... <shudder>).

 

[Scubabatdan]

Thanks for the info!

It'll be good in a 510-threaded mod no doubt but that might make for an "iffy" performance in a stock Billet Box, based on this past week's experience with the Diver.

For those interested I'll be putting out a Diver/BB update sometime this weekend detailing what's gone on this week, and hopefully one or two last experiments I hope to perform tomorrow afternoon (if I can work up the courage to do a little grinding inside my BB ... <shudder>).

Does the Diver have a slotted center pin? Haven't seen one, The center pin I am using is slotted and works well with my mech mod, but sucks in a provari, or should I say does not suck LOL. Might have to add the side holes if that is a problem

Dan

 

[Vapian]

Does the Diver have a slotted center pin? Haven't seen one, The center pin I am using is slotted and works well with my mech mod, but sucks in a provari, or should I say does not suck LOL. Might have to add the side holes if that is a problem

Diver center pin is slotted on the bottom. Plus there are channels milled down the sides of the connector threads, and very shallow divots at the bottom of those channels for air to the center pin. There are pics of all but the center pin back a few posts, inside the BB for a pretty clear shot of the potential gasket issue.

 

[Big Screen D]

Not needing to be concerned with a negative connection at the base for use in a BB, unlike the Diver, this contraption should have no issue with restricted air-flo due to the BB gasket. Also, should one find the this RBA carto to be more airy than personal preference, the base can be ground down a bit to restrict air-flow through the slots. The top tube may need to be a bit longer to do so, but if only a small amount is removed, may not be needed.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Diver center pin is slotted on the bottom. Plus there are channels milled down the sides of the connector threads, and very shallow divots at the bottom of those channels for air to the center pin. There are pics of all but the center pin back a few posts, inside the BB for a pretty clear shot of the potential gasket issue.

Ok got a look at it, so basically a flat bottom pin for sealing with air holes above. That actually would be easy to implement. Now can this use a flanged carto? Or is an un-flanged carto better? Would to be easy to make two version of the bottom that uses the same top tube.

Not needing to be concerned with a negative connection at the base for use in a BB, unlike the Diver, this contraption should have no issue with restricted air-flo due to the BB gasket. Also, should one find the this RBA carto to be more airy than personal preference, the base can be ground down a bit to restrict air-flow through the slots. The top tube may need to be a bit longer to do so, but if only a small amount is removed, may not be needed.

Nice, got a link to the build of that? Not to sound negative, but not everyone has the skill set to solder, cut, press and cobble one of those together. I would like to see a commercial one made and sold for around 20.00 bucks out of SS that could be used in any tank system. All depends on how much tooling will be per piece.

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

Here is the revisions I did on the bottom piece, removed the flange, increased the oring contact area to 10mm to raise the wick higher into the tank, and added air holes above the threading. Yes I want to make this adaptable to any tank system. Can make a bottom piece with the flange stop.

Flanged version:

Questions/Ideas?

Dan

 

[Hokus]

Looks awesome Dan!

Would love to see a way to incorporate ss wick or ceramics.. I'm no good with building the fabric wicks

 

[Big Screen D]

Ok got a look at it, so basically a flat bottom pin for sealing with air holes above. That actually would be easy to implement. Now can this use a flanged carto? Or is an un-flanged carto better? Would to be easy to make two version of the bottom that uses the same top tube.



Nice, got a link to the build of that? Not to sound negative, but not everyone has the skill set to solder, cut, press and cobble one of those together. I would like to see a commercial one made and sold for around 20.00 bucks out of SS that could be used in any tank system. All depends on how much tooling will be per piece.

Dan

Here ya go Dan. While it's not hard to build at all, I agree 100% it would be nice to see one made for purchase. Hoping that Doug incorporates this basic design into a BB specific RBA. It really does work well.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-evod-head-prototype-mod-billet-box-only.html

 

[Hokus]

I wish I was crafty like you guys

 

[Big Screen D]

Here is the revisions I did on the bottom piece, removed the flange, increased the oring contact area to 10mm to raise the wick higher into the tank, and added air holes above the threading. Yes I want to make this adaptable to any tank system. Can make a bottom piece with the flange stop.

Flanged version:

Questions/Ideas?

Dan

Raising the wick holes will pretty much insure the need for NR wouldn't it? Unless you can make the grommet and post long enough to reach just below the coil.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Here ya go Dan. While it's not hard to build at all, I agree 100% it would be nice to see one made for purchase. Hoping that Doug incorporates this basic design into a BB specific RBA. It really does work well.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-evod-head-prototype-mod-billet-box-only.html

Looks good! Great build, my only beef with that is the brass is in contact with the juice. I have rod of titanium here I will try the next version with, and incorporate the modification changes above with no flange. Guess I could get in contact with Doug and see if he is up for an added project
Dan

 

[Big Screen D]

I wish I was crafty like you guys

Lol, feeling real handy bout right now. Fixed my broken EVIC this morning.

 

[Big Screen D]

Looks good! Great build, my only beef with that is the brass is in contact with the juice. I have rod of titanium here I will try the next version with, and incorporate the modification changes above with no flange. Guess I could get in contact with Doug and see if he is up for an added project
Dan

I"m able to get rid of most of the brass by using a SS 901-510 adapter in place of the chromed one in the pic. Still have some where the EVOD base ring has to be ground down tho. Any ideas what I could coat that area with?

 

[Scubabatdan]

Raising the wick holes will pretty much insure the need for NR wouldn't it? Unless you can make the grommet and post long enough to reach just below the coil.

True, I am just going off my first tank experience LOL, and not sure what the dim's of the BB are as far as distances between points to make an accurate design build.

IE. Distance from seal to tank, Thickness from outside to inside tank.

But as in the past I have always used twisted legs to resolve the need for NR wire.

Good point on the center post and grommet length.

Dan

 

[Scubabatdan]

I"m able to get rid of most of the brass by using a SS 901-510 adapter in place of the chromed one in the pic. Still have some where the EVOD base ring has to be ground down tho. Any ideas what I could coat that area with?

Dip it in vinegar, it will etch the brass and give it an patina layer.
http://www.howtoantiquebrass.com/how-to-antique-brass-with-vinegar/
Dan