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Curious what ohm value & length you like with the Diver?
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I like .8 to 1.2 on all my attys but I run them on mechs. If I used them regulated I'd go for the higher resistance...2.0 ohm +
What's going on with BB btw? Nothing has been posted about the next batch.
What's going on with BB btw? Nothing has been posted about the next batch.
electronics are stupid update:
what a load of poo the past two weeks have been. Some things happened and i had to do stuff to combat the things. Buffer came back still not fixed (well, half fixed), left again, and just got back this last tuesday... have a new guy buffing and he's doing great, so that's nice... soooo we finally have a nice big stack of buffed BBs to actually put together and stuff...
this downtime of the buffer tuned out to be pretty inconsequential on the whole however, as something was starting to happen that i needed to nip in thebud @$$ asap... Buttons were dying. In particular were two BBs that were sent to me with super dead buttons, i fixed, sent back, and within a day, they died again.... so W-T-F, we didn't change anything, if nothing else our process for making circuit boards has gotten way way mega better as we've gone along.. and i know a few 'round this forum with day one releases have never had any issue (myself included and i have the oldest one in existence).... so again, w-t'f... something changed on the power side of things... batteries or charger or something,,, This sucks because i can't diagnose WHAT exactly was doing this as the problem is not the part that is returned to me... however it seems to be happening with newer AW cells,,, what that means, i have no idea, but i can't change what's going on there. What i CAN do however, is just totally bypass anything that COULD have done it (what "IT" is, is arcing the button)... so i did. I wanted this solved now, so i dropped everything to fix it, and that meant redesigning the board. Unfortunately, redesigning, troubleshooting, debugging and bring to full scale production of an entirely new analog circuit takes something more than a few days... throw in some bad luck, and here i am... but they're done, they work, and the first final batch is now sitting here quietly waiting to be thrown into some boxes..
The new boards are transistor activated instead of ground activated, and all this means is that they turn on and off differently. Their behavior otherwise is very much the same, with a few things being improved such as voltage ramp and ummm,, ok, maybe only that. They are based on a new semiconductor chip that (aside from requiring nightshift to do two solid days worth or algebra) incorporates the on off function, and this will keep any weird $h!t on the battery side from damaging the switch...
Now i need to stress this point, i don not know what the hell was causing this, and it dose not mean that the cells that were doing this are bad... My best guess is that the charging circuit in one cell was just asking for power differently than some other cells, OR a larger than average cell discharge imbalance was asking for one cell to be charge at a time is shouldn't be.. i'm shooting in the dark here, but again, this does not necessarily mean that the cell is bad.. i can't vouch for the cause, just fix the effect. Ironically, when i originally designed the board I was going to make it transistor activated instead of ground activated but it was a compatibility issue with tenergys circuit protection in their cells that made me change it in the first place. The problem with the tenergy cells was just that after their protection tripped, they would not turn on again unless the battery was wack'd out and put back in... those cells were 3v not 3.7 had a low discharge ability so they would only hit about 4.8v anyway... but none the less i was attempting to make the board as compatible as possible... This chip inside this new board was not available at that time, and is compatible with the Tenergys... but i doubt anyone uses those anywayz so kinda a moot point...
so that's it, I have changed the rev number engraved on the slide cover to Rev 3 (though a few dozen or so Rev 2s will go out with the new board)... but that is the only change, just her electro guts...
on a side note, this was a giant b1tc# of a project... 5 prototype traces (5 rounds of cam programing) 400 bad boards thrown in the trash, the copper turned Rubys coolant green, nightshift got mad at me and hit me in the face, and my computer froze and i lost an arm in a knife fight (last and third to last events are fictitious to add drama),, but any rate, i'm sooo burnt out after this BS and happy to get back on track with our production, feeling good that this issue is dead and buried.
back to assembly on monday, and new BBs will be up this week..
i'll be back a bit later tonight to catch up on the thread and touch on a few other thingys,
what a load of poo the past two weeks have been. Some things happened and i had to do stuff to combat the things. Buffer came back still not fixed (well, half fixed), left again, and just got back this last tuesday... have a new guy buffing and he's doing great, so that's nice... soooo we finally have a nice big stack of buffed BBs to actually put together and stuff...
this downtime of the buffer tuned out to be pretty inconsequential on the whole however, as something was starting to happen that i needed to nip in the
The new boards are transistor activated instead of ground activated, and all this means is that they turn on and off differently. Their behavior otherwise is very much the same, with a few things being improved such as voltage ramp and ummm,, ok, maybe only that. They are based on a new semiconductor chip that (aside from requiring nightshift to do two solid days worth or algebra) incorporates the on off function, and this will keep any weird $h!t on the battery side from damaging the switch...
Now i need to stress this point, i don not know what the hell was causing this, and it dose not mean that the cells that were doing this are bad... My best guess is that the charging circuit in one cell was just asking for power differently than some other cells, OR a larger than average cell discharge imbalance was asking for one cell to be charge at a time is shouldn't be.. i'm shooting in the dark here, but again, this does not necessarily mean that the cell is bad.. i can't vouch for the cause, just fix the effect. Ironically, when i originally designed the board I was going to make it transistor activated instead of ground activated but it was a compatibility issue with tenergys circuit protection in their cells that made me change it in the first place. The problem with the tenergy cells was just that after their protection tripped, they would not turn on again unless the battery was wack'd out and put back in... those cells were 3v not 3.7 had a low discharge ability so they would only hit about 4.8v anyway... but none the less i was attempting to make the board as compatible as possible... This chip inside this new board was not available at that time, and is compatible with the Tenergys... but i doubt anyone uses those anywayz so kinda a moot point...
so that's it, I have changed the rev number engraved on the slide cover to Rev 3 (though a few dozen or so Rev 2s will go out with the new board)... but that is the only change, just her electro guts...
on a side note, this was a giant b1tc# of a project... 5 prototype traces (5 rounds of cam programing) 400 bad boards thrown in the trash, the copper turned Rubys coolant green, nightshift got mad at me and hit me in the face, and my computer froze and i lost an arm in a knife fight (last and third to last events are fictitious to add drama),, but any rate, i'm sooo burnt out after this BS and happy to get back on track with our production, feeling good that this issue is dead and buried.
back to assembly on monday, and new BBs will be up this week..
i'll be back a bit later tonight to catch up on the thread and touch on a few other thingys,
Sounds like one helluva a two weeks. Glad to hear you've survived without losing an arm...
For use in the BB, I'd recommend 2.8 or 3.0 ohms -- certainly no lower than 2.5 ohms. Much below that and the BB's relatively high low end (4.0 volts) is going to run the coil rather hot; much above and it probably won't run it hot enough.
Thanks so much Rivernut and Vapian, greatly appreciate that information. I do remember getting the cartos around 2.4ish ohm giving me a pretty raunchy flavor. So I will try the higher ohm values.
Is there a particular length that is easier for the Diver? Thanks in advance.
Vapian, we need to chat sometime about home theater stuff! Also, I am not in the Navy, but might as well be since I work for a bunch of old Navy Admirals (not going to call them what I should) and it sure feels like a sinking nuc sub being in the gov contractor business (DOE Nuc).
Anyway, thanks again...and may the vape be with you. Crap that was corny, but sounded better in my head.
-=J
Is there a particular length that is easier for the Diver? Thanks in advance.
Vapian, we need to chat sometime about home theater stuff! Also, I am not in the Navy, but might as well be since I work for a bunch of old Navy Admirals (not going to call them what I should) and it sure feels like a sinking nuc sub being in the gov contractor business (DOE Nuc).
Anyway, thanks again...and may the vape be with you. Crap that was corny, but sounded better in my head.
-=J
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Doug, brother....relax and have a homebrew. You deserve it after that week. And next time your in a knife fight, bring a big gun....hehehe.
-=J
I'm kind of new to the BB scene but I'm very impressed with how this is all done in house. And the way Doug jumped on what looks to be a relatively isolated issue to completely eradicate it from happening again makes me want one of these even more.
@Drunk_J the last time I tried cartos, they were raunchy at any resistance ...maybe they've gotten better though.
It will take a little experimenting on the Diver to find what works best for you but once you find it, odds are very slim you'll ever do another carto
@Drunk_J the last time I tried cartos, they were raunchy at any resistance ...maybe they've gotten better though.
It will take a little experimenting on the Diver to find what works best for you but once you find it, odds are very slim you'll ever do another carto
Thanks so much Rivernut and Vapian, greatly appreciate that information. I do remember getting the cartos around 2.4ish ohm giving me a pretty raunchy flavor. So I will try the higher ohm values.
No problem!
Normal 510 cartos are about 40 mm total from top to bottom of the atty connector. When I enshortened my Divers I made them about 39.5~ish mm when completely screwed down, to allow for some variation when used in other devices. To make it 40 mm, just back the tube off a notch -- the o-ring will still seal. HOWEVER, I STRONGLY recommend FIRST going for 40 mm when completely screwed down, and see how that works. You can always take away more if you have to but you can't just add it back.
Well, I know more about HT than I do with HT.
In my part of the biz wiring closets and home-run/head-end installs are the norm, and frankly I'd rather have the kit I need where I need it. That way there's always a backup and little chance that driving a nail to hang a picture is going to take the whole system down.Now, if you're a contractor you may not really want to talk to me. I worked at NAVSEA PMS450 for a while...
Now, if you're a contractor you may not really want to talk to me. I worked at NAVSEA PMS450 for a while...
Haha, not that kind of contractor.
Dear DD,
I was 100% sure that my BB leaked due to the Diver I had installed, but there is no liquid around the base, nor the top. Maybe some liquid due to condensation on the brass.
But today I've noticed there is a tiny gap between the delrin and the PETG face..
Got me thinking this might be the case.
Is this even possible?
TQ!
ummm, it would be a rare thing to leak there.. the capillary action just kinda likes to hold juice in between the delrin and the face in that tiny slit.. from the pic i can see that the silicon gasket is putting good pressure on the face by the face being snug under the screws and pushed out by the silicon a bit in between the screws... so that's a good sign... have you had any leaking with just a carto? a leak free diver is a "little tricky" to "black wizard magic" to set up.
i'v seen a few of them j wrap styles and they are pretty neat-o, i like the idea of just doing the sides of the aluminum and not the real carbon fiber plates though.... it's just kinda a shame to cover up the real stuff (witch is tough as snot to scratch anyway) with the vinyl carbon lookalike... but they also had a cool black wrap with some geometric swirlys things going on that looked pretty neat too...LOL, I was going to recommend the clear ones for you. No, the wraps don't cover the corners, but the corners don't scratch up! You're golden, your Drunkness.
fun fact : the raw material of carbon fiber in one BB costs more than the entire raw stock aluminum for the three main pieces the BB's cut from (body,sidecover, innerplate)... it's close, but the carbon wins for money costing... ("the more you know" with some rainbow'y shooting star under it")
^^^^
I had this same thing happen today. My Diver pin was the culprit, but it looks like it is on the tank. Guess it just got sucked up around the edges, but not actually leaking for the BB tank since you can see the gasket is fully engaged around the face. Amazing that a little tiny leak around the Diver pin gets blasted all over the inside...yuk. Gotta get my pin fixed quick. Hopefully I can at least buy a new Diver base. Glad someone earlier in the thread pointed out this area for me to check out, as it was the cause. Had to go back to cartos until I can get it resolved. As soon as I did put in a carto....no more leak.
-=J
I had this same thing happen today. My Diver pin was the culprit, but it looks like it is on the tank. Guess it just got sucked up around the edges, but not actually leaking for the BB tank since you can see the gasket is fully engaged around the face. Amazing that a little tiny leak around the Diver pin gets blasted all over the inside...yuk. Gotta get my pin fixed quick. Hopefully I can at least buy a new Diver base. Glad someone earlier in the thread pointed out this area for me to check out, as it was the cause. Had to go back to cartos until I can get it resolved. As soon as I did put in a carto....no more leak.
-=J
Totally agree and I am removing my wrap. For anyone buying it, the wrap is great, but it changes the appearance from shiny to satin. I like my shiny finish! Might just have to polish it more.
wow, what a pic! absolutely beautiful! Thanks for putting that up!Box from the past vs Box from present....
There is a little rubbery piece inside each carto that serves the purpose of both insulation and is supposed to push out on the cartos positive pin.. sometimes "and it seems to run in batches" that little sucker just isn't set right and will not push the pin back out but allow the pos pin to recess and stay that way.. i have had a few like that where i just grabbed the carto pin and pulled it out and that seems to buy some life out of the thing.. but another thing you could try is just remove the red ring and see if that will let ya screw it down a bit further..
Precisely what I did with mine, Sir Grapefruit Man. I love love love the real carbon fiber, so I only wrapped the sides, top and bottom. And plus 1 on that mosaic-y pattern... pretty coolio beanios!
Anyone got updates on BB release? F5ing the same site is getting boring. Lol.
Sign up with a site that tracks changes on a specific website? If it changes, it sends you an email (I used my email address that texts me on my phone). I used ChangeDetection - Know when any web page changes
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