~The Billet BoX~

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Akdare

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Got it open. Can't close the lid back all the way. Closes to tightly. Have it ever so slightly ajar. The track bent and one corner of the lid it rough and pulled up inside. Going to go at it with a dremil. Smooth it out.
e2e3ura8.jpg

Be sure and really clean the tracks and lid well with alcohol. And lube the tracks and ball with a bit of olive oil.

It's hard to tell from your pic (and I'm sure hard to take a better one) exactly where it it bent. Be careful with the dremel. Aluminum is really soft...you might try with hand tools first. Flat screwdriver, fine grit sandpaper, etc. Or just use the dremel bit with your hand.


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Akdare

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I know most of the these are no brainers, but just a troubleshooting checklist:

*Battery polarity
*Tried different batteries
*Clean brass/aluminum threading with cloth that leaves no residue
*Recheck tightness of brass ring
*Tried different carto
*Volt meter check from contact to case while firing
*Are you using cartos or building your own....and are you using protected batteries (black - not the AW or eFest reds).

Ok...now my BB won't work. It will fire, but only for a second...

Thought it was the diver I've been messing about with all weekend. But it won't fire a carto either. Meters 4.5v (correctly) from center contact to case. Also from contact to brass thingy when installed. Cleaned both contact and brass ground with emery cloth, and wiped with alcohol. No change.

Both the carto and diver fire fine on my Provari.

Seems that it won't fire when under a load...std resistance carto, and 2.4 ohm coil on the diver...

Suggestions?



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ThreeDJ16

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Ok...now my BB won't work. It will fire, but only for a second...

Thought it was the diver I've been messing about with all weekend. But it won't fire a carto either. Meters 4.5v (correctly) from center contact to case. Also from contact to brass thingy when installed. Cleaned both contact and brass ground with emery cloth, and wiped with alcohol. No change.

Both the carto and diver fire fine on my Provari.

Seems that it won't fire when under a load...std resistance carto, and 2.4 ohm coil on the diver...

Suggestions?



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Have you tried a fresh set of batteries? Mine acts weird when batteries are low.
 

ThreeDJ16

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Another odd thing that has happened to me was one time cleaned the brass screw with a little toilet paper. Was being lazy again and some was close. Well even with high quality brands a little paper fuzz rubs off and that caused me to have an intermittent connection. So in my suggestions that is why I mentioned residue free. But I see you stated cleaning with alcohol. So provided you used cloth in conjunction that should be fine. Anyway just thought it was worth mentioning.
 

Akdare

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Another odd thing that has happened to me was one time cleaned the brass screw with a little toilet paper. Was being lazy again and some was close. Well even with high quality brands a little paper fuzz rubs off and that caused me to have an intermittent connection. So in my suggestions that is why I mentioned residue free. But I see you stated cleaning with alcohol. So provided you used cloth in conjunction that should be fine. Anyway just thought it was worth mentioning.

I think I used a paper towel. I'll clean them again tomorrow with a cloth.


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V4Vendetta

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And the positive pins stick out enough to make contact, right? I've had some IKV cartos that just won't fire. I think it's positive pin issue but since I have something like 5 or 6 divers (V1 and V2s combined) I didn't bother finding out why.

I always make sure diver pins stick out. Sometimes on V1 that's an issue. I've replaced two V1 with o-rings and now the positive pins are definitely sticking out on those.

If all fails, I'm sure Doug/BB will help you (I'd hope so).

I think I scored my second BB in the secondary market so no more staying up past my bedtime (middle of the night in Asia), only to lose out :)
 

V4Vendetta

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BTW, thanks to whomever it was that mentioned the Diver V1 O-ring mod. Looks like it will work out great. Have completed the mod, just haven't had a chance to fire it up for a test. If anyone else is ever interested, send me a PM.

I think the credit goes to "Kataphraktos"on long running Diver thread. 2mm x 1.5mm o ring to replace the insulator on the bottom section of Diver V1 (Diver V2 comes with o-rings on that section).
 

ThreeDJ16

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I think the credit goes to "Kataphraktos"on long running Diver thread. 2mm x 1.5mm o ring to replace the insulator on the bottom section of Diver V1 (Diver V2 comes with o-rings on that section).


Cool, thanks Kataphraktos....looks like a good fix. I ordered the O-rings from Amazon, shipped free and now I have like 97 of those suckers left....hahaha. More than willing to pay forward the good deed as people on this forum are great, hit me with a PM if interested!
 

Kataphraktos

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BTW, thanks to whomever it was that mentioned the Diver V1 O-ring mod. Looks like it will work out great. Have completed the mod, just haven't had a chance to fire it up for a test. If anyone else is ever interested, send me a PM.

FYI, for anyone who needs the o-rings, I have a bag of well over 300 of them, I send them out in an envelope for whoever needs them states-side, gratis. These o-rings are the same used in the v2, so they can be used as replacements for that as well. I also include a few of the 6x1 o-rings that the v1 uses below the top threads, where the base and tube connect.
 

Kataphraktos

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I think I used a paper towel. I'll clean them again tomorrow with a cloth.


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Keep us posted either here or in the Diver thread. Sounds to me like this might be a BB issue at this point, which really sucks. If it was a Diver issue, I'd send you one of mine to try out, but my BB? You are prying that from my Cold. Dead. Fingers.

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ThreeDJ16

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FYI, for anyone who needs the o-rings, I have a bag of well over 300 of them, I send them out in an envelope for whoever needs them states-side, gratis. These o-rings are the same used in the v2, so they can be used as replacements for that as well. I also include a few of the 6x1 o-rings that the v1 uses below the top threads, where the base and tube connect.

Doh, I didn't think about ordering the O-rings for the top threaded section. Though if I am not mistaken, that is the same size as a drip tip O-ring which I should have plenty. Thanks for that info too!
 
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