~The Billet BoX~

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Scubabatdan

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That's not quite right. The battery voltage is 7.4V end of story. That will never change. Obviously the voltage lowers the more you use it, but the calcs will still be the same for both of those scenarios.

With the case of a 1.8 Ohm load, like an Aspire head; This Will deplete faster than a 3 Ohm carto set at 4.9V or a 2 Ohm carto set at 4V. Why? Because 4V is the lowest the BB can go. At it's lowest, the BB will be delivering more than 8 Watts to a 1.8 Ohm Aspire head. THAT is why people are getting less battery life. Also, it makes the comparisons not like for like. :)

I see your point in that the BB delivers 7.4vdc to the step down and is constant regardless of output voltage setting. But since the BB's lowest setting is 4vdc, the end user can achieve longer battery life by selecting a wattage below what the BB outputs at 4vdc and 1.8ohms by using a higher ohm carto and selecting a lower wattage output, this has been my point all along.
You are defiantly correct that at the same wattage through the BB circuits, the battery life will be the same if the wattage were the same regardless of ohms.
Dan
 

Kataphraktos

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'Tis refreshing to see Americans arguing math and science. I spent Saturday evening arguing the finer points of vaping and chemicals present in eliquids with a highly-renowned plastic surgeon. She told me the ingredients patients could not use prior to surgery, and she misquoted the scientific name of every single chemical (PG, VG, etc.). Then, when I corrected her, she said these chemicals cause cancer, as does nicotine.

Needless to say, I declined her invitation to enter her cab and accompany her home, and took the subway and a small cup of ice cream as consolation prize instead. I can forgive a pair of bad legs, but bad science gets a red card, a red shirt and a spot on the next away mission.
 

Scubabatdan

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'Tis refreshing to see Americans arguing math and science. I spent Saturday evening arguing the finer points of vaping and chemicals present in eliquids with a highly-renowned plastic surgeon. She told me the ingredients patients could not use prior to surgery, and she misquoted the scientific name of every single chemical (PG, VG, etc.). Then, when I corrected her, she said these chemicals cause cancer, as does nicotine.

Needless to say, I declined her invitation to enter her cab and accompany her home, and took the subway and a small cup of ice cream as consolation prize instead. I can forgive a pair of bad legs, but bad science gets a red card, a red shirt and a spot on the next away mission.

HAHAHAHAHA
Dan
 

finagle69

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I see your point in that the BB delivers 7.4vdc to the step down and is constant regardless of output voltage setting. But since the BB's lowest setting is 4vdc, the end user can achieve longer battery life by selecting a wattage below what the BB outputs at 4vdc and 1.8ohms by using a higher ohm carto and selecting a lower wattage output, this has been my point all along.
You are defiantly correct that at the same wattage through the BB circuits, the battery life will be the same if the wattage were the same regardless of ohms.
Dan

I agree with your point! If you want longer battery life, use a lower wattage. It's demonstrably incorrect to only say "use a higher ohm carto (etc.)" :)
 

ThreeDJ16

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I agree with your point! If you want longer battery life, use a lower wattage. It's demonstrably incorrect to only say "use a higher ohm carto (etc.)" :)

Wow. I may break out in song now! I sure hope another EE stating this finally takes this dead and beat up horse to the glue factory, then uses said glue to seal the great wattage wars of 2014 doors shut. Haha :laugh:
 

ThreeDJ16

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Buying a diver v2 for my yet to be delivered bb. Should it be flanged? The 35mm part I know, but not sure about the flange.
I don't think the v2 has a flanged option, but no you don't want a flange in the BB.

edit - Yeah, just checked and non flanged is the only option.
 
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Kataphraktos

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Buying a diver v2 for my yet to be delivered bb. Should it be flanged? The 35mm part I know, but not sure about the flange.

Flangeless, there are instructions on the Atmistique site about how to purchase for a BB. I strongly suggest you select the v1 pin as well, it seems to work better than the v2 pin.
 

V4Vendetta

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Buying a diver v2 for my yet to be delivered bb. Should it be flanged? The 35mm part I know, but not sure about the flange.

I would disagree with others. I have both flanged and non-flanged version of V2 and they both fit into BB. If for some reason flange version is a bit too tall, it can sand down easy using 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

I personally like the flange version because it will never pop through from bottom up (which I have done with flangeless version spilling juice all over). YMMV.

V1 pin is a good idea though as it does breathe better than V2 pin.
 

Kataphraktos

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I would disagree with others. I have both flanged and non-flanged version of V2 and they both fit into BB. If for some reason flange version is a bit too tall, it can sand down easy using 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

I personally like the flange version because it will never pop through from bottom up (which I have done with flangeless version spilling juice all over). YMMV.

V1 pin is a good idea though as it does breathe better than V2 pin.

Agreed, my flanged work just as well. In fact, I just picked up 2 BB tanks to be able to swap juices and will be using 2 existing flanged Divers in them. I only pointed this out because, if anything goes awry, they are being used as intended, so it minimizes "user error". Not that Konstantinos wouldn't address any issues, of course.
 
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