The easiest to rebuild?

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Plumes.91

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I ONLY drip. I don't use any tanks. I either top feed on RDAs or I use my Reo. The only atomizers I've used for a year now have been the A7 bottom feeding atomizers. The air comes from the atomizer's 510 connection's holes, and a hole in the center post. The air travels through the bottom body of the atomizer and is sucked to right below your coil, through a raised tube with a hole in it in the center of the rebuilding deck. This means that this little air tube supplies a ton of air right UNDER your coil, which is ideal in my opinion. This little air tube doubles as a juice tube when your using the A7 on bottom fed mods, such as the REO and the BoggerBox. The juice travels from a bottle inside of the mod. You press the bottle, and juice travels through a tube connected to the special bottom feeding 510 connection. The juice is sucked up through the air channel in the A7 and it wets your wick precisely & efficiently.

For this reason, I love A7 atomizers. However, they CAN be a bit difficult to tame. The posts inside of the A7 are actually facetted to the atomizer by threads. This means that the posts can be unscrewed, allowing for reconfiguration of the wire holes. This is more of a curse than a blessing. If the posts were stationary, facing each other, it'd be fine for small coils using a thinner kanthal. But since the posts can be screwed to different increments, the A7 allows for longer coils, with 26-28g kanthal as well. This would be fine, if the posts didn't move when your trying to tighten or loosen the kanthal screws in each post... You can overtighten or loosen the posts!

Beyond that, the A7 has an adjustable center pin. This is also a blessing and a curse. This basically means that the center pin can adjust into the A7s 510 connection, or a good bit OUT of it's 510 connection. This can allow for flush-mounting on mods that don't normally allow for flush mounting.. Mods with center pins that were made too long for use with button top batteries, such as the natural. The PROBLEM with this, is that if your using the A7 with the center post unscrewed all the way, it can (& eventually will) short your mod button, spring, or the battery out. So you've got to be careful with that, especially on mechanical mods.

Other than these quirks & limitations, the A7 delivers, by far, the best vapor out of any RDA I've tried. There is no worrying about a hole in the top cap aligning with the coil. The juice well is deep enough to allow for at least 2 separate entire vape sessions. (with cotton) Since the air hole is in a raised tube, you don't have to worry about over juicing. Your coil can easily be made above the posts. Since it is a screw top atomizer, you never have to worry about the top cap & drip tip staying in your mouth, as your mod drops to the ground. Since the juice well is so deep, you can take 20 hits before redripping. NO airhole aligning needed. NO easily broken ceramic parts. Replacement screws are found online easily. Entirely made of stainless steel, NO brass parts as far as I know.

All for under $20. The A7 is by far my favorite atomizer. Unfortunately, they aren't as popular as they should be, and the company doesn't typically put their company name behind their products. I believe the A7 is made by "Sailing" though, I could be wrong. Sailing has consistently made good quality APV components, but they just don't get the spotlight very often. Its like the makers of the Vamo. Who makes the Vamo? Smoktech? Kanger? Sailing? Rainbow? Teardrop? Redbull? I have no idea. I'm guessing the Vamo is made by different companies, similar to how the Lavatube V.1 and later the Lambo were made by many different companies.

All I know is, the A7 is a fantastic atomizer that deserves more respect. I am very unsatisfied with the current RDAs & clones on the market. They either have screw-on caps with airholes too small or unaligned with where the optimum spot for a coil is... Or, they are fitted with poor fitting O ring caps that slip off with the faintest pull on the drip tip, getting your hand dosed in nicotine and potentially dropping your new $100 mod to the floor. The A7 got it right the first time, and I cannot believe there aren't more bottom air-fed atomizers on the market. I cannot believe no one has cloned the A7. Especially considering there are so many Reo lovers out there.

On top of this... The A7 is becoming increasingly difficult to find. Some companies are price gouging at $17-20 a piece. Some are selling these at $12-16 dollars a piece. I think it should be a $10 atomizer, WIDELY available. As available as the Igo-L, honestly. I don't think it needs much improvement, and I can't believe this bottom-air bottom-feedable RDA design hasn't skyrocketed in popularity. Unfortunately, I'm sure this post will sell 50 units on the website that shoots to the top of the search engines for A7 atomizer. Thats how ECF works. I already have two and I can't afford a 3rd, so have at it. I just needed to share that the A7 is by far my favorite RDA.
 
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wedoitall

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Yep, they're the ones I was eluding to. I have a few spools of their wire on the way, but didn't want to recommend it without trying it.
But Temco is only a few cents more and always excellent.

Do they ship pretty fast? I went out and bought me a jig and about everything else I need(ultrasonic cleaner included) now I just need some wire .......fast :)
 

Mudsh0v3l

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Do they ship pretty fast? I went out and bought me a jig and about everything else I need(ultrasonic cleaner included) now I just need some wire .......fast :)

TEMCO ships stupid fast. I ordered a 100' roll of 28 awg Kanthal @ 10 pm on Thursday and had it Saturday afternoon. Shipped by USPS and was free. However they are in Cali and I live in Arizona.
 

havok333

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Do they ship pretty fast? I went out and bought me a jig and about everything else I need(ultrasonic cleaner included) now I just need some wire .......fast :)

I usually get my orders in about three or four business days, and I'm on the east coast. Pretty good for USPS.

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scrappy

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I'd pass on the igo-l if I was you. The airhole is tiny and that steel is thick and hard to drill through. There's only two posts and you have to wrap the wire around the screw. When you tighten it down the wire will turn on you distorting your coil. It's much harder to build on than a atty with post holes. You also can't do parallel coils and twisted wire is a pain. Something like the trident will do everything from single coils to quad coils, and has an adjustable airflow. I think they're $10 from fasttech. Heck, you could probably pick up a trident and helios clones for $20.
 

Bosco

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In my regular rotation are IGO-L, IGO-W, cyclone clone, Kayfun lite+ and Trident clone.

The easiest to build by far is the Kayfun lite+. The way the coil is mounted in an S vs a C just makes it easier for me to capture the leads. I never seem to get hotspots or wicking issues.

Next easiest is the Trident clone in single coil mode. I like the oversize post-caps and any atty where you can slide the wire through a hole vs capture under a screw is easier, IMO.

The cyclone clone is easy but it's kind of small. The IGO-W is easy enough but I had to drill out the airholes and the cap is HARD. The IGO-L had a softer cap (mine is old) but it's a real pain for me to capture the screws and I'm always getting hot legs. I actually don't use the IGO-L very much.

But really - the Kayfun lite + is far and away the easiest to build - for me, anyway.
 

CloudZ

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I still don't know what to choose...thinking igo-l at this point :)

The IGO-L is a perfectly good choice for a beginner. You will probably want to drill out the air hole though, which is going to be true for most RBAs anyway. Most of what everyone else is recommending are dual coil RDAs, which will have 2 air holes. Yes, they all have holes through the posts which makes capturing the coil legs easier, but you'll have to cover one of the holes if it isn't a trident. I've heard that the trident has a design flaw where bottom button mechs will eventually push the center post up and out of it.

Other than that, I don't think anything is going to foolproof easy, there is a good chance of little issues getting in the way of a good vape, but you'll have to just try to solve the problems. This forum is full of members who claim certain things are stupid easy, like setting up an RSST, but it really truly isn't for everyone. Just don't expect anything you buy will be without issues, and don't be disappointed when they arise. After all, you are building your own thermal-electrical atomization system ;)
 

havok333

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I still don't know what to choose...thinking igo-l at this point :)

If you've ever rebuilt a coil head for one of your clearos, building this should be a piece of cake by comparison.

Oh, an I agree about drilling out the air hole on the top cap. Think mine is now 1/16

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steel bender

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I'd pass on the igo-l if I was you. The airhole is tiny and that steel is thick and hard to drill through. There's only two posts and you have to wrap the wire around the screw. When you tighten it down the wire will turn on you distorting your coil. It's much harder to build on than a atty with post holes. You also can't do parallel coils and twisted wire is a pain. Something like the trident will do everything from single coils to quad coils, and has an adjustable airflow. I think they're $10 from fasttech. Heck, you could probably pick up a trident and helios clones for $20.

Well, I drilled out my top cap to 1/16 real easy. Coils don't distort if you leave them on the drill bit while attaching and I don't like dual coils either, so YMMV...:)
 

gpjoe

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The IGO-L is a perfectly good choice for a beginner. You will probably want to drill out the air hole though, which is going to be true for most RBAs anyway. Most of what everyone else is recommending are dual coil RDAs, which will have 2 air holes. Yes, they all have holes through the posts which makes capturing the coil legs easier, but you'll have to cover one of the holes if it isn't a trident. I've heard that the trident has a design flaw where bottom button mechs will eventually push the center post up and out of it.

Other than that, I don't think anything is going to foolproof easy, there is a good chance of little issues getting in the way of a good vape, but you'll have to just try to solve the problems. This forum is full of members who claim certain things are stupid easy, like setting up an RSST, but it really truly isn't for everyone. Just don't expect anything you buy will be without issues, and don't be disappointed when they arise. After all, you are building your own thermal-electrical atomization system ;)

Emphasis added by me.

I have two Igo-Ws, both running single coils with cotton wicks. I drilled ONE hole on each cap and left the opposing hole stock. They vape beautifully - even though it has two holes. I just position the large hole at the coil and 99% of the airflow travels through that hole, without covering the small hole. It's as if the small stock hole is non-existent. Path of least resistance.
 

Hdivr

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I've been using a modified Igo-L on a Reo Grand and it is a great beginner RBA. Cheap, plenty of room to work with. HOWEVER, I absolutely hate having to wrap the wire around the posts.

Plumes just sold me on the A7. I like the post connectors, the deep well, and the placement of the air hole directly beneath the coil. No more swivelling the igo cap around to find the best vapor production.

If it also has the draw consistent with a cartomizer.....that is a huge plus for me.
 
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