The Echo Thread

[Errol]

please tell us why didn't like it? I love hearing contrary opinions, its fuel for my soul, no bs

and was tony's sealed? how long was the cut off?

It is the sealed unit with a 6 or 7 second cut off. Appears to be identical the the one at MtVapor that Tx linked to. Has the two tiny hole drilled horizontally just below the threads. Does not have a slotted center pin.

I had to try it on three different Echo carts before I could find one that would make contact. Given that most of my vaping is with VV devices usually in the 4.5 to 5v range under load the Echo bat felt very anemic at whatever voltage it provides under load. When I ordered it I thought I might be able to use it for my bridgless LR 901 atties that function quite well at 3.7v to 4v but finally realized they won't work on an auto bat without jumping through hoops. Enough hoops in the vaping community without adding to them.

For now my favorite public vape is the 5V WOW which meets most of my vaping needs in a nice tidy package at a reasonable price. 5v Wow! From Clouds of Vapor | Vaping Guides to the Electronic Cigarette

Errol

 

[lulu836]

It is the sealed unit with a 6 or 7 second cut off. Errol

......snip for brevity.

You have mail.

 

[Charlz]

When I ordered it I thought I might be able to use it for my bridgless LR 901 atties that function quite well at 3.7v to 4v but finally realized they won't work on an auto bat without jumping through hoops.

Errol

Always did work....until solid drip protected and unslotted posts came out. I'm gonna have to get over my hatred of soldering when my unprotected batteries die. Seems an easy thing to swap one post for another. As long as the wire is soldered well enough to the post to come out with it. I had to spend a long time trying to fish for that wire when it popped loose on one of my batteries.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

Always did work....until solid drip protected and unslotted posts came out. I'm gonna have to get over my hatred of soldering when my unprotected batteries die. Seems an easy thing to swap one post for another. As long as the wire is soldered well enough to the post to come out with it. I had to spend a long time trying to fish for that wire when it popped loose on one of my batteries.

These are the type of comments that scared me into making sure i got unsealed echos on my first go, for a newbie a sealed battery + perfect echo carto is golden IMO. Meanwhile, I'm looking into a soldering kit as we speak lol.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

why not just seal the air intake hole and drill a new hole in the sealed batt? seriously?

 

[Errol]

why not just seal the air intake hole and drill a new hole in the sealed batt? seriously?

I assume you mean the battery post, don't know where else you could drill it effectively. I'm pretty brave with a fairly well outfitted shop but even I wouldn't try that. If one were to try it while it's in the battery it would just spin and break the battery lead. Perhaps if I had the post out to where I could clamp it down on the drill press it might work. Much easier and more effective to get a manual battery.

Errol

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

The drilling would work, but like errol said probably not while its still on the battery, so for those with dead unsealed echos its easier to switch them since both ways would require soldering. Even if it did not spin when drilled I still would not want to risk slipping and drilling into a battery.

 

[txtumbleweed]

So are you guys talking about replacing posts or drilling them just to get them to work with 901 attys? I'm kind of lost being as I haven't really been following all the modding. I have both the sealed and unsealed and they work good with echo cartos.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

So are you guys talking about replacing posts or drilling them just to get them to work with 901 attys? I'm kind of lost being as I haven't really been following all the modding. I have both the sealed and unsealed and they work good with echo cartos.

Both, charlz has the idea to switch the posts from a dead unsealed echo to a sealed echo so that they would work with 901 attys without any adaptors or anything, and cyrus vape has the idea to just drill hole in the sealed echo to make it work (moslty, im guessing, because he only has sealed echos). No need at all if you are a purest and use echo cartos on echo battys (like i will be again once the echo carto quality issues are all sorted out.)

 

[Cyrus Vap]

the thing is, I'm assuming the motivation to have an unsealed post is to use a 901? since most of you report no difference in draw...

 

[Charlz]

That's basically it, Cyrus. It would also take a 901 to 510 adapter to since there are no TRUE 808 adapters on the market. But that's a different story. 808 hardware is becoming available for fat bats so, I don't see the reason anymore.

The thing that would be hard, is the hole on a unsealed echo is barely a pinhole. It would be very hard to duplicate. They knew what they were doing and the draw was perfect. A wider hole might make the echomizers too airy like they first were. But feel free to play. Just not with the post attached. It would be very easy to trap the lead wire between the silicon and post like we do with the echomizers so repeated soldering wasn't necessary. Then solder it when you knew it was right.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

SLEL's adaptor mod works flawlessly as well, plus as you said, the 808 options are pretty much all there, making 901 atties a matter of taste, not necessity.

Don't think I'll be taking a drill to the Echos lol. I'll save such tomfoolery for my slim batts

Btw the cheap dremel and dremel drill bit set I bought has a tiny (1/32 inch I think?) drill bit that makes a nice pinhole

The halo batt I played with I couldn't get working again. I think I ended up frying the IC at the ash end upon re assembly. I got a full dissection out of it however. I assumed the black wire was positive and the yellow was negative (please correct me if I'm wrong). Anyway, I learned a bunch

 

[Cyrus Vap]

spent two hours trying to re-coil a stardust today lol

everytime I'd get it set, I'd either "miss" on one of the coils and get no current, or end up with 3.7 ohms

finally got it at 2.0 ohms, only three coils. man this thing is vaping nice

 

[Errol]

What was the name of the Echo thread that Bill used to have? There is some info in it that I would like to find.

Errol

 

[txtumbleweed]

What was the name of the Echo thread that Bill used to have? There is some info in it that I would like to find.

Errol

D&B Gold was his supplier name.

 

[Errol]

D&B Gold was his supplier name.

Thanks Tex, that did it.

Errol

 

[Los Marauder]

Errol- It was "D&B Gold has echo-e cartomizers" to be exact.

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

Couple quick things on the Echo rebuild:

1) wiggle method update: grab battery in fist, place thumb on silver ring on battery, grab carto with the bottom portion of you fist with other hand, place thumb at the very end of the carto by the battery. Your two thumbs should line up, then apply pressure the same way you would to break a pencil in half. Works every time for me now, YMMV

2) Charlz idea on putting the coil in from the bottom is brilliant. For two reasons, 1st you can take out an existing coil and dry burn it to your hearts delight without burning up a center tube and 2nd it makes inserting a new coil into a tube a breeze as long as you leave enough extra wire to work with to slide silicon and center post on to, and then snip after everything is placed.

With reinserting an echo coil that you didn't make you can still leave the extra wire to work with by placing the coil in very low and then after the wires are placed carefully pushing the coil up to where it should be. Very important not to let your coil be too close to the silicon and the center tube walls...a little like operation.

With practice the entire rebuild can be done in under 10 minutes using the wiggle and bottom coil entry strategies. The only issue im having right now is keeping the wire from the coil to the battery connection off the walls of the center tube. I am not sure how big of an issue it is for that part of the coil because im not sure how far from the battery connection the wire begins to heat like the coil, can anyone enlighten me?

Just put together a 4 loop coil (maybe 3 and half if that makes sense) thats close together and it is almost too hot for me! But im using it to vape some really bad juice so the flavor is being washed out to just "hot and steamy" which is perfect for this application.

 

[txtumbleweed]

Here is a video on rebuilding them in case you haven't seen it. Repairing atomizer CE4 LeakLess/
Here are some more on utube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DWOlpiA1h0s&feature=player_embedded#!

 

[StartLifeEndLife]

Here is a video on rebuilding them in case you haven't seen it. Repairing atomizer CE4 LeakLess/
Here are some more on utube Gotvapes Stardust: Taking It Apart II - YouTube!

That ^^ is for the stardust/turbos/CE4 type tanks, My post was about the echomizer, but Im not sure you were posting in response to my post, or to cyrus' or thought i was responding to cryus...sorry for the confusion but its all the same principle and those videos helped me with the echo rebuild. Just want to clarify that i was posting about the Echo.