The "Girlie" Mod
- Thread starter mikepetro
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would it be wrong to just say that it's really pretty ?
I like it
Thank you Classy.........
How in the World,,,,do I get my hands on a DNA30D chip! I've been on the Evolv web site every day, about at least 4 times a day, And there never available!!! I e-mailed them and they said to follow them on Twitter??? For the stock update. I don't have a Tweeter account but my son does so he's been tracking them for about a week!!!. No Luck yet, I almost someone would clone them so the availability will increase. Can anyone help?
Nice Job Mike,
View attachment 299143 I made this one and want longer battery life. Going to put two 18650 in the next one,, If I can Get a DNA30 Chip??? That is.
Get verified as they show up in Co-ops from time to time.
Thanks for the reply mike... I was hope it wasn't it so with the prepainted versions...
Sent from my mod using 18650 batteries...
Hey mike, I'm assembling my DNA20 box as we speak. I mounted my tactile buttons for the up and down adjustments. Before I mounted them, I tested them and the worked and now they aren't working. I don't know if the plastic weld I used is preventing conductivity or what. Any opinions would help.
When using the plastic weld I only put the smallest trace around the outside rim with a toothpick before inserting. It doesnt take much at all to hold. I try to be real careful not to get ANY AT ALL inside of the button, as it could either glue or insulate it.
Does it even click now?
Do you own a multimeter? The first thing I would do is see if it is switching states by measuring resistance on the terminals.
Thios may sound silly, but I dont know your level of knowledge. There four terminals on the switch, 2 pairs which are the same point electrically. You have to make sure you soldered to two terminals that are not electrically the same point. If this isnt clear, let me know and I can post a picture for you.
Did you have to use force to push them in? Maybe to much?
Does it even click now?
Do you own a multimeter? The first thing I would do is see if it is switching states by measuring resistance on the terminals.
Thios may sound silly, but I dont know your level of knowledge. There four terminals on the switch, 2 pairs which are the same point electrically. You have to make sure you soldered to two terminals that are not electrically the same point. If this isnt clear, let me know and I can post a picture for you.
Did you have to use force to push them in? Maybe to much?
I put plastic weld on the back side of the switch, I dot know if that makes a difference. I don't exactly know what you mean buy "switching states", but I do own a multimeter. The terminals that the positive and negative are connected to do read a little bit of resistance when I put the multimeter to them. I know for a fact that there is non on the inside of the switch because it is still clicking when I push it.
I attempted to upload a photo, but it keeps failing.
Edit: The on board buttons are still attached as well. I tried to use those and the wattage doesn't go up nor down either.
Edit: Edit: I figured it out! I wired the buttons wrong, so it was causing it to stay adjusting down! whoops.
I attempted to upload a photo, but it keeps failing.
Edit: The on board buttons are still attached as well. I tried to use those and the wattage doesn't go up nor down either.
Edit: Edit: I figured it out! I wired the buttons wrong, so it was causing it to stay adjusting down!
whoops.
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Really nice work Mike. Am going to start my build based on this pretty soon, have everything I need except the DNA30 chip which I ordered through a Facebook group buy. I tore down my last DNA20 mod because the crappy 510 connector stopped working - couldn't get a stable connection, always having to fiddle with it until it finally wouldn't work at all (even replaced the insulator) and since it was majorly epoxied in place couldn't really get it out to work on it or replace. The chi-you 510 is going to be a nice improvement! Also, thanks for the tip on the battery, 6000 mAh is going to last me 3 weeks (just kidding). Thanks for posting your work!
Thank you! That's perfect! As far as using a the 2 battery holder that you did on weekender.. Just use two fuses parallel on the + wire off battery?
parts are trickling in this week and the build should commence!
If you are using that battery holder from the the "Weekender" then you dont need any fuses at all as it has protection built in to it.
However do see Bap's "Resistance" thread. He found that holder to be quite high in resistance compared to the Keystone holders.
Also, the Weekender bat holder probably wont allow you to go over 20w as it will start cutting off due to over-current. It wasnt spec'd to handle 30w.
If you use the Keystone holder, then yes, you will want to put two parallel fuses on EACH battery.
Proetus, I can vouch for the keystone holders, just replaced my ebay specials with a keystone 1048 and now am getting 3/4 of a days more use from my dna at high wattage low ohm setup. Do the fuses and keystone holder, using parallel fuses halfs the ohms and in combination with the keystone holders its the next best thing to directly soldering to the battery. Use LG 30a or Sony VTC4 or 3 batts for the best run times.
Mike, can I ask a huge favor of you if you have a second. I am working on a vamo mod with the hammond 1590a box and a single 18650 batt, space is super tight but I can fit a regular brass 510 connector in there if I cut 4mm off it. I would perfer to use a chi cap but just not too sure it will work out unless I had specific dimensions. Looking for the lip height, threads height and insulator to the end of the 510 pin for battery. I understand if you dont have time as I have one in the mail but it is holding the project up and I'd hate to wait for nothing. Thanks
Mike, can I ask a huge favor of you if you have a second. I am working on a vamo mod with the hammond 1590a box and a single 18650 batt, space is super tight but I can fit a regular brass 510 connector in there if I cut 4mm off it. I would perfer to use a chi cap but just not too sure it will work out unless I had specific dimensions. Looking for the lip height, threads height and insulator to the end of the 510 pin for battery. I understand if you dont have time as I have one in the mail but it is holding the project up and I'd hate to wait for nothing. Thanks
My first go will be the DNA20 sitting on my desk so i should be ok with it. Future builds will be the keystones, fuses etc.
Total height is 13mm
Total below upper lip is 9mm
Lip height - 4mm
Thread Height - 4mm
Insulator Lip - 1mm
Both Pin Lips - 2mm ea (total of 4mm if you use both parts of the telescopic pin)
Insulator and both pins equals 5mm below the brass.
You can save 2mm if you dont use the bottom half of the telescopic pin.
Does this give you everything you need?
Nice tutorial Mike. My wife doesn't like box mods by after seeing your Girlie she now wants one. I think I have enough parts coming to make her one also.
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