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The GP Heron (Spheroid on steroids) is designed as an evolved version of the overtly successful GP Spheroid - and it's intended to 'hold' juice with a filler material, like the GP Fluff, so that this duo are the only 100% leak-resistant RBA under all weather conditions, including the vagaries of flight and altitude changes.
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I've now vaped three full tanks without any filler material holding the juice. No dry hits, no gurgling. I was sceptical at first, but it works and it works great. Much like when using filler material, when it goes dry, it's empty. There wasn't any indication it was getting low.
There's only one tricky part , and that's the wick. It needs to be thin enough in the coil to vape well, but thick enough to completely seal the hole in the topper off. It's slightly annoying to wick properly, but IMO it's worth it. I have no issues using the fluff in the tank and I never have. But I also like to experiment and try new builds and new things. Sometimes they work, and sometimes they don't. Some builds have pros and some have cons, so you keep trying new things and push onward. Ive done the regular style builds in the Heron already, with the topper and without the topper, with cottons balls or cotton yarn ( I even tried silica ...) and so far this way of setting it up is my favourite. Also, getting 4mls of juice in the tank is nice because the space normally occupied by the fluff is freed up for juice.
I'm just using a simple 1.4ohm 30g micro wrapped on a 1/16 drill bit. (sorry but even though I'm in canada i don't know what 30g wire is in metric off the top of my head)
I'll start with pictures of all the Heron parts broken down. Sorry if they're a little blurry, I dropped my iPhone 5s in water a little while ago and sometimes the camera isn't the clearest up close now.
The Gpin is slightly different in the Heron when compared against the PAPS X1.5, this is because much like the Spheriod the top part of the pin needs to stretch over and make contact with the positive screw post.
Once it's assembled it screws in to the bottom of the base.
Next you need to add the AFC ring. There is a slot in the ring and three small holes in the side of the Heron. Unfortunately I can't measure them but if I had to guess I would say they are somewhere around 1mm.
At this point you would attach your coil, and generally attach your wick before putting on the drip well ring (at least that's what I'm calling it). Because of how I'm wicking this, I need to have it on before hand.
This is the annoying part with this build, but with a steady hand and some fine tipped tweezers it's not too bad.
Something i should stress here. There really isn't need to run the Heron without fluff, and I don't think the need for it is a flaw in the atty at all or anything like that. I'm simply showing that it can be done.
Also, as I said above, getting the wick just right is a little annoying. It needs to be thin enough at one end to wick properly to the coil, but thick enough to plug up the hole but not too thick because you'll choke the juice flow.
Wet it with some juice and let it soak down to the coil.
The top cap and air tube. Notice it's held on at both ends with o-rings, and they fit perfectly, not too tight and not too lose. Can you imagine the OCD if we couldn't line up engravings???
The tank.
Fill your tank up.
The bell on the air tube seals with the small red oring you so you want to make sure there is nothing obstructing it, I just push the wick over to the side.
Vape.
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The GP Heron (Spheroid on steroids) is designed as an evolved version of the overtly successful GP Spheroid - and it's intended to 'hold' juice with a filler material, like the GP Fluff, so that this duo are the only 100% leak-resistant RBA under all weather conditions, including the vagaries of flight and altitude changes.
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