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WICK ROLLING - TIPS & TRICKS (Combined Members Posts - Line 11 on Reference Site)
1. Elfstone: ECF “Wicking Material - Safe vs Dangerous”
2. EZkill -Post #5887) Important Safety Information Included:
Be careful, if you are doubling over 33 you are getting wire that is about 8.5 resistance ohms per foot instead of the 14 that is normally found in 32. Doubled over 33 is roughly comparable to 30 which is 8.7 ohms per foot. Too low of a coil and you can stress out an AW 350. The continuous amp draw on the little 350's is 7 amps. A .6 ohm coil will put you on the threshold of max amp draw on a 350 at 7 amps.
I tend to never go below 1ohm because it's first of all too hot for me and second of all I have a high degree of respect for these types of batteries. 1 ohm coil won't go over 4 amps of draw. Personally I'm not sure I'd even fire a 28gauge coil without a MNKE battery or at the very least a bigger AW like a 18650. That's personal opinion, I tend to err on the side of caution. Anything over about half of a batteries max amp draw is out of my personal comfort zone.
3. Elfstone (Post #2901): Wick too tall – On top, it needs to be at the same level as the positive connection. You cannot have a long positive lead hanging in the air - it will become a hotspot.
You want as much of the wick as you can submerged in the liquid. I never tried a "high" wick, but it will work, just not sure if better. A good wick carries the liquid very fast, it doesn't need to (it cannot) get soaked. So it also doesn't "store" juice, it needs to be in contact with as much juice as possible at all times while you fire the coil - that's why it doesn't work to vape vertically...
4. Faceless (Post #2790): Wick too tall – heating top cap. SEE PICTURES IN POST! Also, per Faceless, spinning airhole 10 degrees will increase TH.
5. Caseface79 (Post #2864): Here's what worked for me. Jack frost (torch the unrolled sheet) the mesh before rolling a ton. Fold the cut edge before rolling around a thick paperclip. Torch after it's rolled a ton but do not quench. Put a small piece of cigarette paper around the wick where the coil will lay. Use Zen's method of twisting the device counter clockwise till you get to the post. Then put the wire between the post and mesh but still turn the device to start the second coil. Repeat till you have the desired amount of coils. When wrapping around the positive post make sure you get the mesh as close to the positive post as possible without touching. Fire to burn off the paper and to make sure you get an even glow. Blow off the ash and add liquid. Fire till coils glow again. Repeat this 3-4 times. Then fill the tank 3/4 full and vape.
6. Cryptodogg (Post #2550): I hold one corner of my mesh and heat an area till it turns orange before moving around, I do this on both sides and I do it throughly (there is no such thing as too much in doing this). Before torching fold over one side so that when you roll your wick the folded end is exposed to the wick hole and the mesh, that way no stray mesh will potentially short.
Roll your wick on a straightened paper clip, I used a jumbo size. My mesh was 325, cut to 50mm (5cm) x 20mm (2cm). Once it is rolled, pull the paper clip out just a bit (make sure at this point your paper clip isn't coated with a clear plastic), and torch till glowing both sides of the circumference, flip the wick around and slide the paper clip partially in and torch till orange the other half on both sides.
Then I take some straight VG juice and soak the wick and light it with the torch, I let it burn out on its own. Then I soak and light again, but this time after it lights fully I blow it out and relight, then blow out, till it won’t light again. Then I soak and repeat that last procedure one more time. Now the wick should be good and prepared for getting rammed into the insertion hole, insert your paper clip, put your Kanthal under the negative post but don't break off your excess just yet. Now start your wrap with a 45 degree angle up the wick, TURN your device (don't try looping the Kanthal cause when you do this it allows the Kanthal to relax and will leave areas where the wire doesn't lay correctly, turning the device allows you to keep some pressure on the wire as you wrap. Once you get the number of wraps you want, snug the wire under the positive screw and tug on the top of the mesh, if your mesh will not move up and down with a tug then you wrapped too tight, if there is zero resistance then you wrapped to loose. Basically your wick should move up and down inside your freshly wrapped coil and if it does you can then tighten your positive post.
If the piece of wire coming off the negative screw to the wick is too lose then loosen the negative screw and adjust using the dog ear of a piece that you didn't break off when you first started, as I mentioned up above somewhere. Same thing for the positive screw, if that piece of wire is a bit loose at the top then loosen the positive screw just a bit and adjust before cutting your dog ears. Now I usually put a little juice on the wick and coil and pulse fire. Some will tell you to use a partially drained battery and I am sure that is wise advice but I don't usually think about that when I am doing it and have never popped a coil (that means the next 10 I wrap will pop immediately ).
7. Elfstone (Post #2556): Oh, well... I could never really wrap a coil on the device like Zen does - so I always wrap them outside. I kinda eyeball where the leads ought to be, and wrap it nicely with some core - a paperclip or even a thin Allen wrench.
I use a modified Jack Frost method to oxidize the wick - that means no quenching in water, just a very long session of oxidizing the mesh before rolling into a wick, paying attention to the corners and margins. First time, I did test it with the multimeter (do not use the sharp ends it ruins the oxidation layer), but now I skip that. Then I follow Scubabatdan's video and tuck in two margins - one that will be the bottom end of the wick, one that will be the outside end when rolling. This is important because the most common cause of hidden shorts is due to barely visible mesh strands floating about. Once rolled, I stray from Jack Forst's advice and I burn it with PG 3 times. I also use the cigarette rolling paper trick just like in Scuba's video. I don't get ANY shorts using these combined methods. Worked on the DID and on the Zenesis several times without fail. I never use the insulator on the Zenesis - I hate it since day one when it burned up and I inhaled toxic fumes...
When I set up the iHy I actually didn't use any of these - I just took a Zen pre-made wick, slapped a careless coil and test fired - because I was in a hurry and half asleep. It worked - there were a couple of shorts that needed teasing so in the end I did not save time over my usual method above
Hope it helps someone. Ask away if you need more details.
8. Elfstone (Post #1361): PICS INCLUDED! I don't know. I slapped that coil on half asleep in a minute - the very ugliest I've ever done! I was just about to say the iHy is more forgiving than the DID and fairly easy to set up, more space and more comfortable than the Zenesis... Notice how the coil is too tight by any standards, and I also had to severely pinch the wick because it's a 325 and was flooding like crazy. Just made sure it got as close as possible to the center post to avoid my most common issue - a hotspot on the positive lead wire. No rolling paper, Zen oxidized wick though (which are so well done they actually don't need insulator, ironic since Zen provides insulators)
9. Blaine (Post #16726): I use a 3inch wide piece of mesh and before i start rolling it i fold the edge over a tiny bit probably 1/8", then I roll it pretty tight.. once its rolled I will take the wick and roll it between my fingers the opposite way so it loosens it a little bit and it will completely fill the wick hole... you will have a very tiny bit of a straw style with a solid style wick all in one if that makes sense... if done correctly once broken in you should be able to vape at the 4-5oclock position with constant wicking
10. Shado (Post #16739): I cut a strip 50mm x 95 mm (basically just rip a 50mm high piece off the bottom of my mesh sheet and cut it in half) .....and roll it up. I do use 500 mesh, and could probably get another 10-15mm in comfortably. Like others have said....have fun and experiment.
11. EZkill (Post # 3767): Yea honestly it can take a long time to get your first Genesis going.
As a crutch and "purists" will argue this day and night resort to rolling papers. No joke. Wrap the part of your wick that the coil goes on in about two wraps of rolling paper. Use VG or juice to stick into place and then wrap your coil. On a dry wick when you fire it, it will burn the paper to ash leaving a perfect carbon layer right under your coil. This is the same thing you are doing when oxidizing your wick.
That trick got me over the hump with building a DID on a ProVari. That thing was a nightmare....you couldn't even find the short before the ProVari E1'd and cut all power.
If you quench your wick (some do and some don't) it makes it stiffer. I still quench most of my wicks.
12. [URL="http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-suppliers-forum/322068-ihybrid-apv-fully-customizable-genesis-147.html#post7274320"]EZkill (Post #5875)[/URL]: If you guys are finding you are not getting good enough wicking for your vaping style, try this:
Roll one wick around a 16 (Green cap blunt tip) gauge needle using just under an inch of material. Make sure you have a nice hole down the middle and it fits well. Roll a second wick out of about 1/3rd of an inch of material and stuff it in the first one. Wrap as usual.
I had some serious doubts that it would increase flavor as claimed but somehow it has. I can't really explain it but it has really increased wicking and surprisingly flavor as well.
13. Evilferret (Post #3646) FAT WICKING: When making the fat wick try using more mesh. More mesh -> better wicking. Also I try to make as small an inside hole as possible now and pinch the top of the wicks. The mesh holds the juice so I want more juice stored in my wick.
Offsetting the coils is great fun! The hard part for me is keeping the ohms down while offsetting it right. Luckily I "borrowed" a kick from a buddy. Hope mine arrives before I have to return it. I'm metering 2+ ohms with all my offset coils. I know I'm using way too much wire.
Edit: Also try a short wick. I find it helps wicking but could be in my head. I have no real way to test but with a short fat wick/offset coils not having single dry hits. As long as the wick is in juice, I'm good.
14. Vapor2112 (Post #5857) PINCHING TOP OF WICK TO PREVENT OVERWICKING: It’s kind of one in the same. Can be caused by many things, perhaps the opening is a bit too large, maybe the wick isn't broken in yet, perhaps juice ratio, etc.. When those things happen, and the top of the wick is open, the juice tends to boil inside of the wick and keep flowing through.
When you pinch it off, a little less juice flows through, and it’s also forced to wick through the mesh and to the coils...Not the most technical description, I'm beat tonight, but it’s always solved those types of problems for me. Hope that makes sense.
***Post Under Construction (Please send PM since it's so long - instead of "Reply to Post"
)
1. Elfstone: ECF “Wicking Material - Safe vs Dangerous”
2. EZkill -Post #5887) Important Safety Information Included:
Be careful, if you are doubling over 33 you are getting wire that is about 8.5 resistance ohms per foot instead of the 14 that is normally found in 32. Doubled over 33 is roughly comparable to 30 which is 8.7 ohms per foot. Too low of a coil and you can stress out an AW 350. The continuous amp draw on the little 350's is 7 amps. A .6 ohm coil will put you on the threshold of max amp draw on a 350 at 7 amps.
I tend to never go below 1ohm because it's first of all too hot for me and second of all I have a high degree of respect for these types of batteries. 1 ohm coil won't go over 4 amps of draw. Personally I'm not sure I'd even fire a 28gauge coil without a MNKE battery or at the very least a bigger AW like a 18650. That's personal opinion, I tend to err on the side of caution. Anything over about half of a batteries max amp draw is out of my personal comfort zone.
3. Elfstone (Post #2901): Wick too tall – On top, it needs to be at the same level as the positive connection. You cannot have a long positive lead hanging in the air - it will become a hotspot.
You want as much of the wick as you can submerged in the liquid. I never tried a "high" wick, but it will work, just not sure if better. A good wick carries the liquid very fast, it doesn't need to (it cannot) get soaked. So it also doesn't "store" juice, it needs to be in contact with as much juice as possible at all times while you fire the coil - that's why it doesn't work to vape vertically...
4. Faceless (Post #2790): Wick too tall – heating top cap. SEE PICTURES IN POST! Also, per Faceless, spinning airhole 10 degrees will increase TH.
5. Caseface79 (Post #2864): Here's what worked for me. Jack frost (torch the unrolled sheet) the mesh before rolling a ton. Fold the cut edge before rolling around a thick paperclip. Torch after it's rolled a ton but do not quench. Put a small piece of cigarette paper around the wick where the coil will lay. Use Zen's method of twisting the device counter clockwise till you get to the post. Then put the wire between the post and mesh but still turn the device to start the second coil. Repeat till you have the desired amount of coils. When wrapping around the positive post make sure you get the mesh as close to the positive post as possible without touching. Fire to burn off the paper and to make sure you get an even glow. Blow off the ash and add liquid. Fire till coils glow again. Repeat this 3-4 times. Then fill the tank 3/4 full and vape.
6. Cryptodogg (Post #2550): I hold one corner of my mesh and heat an area till it turns orange before moving around, I do this on both sides and I do it throughly (there is no such thing as too much in doing this). Before torching fold over one side so that when you roll your wick the folded end is exposed to the wick hole and the mesh, that way no stray mesh will potentially short.
Roll your wick on a straightened paper clip, I used a jumbo size. My mesh was 325, cut to 50mm (5cm) x 20mm (2cm). Once it is rolled, pull the paper clip out just a bit (make sure at this point your paper clip isn't coated with a clear plastic), and torch till glowing both sides of the circumference, flip the wick around and slide the paper clip partially in and torch till orange the other half on both sides.
Then I take some straight VG juice and soak the wick and light it with the torch, I let it burn out on its own. Then I soak and light again, but this time after it lights fully I blow it out and relight, then blow out, till it won’t light again. Then I soak and repeat that last procedure one more time. Now the wick should be good and prepared for getting rammed into the insertion hole, insert your paper clip, put your Kanthal under the negative post but don't break off your excess just yet. Now start your wrap with a 45 degree angle up the wick, TURN your device (don't try looping the Kanthal cause when you do this it allows the Kanthal to relax and will leave areas where the wire doesn't lay correctly, turning the device allows you to keep some pressure on the wire as you wrap. Once you get the number of wraps you want, snug the wire under the positive screw and tug on the top of the mesh, if your mesh will not move up and down with a tug then you wrapped too tight, if there is zero resistance then you wrapped to loose. Basically your wick should move up and down inside your freshly wrapped coil and if it does you can then tighten your positive post.
If the piece of wire coming off the negative screw to the wick is too lose then loosen the negative screw and adjust using the dog ear of a piece that you didn't break off when you first started, as I mentioned up above somewhere. Same thing for the positive screw, if that piece of wire is a bit loose at the top then loosen the positive screw just a bit and adjust before cutting your dog ears. Now I usually put a little juice on the wick and coil and pulse fire. Some will tell you to use a partially drained battery and I am sure that is wise advice but I don't usually think about that when I am doing it and have never popped a coil (that means the next 10 I wrap will pop immediately ).
7. Elfstone (Post #2556): Oh, well... I could never really wrap a coil on the device like Zen does - so I always wrap them outside. I kinda eyeball where the leads ought to be, and wrap it nicely with some core - a paperclip or even a thin Allen wrench.
I use a modified Jack Frost method to oxidize the wick - that means no quenching in water, just a very long session of oxidizing the mesh before rolling into a wick, paying attention to the corners and margins. First time, I did test it with the multimeter (do not use the sharp ends it ruins the oxidation layer), but now I skip that. Then I follow Scubabatdan's video and tuck in two margins - one that will be the bottom end of the wick, one that will be the outside end when rolling. This is important because the most common cause of hidden shorts is due to barely visible mesh strands floating about. Once rolled, I stray from Jack Forst's advice and I burn it with PG 3 times. I also use the cigarette rolling paper trick just like in Scuba's video. I don't get ANY shorts using these combined methods. Worked on the DID and on the Zenesis several times without fail. I never use the insulator on the Zenesis - I hate it since day one when it burned up and I inhaled toxic fumes...
When I set up the iHy I actually didn't use any of these - I just took a Zen pre-made wick, slapped a careless coil and test fired - because I was in a hurry and half asleep. It worked - there were a couple of shorts that needed teasing so in the end I did not save time over my usual method above
Hope it helps someone. Ask away if you need more details.
8. Elfstone (Post #1361): PICS INCLUDED! I don't know. I slapped that coil on half asleep in a minute - the very ugliest I've ever done! I was just about to say the iHy is more forgiving than the DID and fairly easy to set up, more space and more comfortable than the Zenesis... Notice how the coil is too tight by any standards, and I also had to severely pinch the wick because it's a 325 and was flooding like crazy. Just made sure it got as close as possible to the center post to avoid my most common issue - a hotspot on the positive lead wire. No rolling paper, Zen oxidized wick though (which are so well done they actually don't need insulator, ironic since Zen provides insulators)
9. Blaine (Post #16726): I use a 3inch wide piece of mesh and before i start rolling it i fold the edge over a tiny bit probably 1/8", then I roll it pretty tight.. once its rolled I will take the wick and roll it between my fingers the opposite way so it loosens it a little bit and it will completely fill the wick hole... you will have a very tiny bit of a straw style with a solid style wick all in one if that makes sense... if done correctly once broken in you should be able to vape at the 4-5oclock position with constant wicking
10. Shado (Post #16739): I cut a strip 50mm x 95 mm (basically just rip a 50mm high piece off the bottom of my mesh sheet and cut it in half) .....and roll it up. I do use 500 mesh, and could probably get another 10-15mm in comfortably. Like others have said....have fun and experiment.
11. EZkill (Post # 3767): Yea honestly it can take a long time to get your first Genesis going.
As a crutch and "purists" will argue this day and night resort to rolling papers. No joke. Wrap the part of your wick that the coil goes on in about two wraps of rolling paper. Use VG or juice to stick into place and then wrap your coil. On a dry wick when you fire it, it will burn the paper to ash leaving a perfect carbon layer right under your coil. This is the same thing you are doing when oxidizing your wick.
That trick got me over the hump with building a DID on a ProVari. That thing was a nightmare....you couldn't even find the short before the ProVari E1'd and cut all power.
If you quench your wick (some do and some don't) it makes it stiffer. I still quench most of my wicks.
12. [URL="http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-suppliers-forum/322068-ihybrid-apv-fully-customizable-genesis-147.html#post7274320"]EZkill (Post #5875)[/URL]: If you guys are finding you are not getting good enough wicking for your vaping style, try this:
Roll one wick around a 16 (Green cap blunt tip) gauge needle using just under an inch of material. Make sure you have a nice hole down the middle and it fits well. Roll a second wick out of about 1/3rd of an inch of material and stuff it in the first one. Wrap as usual.
I had some serious doubts that it would increase flavor as claimed but somehow it has. I can't really explain it but it has really increased wicking and surprisingly flavor as well.
13. Evilferret (Post #3646) FAT WICKING: When making the fat wick try using more mesh. More mesh -> better wicking. Also I try to make as small an inside hole as possible now and pinch the top of the wicks. The mesh holds the juice so I want more juice stored in my wick.
Offsetting the coils is great fun! The hard part for me is keeping the ohms down while offsetting it right. Luckily I "borrowed" a kick from a buddy. Hope mine arrives before I have to return it. I'm metering 2+ ohms with all my offset coils. I know I'm using way too much wire.
Edit: Also try a short wick. I find it helps wicking but could be in my head. I have no real way to test but with a short fat wick/offset coils not having single dry hits. As long as the wick is in juice, I'm good.
14. Vapor2112 (Post #5857) PINCHING TOP OF WICK TO PREVENT OVERWICKING: It’s kind of one in the same. Can be caused by many things, perhaps the opening is a bit too large, maybe the wick isn't broken in yet, perhaps juice ratio, etc.. When those things happen, and the top of the wick is open, the juice tends to boil inside of the wick and keep flowing through.
When you pinch it off, a little less juice flows through, and it’s also forced to wick through the mesh and to the coils...Not the most technical description, I'm beat tonight, but it’s always solved those types of problems for me. Hope that makes sense.
***Post Under Construction (Please send PM since it's so long - instead of "Reply to Post"
)
Last edited:
Whatever, my green envy is cooler than your spider anyways
I have a Green Envy too. ;-) lol
No hard time
Actually, I'm as u not into HR
Have a lot of mods
The iHy is the best till now
Waiting for a new one. Hopefully I will get the shipment notification today
Actually, I'm as u not into HR
Have a lot of mods
The iHy is the best till now
Waiting for a new one. Hopefully I will get the shipment notification today
So since I see some guitar talk. My 5 year old wants 1. going to get something with a amp but I'm lost with instruments any suggestions? I was just gonna hit guitar city and look at used.
From my phone
From my phone
jeez this thread moves fast.
lol, this tracking # is gonna haunt me. must not look at it
lol, this tracking # is gonna haunt me. must not look at it
Argh! You've found me out! You won't tell Mrs grruss, right?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
deal is way dead.
they had this "nice guy vendor" spiel about how other retailers suck for black friday/cyber monday, and how they were doing it right... then they opened their store for about 3 minutes and then killed orders for the rest of the day.... they did this all week, .... AVE
lol, this bad word filter is bugging me... i mean, we're all adults here
Lady Poison, you are a beacon of light on this island of misfit toys. (Pardon the mixed metaphor.)
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Wise choice...
Too many people think that's too young for a "real" guitar and go to wal mart or whatnot. No better way to turn anyone, at any age, off to an instrument than a garbage / improperly set-up instrument...
Get a used set-up at a reasonable price, you can always get most if not all of your money back out of it if interest is lost..
Too many people think that's too young for a "real" guitar and go to wal mart or whatnot. No better way to turn anyone, at any age, off to an instrument than a garbage / improperly set-up instrument...
Get a used set-up at a reasonable price, you can always get most if not all of your money back out of it if interest is lost..
The bassist of my band works at guitar center, so he would be helpful, not me. I know they sell packs for Christmas that is a guitar and amp + all your other little needs in one box! Used might be cheaper, however. Usually, people go with Epiphone's or Squier for their kids. These are mostly beginners guitars.
I agree. Maybe a cheaper Fender or something would work! I agree with the garbage comment.
For a 5year old you should just get the cheapest of his size. (as long as it's not a toy)
a) He'll grow out of it in no time.
b) to learn the basics the cheapest will do.
c) who knows how long he'll like it.
Thanks!! just wanted to make sure I pointed myself the right way.
From my phone
From my phone
At age 5, a Fender Squire would be the way to go. Cheap and easily repairable. The good stuff comes when they are older and more skilled.
Yep ... got my 12 yr old DD boots, a riding hat, breeches and gloves for horse riding ..... she doesn't like it after 1 lesson!
^^ +1 ^^
Unless its a destructive 5 yr old.. If its something you know will get broken for sure, go with a cheapo. But for all other purposs just get something used, when I was a kid I had a red Washburn lol
Yep ... got my 12 yr old DD boots, a riding hat, breeches and gloves for horse riding ..... she doesn't like it after 1 lesson!
But you had fun shopping for that stuff
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