The iHybrid APV - A fully Customizable Genesis

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Conard

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Just a quick drive by post as I'm in the middle of a production run of my own.

I've had the Ihybrid up and running for 20 hours or so and I'm loving it.
It's like the Transformer of the APV world. I usually run these things in 18650 mod but I switched this over to 18350 so it would pocket better when I went out and about this morning.

I usually grab a P+ Did combination for running around and now I have choices. My guess is this thing will be doing much more traveling around than any of the other genny set ups I have.

If I would have to make the choice Jonner did I'm afraid my ASH would be the one in the classies.
Great job Face!!!!
 

cryptodogg

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Do you have a video on assembly ??? I would like to know more about this device looks great just want to know if it works like it looks......lol

I posted one.....here somewhere yesterday. It's a riot and my first ever....incredibly bad but you get the gist, plus it was recorded before I had even opened the thing so I was in discovery mode while it was being recorded. :lol:
 

Lazerrred

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iHybrid made it today. YaY !! Then some dumb ... preceded to dismantle every thing to clean and broke the tank. :facepalm: :blink: PM'ed Faceless to buy a couple and in like 10 minutes had shipping & tracking info. Dayam that was fast. Thanks Faceless. iHybrid feels so good in hand I can't wait to get her up and running.:)
 

cryptodogg

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If I would have to make the choice Jonner did I'm afraid my ASH would be the one in the classies.
Great job Face!!!!

Jonner is a good dude and was initially tempted up put his ASH up, in reality that would prolly be the only way to get someone to let go of a ProVari with a ZAP. Faceless has pretty much eliminated the ability to pick up an extremely rare item by trading the iHybrid, that isn't because it doesn't vape like one of the best, but because it is easier to get one of your own. I think that Jonner is gonna end up vaping that bad boy once he gets a replacement tank, and when he does, I believe that he will be glad no one took him up on the trade. JMO
 

maleko

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Congratz.....we are prepared with plenty of answers. (not sayin if they are correct answers, that's the part you gotta figure out, what works for you ;))

Lol I will probably have lots
I posted one.....here somewhere yesterday. It's a riot and my first ever....incredibly bad but you get the gist, plus it was recorded before I had even opened the thing so I was in discovery mode while it was being recorded. :lol:

Might dumb my questions down if you post a vid on wrapping a coil on this :)
I tried wrapping coils in my zen without the insulator and every single one popped..
The Ihybrid would have the same setup as a zen with no insulator so I fear the same thing will happen:facepalm:
 

Keegan1014

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Lol I will probably have lots


Might dumb my questions down if you post a vid on wrapping a coil on this :)
I tried wrapping coils in my zen without the insulator and every single one popped..
The Ihybrid would have the same setup as a zen with no insulator so I fear the same thing will happen:facepalm:

I pulled the insulator out of all my Zenesis apvs.
My opinion is they choke the flow of juice when I run low ohms coils.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

Conard

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I am aware of Jonner's back story and I agree with your post 100%.

Jonner is a good dude and was initially tempted up put his ASH up, in reality that would prolly be the only way to get someone to let go of a ProVari with a ZAP. Faceless has pretty much eliminated the ability to pick up an extremely rare item by trading the iHybrid, that isn't because it doesn't vape like one of the best, but because it is easier to get one of your own. I think that Jonner is gonna end up vaping that bad boy once he gets a replacement tank, and when he does, I believe that he will be glad no one took him up on the trade. JMO
 

cryptodogg

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Lol I will probably have lots


Might dumb my questions down if you post a vid on wrapping a coil on this :)
I tried wrapping coils in my zen without the insulator and every single one popped..
The Ihybrid would have the same setup as a zen with no insulator so I fear the same thing will happen:facepalm:

What kind of torch do you have?

I hold one corner of my mesh and heat an area till it turns orange before moving around, I do this on both sides and I do it throughly (there is no such thing as to much in doing this). Before torching fold over one side so that when you roll your wick the folded end is exposed to the wick hole and the mesh, that way no stray mesh will potentially short.

Roll your wick on a straightened paper clip, I used a jumbo size. My mesh was 325, cut to 50mm (5cm) x 20mm (2cm). Once it is rolled, pull the paper clip out just a bit (make sure at this point your paper clip isn't coated with a clear plastic), and torch till glowing both sides of the circumference, flip the wick around and slide the paper clip partially in and torch till orange the other half on both sides.

Then I take some straight VG juice and soak the wick and light it with the torch, I let it burn out on its own. Then I soak and light again, but this time after it lights fully I blow it out and relight, then blow out, till it wont light again. Then I soak and repeat that last procedure one more time. Now the wick should be good and prepared for getting rammed into the insertion hole, insert your paper clip, put your Kanthal under the negative post but don't break off your excess just yet. Now start your wrap with a 45 degree angle up the wick, TURN your device (don't try looping the Kanthal cause when you do this it allows the Kanthal to relax and will leave areas where the wire doesn't lay correctly, turning the device allows you to keep some pressure on the wire as you wrap. Once you get the number of wraps you want, snug the wire under the posi screw and tug on the top of the mesh, if your mesh will not move up and down with a tug then you wrapped too tight, if there is zero resistance then you wrapped to loose. Basically your wick should move up and down inside your freshly wrapped coil and if it does you can then tighten your positive post.

If the piece of wire coming off the neg screw to the wick is too lose then loosen the neg screw and adjust using the dog ear of a piece that you didn't break off when you first started, as I mentioned up above somewhere. Same thing for the positive screw, if that piece of wire is a bit loose at the top then loosen the posi screw just a bit and adjust before cutting your dog ears. Now I usually put a little juice on the wick and coil and pulse fire. Some will tell you to use a partially drained batt and I am sure that is wise advice but I don't usually think about that when I am doing it and have never popped a coil (that means the next 10 I wrap will pop immediately :blink:).
 

cryptodogg

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I am aware of Jonner's back story and I agree with your post 100%.

I know you did Conrad....geese maybe I should quit quoting posts. I was really posting my thoughts for all, not just you, as I have seen some comments on his ad where peeps were wondering. :)

I quoted because your mentioning your ASH would have to go up and he was also tempted to put his up. My ASH is not going in the classy's, neither will my Ti Standard, nor my SS Standard. I can wait till the Z-Attys are available for purchase, look how long it took to get the ASH....that was back in May when that list was compiled. :D
 

maleko

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What kind of torch do you have?

I hold one corner of my mesh and heat an area till it turns orange before moving around, I do this on both sides and I do it throughly (there is no such thing as to much in doing this). Before torching fold over one side so that when you roll your wick the folded end is exposed to the wick hole and the mesh, that way no stray mesh will potentially short.

Roll your wick on a straightened paper clip, I used a jumbo size. My mesh was 325, cut to 50mm (5cm) x 20mm (2cm). Once it is rolled, pull the paper clip out just a bit (make sure at this point your paper clip isn't coated with a clear plastic), and torch till glowing both sides of the circumference, flip the wick around and slide the paper clip partially in and torch till orange the other half on both sides.

Then I take some straight VG juice and soak the wick and light it with the torch, I let it burn out on its own. Then I soak and light again, but this time after it lights fully I blow it out and relight, then blow out, till it wont light again. Then I soak and repeat that last procedure one more time. Now the wick should be good and prepared for getting rammed into the insertion hole, insert your paper clip, put your Kanthal under the negative post but don't break off your excess just yet. Now start your wrap with a 45 degree angle up the wick, TURN your device (don't try looping the Kanthal cause when you do this it allows the Kanthal to relax and will leave areas where the wire doesn't lay correctly, turning the device allows you to keep some pressure on the wire as you wrap. Once you get the number of wraps you want, snug the wire under the posi screw and tug on the top of the mesh, if your mesh will not move up and down with a tug then you wrapped too tight, if there is zero resistance then you wrapped to loose. Basically your wick should move up and down inside your freshly wrapped coil and if it does you can then tighten your positive post.

If the piece of wire coming off the neg screw to the wick is too lose then loosen the neg screw and adjust using the dog ear of a piece that you didn't break off when you first started, as I mentioned up above somewhere. Same thing for the positive screw, if that piece of wire is a bit loose at the top then loosen the posi screw just a bit and adjust before cutting your dog ears. Now I usually put a little juice on the wick and coil and pulse fire. Some will tell you to use a partially drained batt and I am sure that is wise advice but I don't usually think about that when I am doing it and have never popped a coil (that means the next 10 I wrap will pop immediately :blink:).


Im using a chefs torch. And sounds like I have already followed all of those steps and still popped coils.
I either
A. Wrap coils like a kindergarten student doing crafts.
b. Don't prep my mesh enough.

I think the answer might be B.
I do the three times quench process and I also use straight vg light and burn method.. I also then use the juice I am going to use it with and light and burn three MORE times.

Rightnow I do have my katana and zen wrapped and working well. However my Zen is lacking in the flavor department.
 

cryptodogg

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Im using a chefs torch. And sounds like I have already followed all of those steps and still popped coils.
I either
A. Wrap coils like a kindergarten student doing crafts.
b. Don't prep my mesh enough.

I think the answer might be B.
I do the three times quench process and I also use straight vg light and burn method.. I also then use the juice I am going to use it with and light and burn three MORE times.

Rightnow I do have my katana and zen wrapped and working well. However my Zen is lacking in the flavor department.

Personally I don't quench.

Read my post and follow exactly, don't skip a step cause you can't imagine it would matter, including the part where I say that you let it burn out on its own the first time and then each time afterward you blow it out and relight and blow out till it wont light before doing the wetting and blowing again. I then soak the wick before inserting and only touch the wick on the end where I wrap the coil so that when I get the juice there on my fingers, I can reapply it with my juice bottle or syringe.

You could use some cotton on the part that goes into the wick hole, not much just a little wrapped around the wick, the cotton would act as an insulator and also not inhibit wicking.

I also DONT heat my Kanthal with my torch before wrapping, some do, I don't. Again, it's what you find works best for you, and what I have posted is what works best for me on the Zenesis, iHybrid, DID, and Orion.
 
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maleko

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katana coil.jpg
zen coil.jpg
One on the zen one on the Katana.

On the zen it will not work just like that without the insulator. With the insulator like that it still is not so great on flavor.
 

elfstone

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Oh, well... I could never really wrap a coil on the device like Zen does - so I always wrap them outside. I kinda eyeball where the leads ought to be, and wrap it nicely with some core - a paperclip or even a thin Allen wrench.

I use a modified Jack Frost method to oxidize the wick - that means no quenching in water, just a very long session of oxidizing the mesh before rolling into a wick, paying attention to the corners and margins. First time, I did test it with the multimeter (do not use the sharp ends it ruins the oxidation layer), but now I skip that. Then I follow Scubabatdan's video and tuck in two margins - one that will be the bottom end of the wick, one that will be the outside end when rolling. This is important because the most common cause of hidden shorts is due to barely visible mesh strands floating about. Once rolled, I stray from Jack Forst's advice and I burn it with PG 3 times. I also use the cigarette rolling paper trick just like in Scuba's video. I don't get ANY shorts using these combined methods. Worked on the DID and on the Zenesis severeal times without fail. I never use the insulator on the Zenesis - I hate it since day one when it burned up and I inhaled toxic fumes...

When I set up the iHy I actually didn't use any of these - I just took a Zen pre-made wick, slapped a careless coil and test fired - because I was in a hurry and half asleep. It worked - there were a couple of shorts that needed teasing so in the end I did not save time over my usual method above.

Hope it helps someone. Ask away if you need more details.
 
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maleko

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Oh, well... I could never really wrap a coil on the device like Zen does - so I always wrap them outside. I kinda eyeball where the leads ought to be, and wrap it nicely with some core - a paperclip or even a thin Allen wrench.

I use a modified Jack Frost method to oxidize the wick - that means no quenching in water, just a very long session of oxidizing the mesh before rolling into a wick, paying attention to the corners and margins. First time, I did test it with the multimeter (do not use the sharp ends it ruins the oxidation layer), but now I skip that. Then I follow Scubabatdan's video and tuck in two margins - one that will be the bottom end of the wick, one that will be the outside end when rolling. Once rolled, I stray from Jack Forst's advice and I burn it with PG 3 times. I also use the cigarette rolling paper trick. I don't get ANY shorts using these combined methods. Worked on the DID and on the Zenesis severeal times without fail.

When I set up the iHy I actually didn't use any of these - I just took a Zen pre-made wick, slapped a careless coil and test fired - because I was in a hurry and half asleep. It worked - there were a couple of shorts that needed teasing so in the end I did not save time over my usual method above.

Hope it helps someone. Ask away if you need more details.


That being said the Ihybrid you used a pre-maid wick. When you rolled your own for the zen did you use it without or with the insulator?
I am trying to see if I just fail on the wick or the coil.
 

Keegan1014

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That being said the Ihybrid you used a pre-maid wick. When you rolled your own for the zen did you use it without or with the insulator?
I am trying to see if I just fail on the wick or the coil.

Were do your coils pop at?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

cryptodogg

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View attachment 128995
View attachment 128996
One on the zen one on the Katana.

On the zen it will not work just like that without the insulator. With the insulator like that it still is not so great on flavor.

Looks like your bottom coil is to close to the insulator (assuming its present). Can you side your wick up and down with the wire giving some resistance but not the kind where you have to pull and it pulls the coil too. When you pull the wick, does the insulator pull too, if so then you likely melted the insulator a bit and your favor is off cause its not wicking right now. That bottom coil needs to have attn paid to it when wrapping on the Zen cause if not you will have headaches.
 
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