The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group

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Shellie

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Thanks, all. Andria, I did try changing different configurations of wattage/voltage. I've tried different toppers. I only have the heads that came with them, and I'm NOT a tinker-er. :O LOL It was all i could do to change the head on one when it burnt out. Anyway, I guess i'll chalk it up to vaper's tounge for a while and see what comes of it.

Atroph, I'm vaping to not start smoking again. I was at the store, ready to buy a pack of ciggys after more than 10 years without. I bought a blu instead, and it was all uphill from there haha
 

DavidOck

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David, do you have pics? I'm still wrestling with getting the wick the correct length. I tried RipTripper's wicking method, and I constantly get burnt hits (makes me think too much wick?) Then, someone mentioned "bunny ears" - I've read a thread or two since coming across that one and don't remember who mentioned it. I keep thinking that I'm not using very much cotton, but some of my builds struggle :(

On my kanger heads, I know to clip right at the edges of the flange, and I NEVER have problems :)

Here's one of the bunny ears, about 1/4" above the bottom part of the chimney:



And her it is stuffed in:


Cellucotton.
 

Katdarling

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The battery device you are using should have little or no effect on flavor. You have Vapor tongue my dear. A lock out from your taste buds. Search here for full definition and possible solutions. Frankly, I find time is the best solution.

I'm in between you and Madame Andria. It may be vaper's tongue ... or does that really even exist? After vaping for a few years, I will still encounter hours (days even) when NOTHING tastes right, or tastes like anything much at all. For me, I've decided that it happens when I "over vape". The unfortunate side effect of which is.... to vape more! Chasing the dragon.

And here is where I do agree with you, Cap'n. Time heals it. I've tried most of the methods suggested, even pickles. Time does it.
Prolly sleep, too.


response would differ drastically if I wasn't so obscured :p


Doubtful. :)
 

AndriaD

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Thanks, all. Andria, I did try changing different configurations of wattage/voltage. I've tried different toppers. I only have the heads that came with them, and I'm NOT a tinker-er. :O LOL It was all i could do to change the head on one when it burnt out. Anyway, I guess i'll chalk it up to vaper's tounge for a while and see what comes of it.

Atroph, I'm vaping to not start smoking again. I was at the store, ready to buy a pack of ciggys after more than 10 years without. I bought a blu instead, and it was all uphill from there haha

Ok, here's something, a question, something that might shed more light. After you eat something, and you vape... is it better? Better flavor, throat hit, better anything? Or, same question, after you drink a good bit of water?

If it's really this vaper's tongue problem... try eating something really strong-tasting... salty, spicy, cinnamon-y... or maybe dill pickles, those really work the salivary glands. See if you notice any difference, improvement or otherwise, after different things to eat/drink. If you haven't had a cigarette in 10 yrs, your tastebuds should be recuperated from smoke-abuse, but maybe they're just having a hard time getting used to discerning flavors from vapor -- I still have a hard time sometimes, with some flavors, but others come thru loud and clear.

Andria
 

DingerCPA

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Here's one of the bunny ears, about 1/4" above the bottom part of the chimney:



And her it is stuffed in:


Cellucotton.

Thanks David! I thought that was the cellucotton - the fibers didn't look like the regular stuff. So, you're packing it in there pretty well? I think I read recently that one does want to use more cellucotton than one would use normal cotton.....

Hmmm. I'll be experimenting this weekend :D

Anyone use the KF mini with all three sections deployed? I'm wondering if that might not be part of my "vacuum/dry hit" issue. When I run with two sections (same coil build) and the shorter chimney, it seems like I get great results. I wanted to build up the "big kahuna" to see how it would work (especially since I was able to "exponentially" increase the amount of juice I could load into the tank!) Wish I had a pic - that thing looks insane :D Stick it on top of the VV3 and it's kinda funny-looking!
 

DavidOck

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Just ordered a KFmini from slotech, along with a miscellaney of other "stuff", so can't speak to that from experience... and will no doubt try it both ways when I get it. But not sure why the taller config should produce dry hits. Maybe something else going on.

Um, packing it in... With cellucotton, I've been using a wick that really fills the coil, almost to the point of deforming it when pulling through. Then, after cutting about 1/4 inch above the chimney base, pushing it down both sides of the deck, being careful to not leave any on top of or under the coil. It's not tight, but does fill the space.
 

PennyLynn

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I'm going to my first vape meet tonight! The Space Coast Vapers group on Facebook. This'll be the first time I actually come face-to-face with other people who vape, other than the neighbor who got me started. I hope to finally see what real gear looks like and get some good advice on how to start improving my own.
Yeah, it's been six months and I'm vaping in a vacuum...that's FIGURATIVELY, of course.
 

AndriaD

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I have the EHPro EAmod, the Fallen Angel Andria's mentioned. Very happy with it. I generally run with a Kick, to get VW back, and a layer of protection as well, as the Kick won't allow either overcurrent or running the battery too low. (If if works as advertised, of course... :evil: )

David, I posted this question in my thread I started RE: any diff in maintaining a mech vs. an APV, but it's kinda buried, it might be hard for anyone to see or find it, so I thought I'd ask you since you have one of these mods -- it's really dumb so please don't laugh, but I don't want to get this wrong -- in which direction does the battery go? Does the positive end go down toward the switch, or up towards the 510? I've watched a couple vids and plan to watch some more, RE: using the kick, but I can't tell how they're loading the battery and it's driving me nuts! (I know, short trip!)

Thanks very much!!!
Andria
 

AndriaD

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Andria, I have a Nemesis and positive goes toward the 510 end, not the switch. Just like your Zmax

Ok, thanks, that's very helpful! I figured it might, but I sure didn't want to assume and get it wrong, since these don't have that reverse-polarity protection.

Now I gotta watch some more videos and figure out how to use this Kick... ;)

THX!
Andria
 

PennyLynn

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Penny, I'm so excited for you! We're pretty "spoiled" here... regular vape meets all the time, and so many vape shops at which to meet up with vape buds.

Thanks, Kat! I think my husband will have fun, too...he was a 'once-in-a-while' cigar smoker, and he has his very own itaste in which he will happily vape 0 nic, from time to time. I also give him tastes of some of my Ahlusion yummies.
And we NEVER go out...so I'm excited too!
 

DavidOck

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Yup, positive end of the battery towards the 510 connector. And the only "silly" question is the one you don't ask! :)

The kick sits on top of the battery positive post. The little potentiomenter (probably blue, with a white center that takes a small phillips screwdriver) also faces "up" toward the 510. Fully clockwise, looking down at it, is max power. There are a couple models out now, with different ranges, and even a VV version as well. Just start about mid-point and vape. Adjust to taste, of course! Not nearly as convenient as an adjustable mod, but gives you adjustment in a mech - and if it does fail (when?), you still have the mech.
 

AndriaD

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Yup, positive end of the battery towards the 510 connector. And the only "silly" question is the one you don't ask! :)

The kick sits on top of the battery positive post. The little potentiomenter (probably blue, with a white center that takes a small phillips screwdriver) also faces "up" toward the 510. Fully clockwise, looking down at it, is max power. There are a couple models out now, with different ranges, and even a VV version as well. Just start about mid-point and vape. Adjust to taste, of course! Not nearly as convenient as an adjustable mod, but gives you adjustment in a mech - and if it does fail (when?), you still have the mech.

Thx David! I watched the Robert Ellis video about the Kick (I *like* that guy! Mad as a hatter, but funny, and that white beard reminds me so much of my dad, whom I really wish could have lived long enough to see all this e-cig stuff), and that answered the most basic question, but you made it much clearer, about where it goes, the orientation, how to adjust it, etc.

I'm watching the Busardo video now; it's really about the "Kick 2", the real evolv one (I have the SmokTech vw one), but he's usually got interesting and useful things to say, so I figured it'd be useful to watch.

Once I get done with all this video watching and instructional reading (where I can *find* actual text!), I need to Noalox it before I try to use it -- it's really much smaller (though a tad "fatter") than the Sigelei Zmax, which surprised me! But just handling it enough to fit the longer tube on, I like it already -- great device! So glad I finally got one, I've craved one of these since the first time I saw one!

:banana:
Andria
 

billybc96

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I've tried darn near every tank that has come down the pike in the last couple of years and when I leave the house for a day of work or activity, it is with a Kanger T2. They just plain work. Period. They rarely flood, never leak and produce a decent amount of vapor with a good flavor. Not the clouds of a RDA or the taste of a Kay Fun but a highly acceptable vape. Every time. As mentioned, you don't throw the atty away, you rinse and dry burn them every couple or few tanks. I just do mine once a day unless I'm around the house all day dripping or something. I would say I average 2-3 weeks per atty with heavy use. Pick up a good length of 2mm wick and change the flavor wick with every cleaning. T2 heads, unfortunately, are not practical to rebuild.

How do you go about changing the wick? What type of wick do you use? (For high VG I've heard organic cotton is good, or rayon, or are you just talking about regular silica wick material?) This is actually something I'm kind of interested in. My understanding is that the dry burn is done after the old wick is out, before the new wick goes in? Do you use any tools for working with the wick? What are good suppliers of wick for this purpose?
 

gerrymi

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No, I don't believe I've ever tried a cartotank. I've looked them up, but they seem a bit difficult for me to understand. Information on them seems sparse. I'm also not wild about the appearance of those I've seen, though the technical concept seems sound enough.

I can smell ya'!!! I spent the first 6 months of my vaping adventures ignoring CartoTanks because they appeared so confusing!

(When I finally did get my first CartoTank [an IBTanked] I started replacing all my "next, best" Clearomizers with them.)

So...no rush...if 6-8 months from now you decide to try something "completely different"...

Baditude:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/3318-3-ibtanked-pyrex-glass-tanks-review.html

Pictures:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tanks/484566-ibtanked-show-em-off.html

Now that I'm making nano coils for my pt2, I need vw device that puts out more wattage then my trusty v3

Higher Wattage devices I'm currently considering...

3.0W-15.0W:

$19.87 eGo-V V4 Variable Volt/Watt 1300mAh Battery - 3.0-6.0V / 3.0-15.0W at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

7.0W-30.0W:

$56.00 HANA MODZ Pack DNA 30 Style Mod - 1*18650 / 7W-30W at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

A lot of people on ECF seem to love their Fasttech Hana Modz:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-hana-modz-dna-30-clone-arrived-today-ft.html
 

atroph

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How do you go about changing the wick? What type of wick do you use? (For high VG I've heard organic cotton is good, or rayon, or are you just talking about regular silica wick material?) This is actually something I'm kind of interested in. My understanding is that the dry burn is done after the old wick is out, before the new wick goes in? Do you use any tools for working with the wick? What are good suppliers of wick for this purpose?

Hi for wick changing you may need a set of tweezers or very thin needle nose pliers. For stock setups all you need to do is gently slip the old wick out. Sometimes it may need a slight twist but it should come right out for the most part. Also discard the top wick pieces.

For rewicking I use rayon but using cotton the process is about the same. It does take a little trial and error but the learning curve is super easy and once you do a few it becomes second nature.

IRT rayon I use enough so that it squeaks through the coil. Not super tight but definitely making contact. Rayon will shrink per se when it gets saturated.

For cotton you want to use a little less than rayon but still enough to touch the coil when you slip it in (heh heh heh). Cotton will expand when it gets saturated.

I usually pick a piece of rayon off of the roll and gently compress it and aligning the fibers. I don't twist the entire thing only the first cm or so that it makes a nice point. Put the point in the center of the coil and gently slide it through working it a little so that it doesn't snag on the coil and break it. Same process for cotton. Finally snip the ends so that they are even with the bottom or base of the coil unit. Add a drop or two of juice to your newly installed wich and pop the chimney cap back on. Fill your topper, screw the base on and vape away.

Edit: It is a good idea to dry burn the coil once the wick is out to rid of any crud that may be built up on it. Simply fire the base with the coil unit and no topper. The coil will glow and that is ok, but don't do it for long as it could melt the insulator at the bottom or destroy the coil. What I do is dryburn it and then hit it with a little water from the faucet to rinse anything away. Dry burn it again to make sure it is dry and then proceed to wick.

Now on to supplies:
Cotton:
Walgreens Organic Cotton Balls (Studio 35 Green Label) $4 for about 80 balls
Koh Gen Do Organic Cotton Pads (never bought any)
Walmart Peaches and Cream ECRU Yarn $2 for about 100ft

Rayon:
Sally Beauty Supply Graham Cellucotton #44060 $12 for 550 ft

HTH.

Since you are thinking about rewicking I'd suggest the possibility of recoiling too. We'll address that when you are ready! :)

Here is a rayon build that I had disassembled for some type of reference (nevermind that fancy pants coil, we'll start simple):

From: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...etter-flow-flavor-saturation-nic-hit-481.html

Interesting results from a different build I did the other day. I used some of that twisted 32 ga that I posted earlier in a T3S that needed recoiling. 7 wraps around 1.95mm drill bit yielded 1.4 ohms. Wicked with the usual suspect.

Results. This thing really vaped well! Surprisingly well! I went through the entire 3 mL in no time and the flavor persisted vice falling off a bit once full soak had taken place on the wick. Once I drained the tank I took a few photos.

IMG_9989.JPG


IMG_9992.JPG


IMG_9996.JPG


IMG_9998.JPG


To this date I have never had a coil and/or wick come out this clean. I usually kept the power at 6 to 6.5 watts and my older builds the wick would get "blacker" in the middle and this one seems like it was barely phased. This is after a quick rinse but I don't think it made any difference other than removing the remaining juice.

I am going to try something with chocolate in it (choc chip cookie) and see if it withstands. I believe that my old setup the coil was getting too hot too fast and it was burning the juice on top. This one doesn't seem to have that problem.

Yay! I now have a purpose for the 32 ga that I had set off to the side.
 
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