You know, I never even noticed that. Thanks for pointing it out!Got my iTaste EP in today, one thing I really like is the floating center pin. Can't over screw in a tank and have to pull up the center pin to make contact (which I have to do on the VV V3.0) it is spring loaded on the EP. Wonder why innokin did not do that with the VV V3.0? Or for that matter all there products? It is a great idea. I took a pen, and you can press it down and it springs back up, Really Good Idea for all connections, IMHO....
vape On
Burnie
The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group
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http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gotvapes/445600-new-innokin-itaste-holder-lanyard-your-itaste-vv-3-0-others-niftyness.html
I know you may not want to order from this particular vendor, but the pic should give you a good idea of function. I razor bladed a cutout for the display near the bottom.
Haha, good memory.
Although i would still order from them if the price is right. Although they are sold out.
I would like to add, that they do have pretty good customer service and tried to help me with my itaste 10s kit, its just since they did not pay for return shipping on the two different batteries and had to deduct the credit card fee, and could not or would not take back the opened 10s clearos that would not fit the battery i lost a lot of money. And i didnt even bother with the $70 mvp2, return shipping charges and partial credit i just chalked it up as a loss. I should have contacted innokin directly but was too much of a newbie to know.
Eta i found it else where how do u like yours?
Although i would still order from them if the price is right. Although they are sold out.
I would like to add, that they do have pretty good customer service and tried to help me with my itaste 10s kit, its just since they did not pay for return shipping on the two different batteries and had to deduct the credit card fee, and could not or would not take back the opened 10s clearos that would not fit the battery i lost a lot of money. And i didnt even bother with the $70 mvp2, return shipping charges and partial credit i just chalked it up as a loss. I should have contacted innokin directly but was too much of a newbie to know.
Eta i found it else where how do u like yours?
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Got my iTaste EP in today, one thing I really like is the floating center pin. Can't over screw in a tank and have to pull up the center pin to make contact (which I have to do on the VV V3.0) it is spring loaded on the EP. Wonder why Innokin did not do that with the VV V3.0? Or for that matter all there products? It is a great idea. I took a pen, and you can press it down and it springs back up, Really Good Idea for all connections, IMHO....
Vape On
Burnie
I keep saying it, I just hope Innokin will listen. We need a floating pin on the VV/MVP. They also need to adjust/reduce the ego threading.
They will. They need to put something on the MVP 3.0..... (grin....)
A spring loaded/floating center pin and 6v capability would make the MVP a perfect device in my opinion. It sucks one of my favorite tanks (ismoka bcc mega) won't work with my v3 or MVP2. I'm a little hesitant to pry on the center pin. With my luck I'd break it.
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Also, spring-loaded center pins have been known to push the center pin of the juice delivery device up so far that it won't work on batteries that don't have spring-loaded center pins.
When holding the two buttons down; The + and the - , the device will give you the resistance reading correct? What does the resistance stand for and what its purpose..like what does it do? Does this resistance change depending on what tank you put on your battery? 
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This resistance value will change if you load a different coil/topper onto your device, assuming it was not identical in resistance to the previous one. It is important to know the resistance of what you're vaping on so you know what voltage to dial in to. Unless you're using variable wattage mode, then your APV does all the math for you. Having a visible resistance readout is of particular importance to those who rebuild.
Yes, the resistance changes when you change your topper (provided it's of a different resistance). Resistance is measured in ohms and your voltage squared, divided by your resistance (ohms) equals power (watts).
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I have 2.2 coils in my optimizer tech phenom tank. When I hit the + and - I get a reading of A = 2.3. So what does this mean? When using this chart:Watts - volts - amps - ohms conversion calculator
I put in 2.2 ohms in the ohms box and 7 watts, which that is what I am running and I get like 1.78 which is about 1.8 amps. I am confused trying to figure all of this out as I am getting a burnt taste in my tank every now and then and I even try priming it some I dunno. Maybe its just a cheap tank. Plus I am trying to learn how to get all my settings set the best for best flavor and vapor production to my hit.
I put in 2.2 ohms in the ohms box and 7 watts, which that is what I am running and I get like 1.78 which is about 1.8 amps. I am confused trying to figure all of this out as I am getting a burnt taste in my tank every now and then and I even try priming it some I dunno. Maybe its just a cheap tank. Plus I am trying to learn how to get all my settings set the best for best flavor and vapor production to my hit.
If you're getting the occasional burnt taste, you might want to step down to, say, 6.5 watts. Or take shorter / softer draws, as a long one can boil off the liquid faster than it can be wicked back in. Both of these - too high a power setting and too long / hard a draw, can cause the burnt taste.
IMO, there's no magic set of numbers. It's a question of adjusting to taste. Once there, sure, the numbers can help you get to that point when you wind up with a different resistance coil - but then, that's what VW is for anyway.
Different liquids may taste better at different power levels, so if you change flavors you may want to adjust.
IMO, there's no magic set of numbers. It's a question of adjusting to taste. Once there, sure, the numbers can help you get to that point when you wind up with a different resistance coil - but then, that's what VW is for anyway.
Different liquids may taste better at different power levels, so if you change flavors you may want to adjust.
Yeah I have dropped it to 6.5 and that is what I have been vaping on. Although the hit aint as strong. I dunno, I am in the process of elimination to my liking lol. As far as VW goes, I have heard it is better to run in VW mode, is this true? Why is this?
VW is sometimes said to be "set and forget", and up to a point, there's some truth to that.
Assuming you're using the same liquid, you'll (theoretically) get the same vape no matter what the resistance value of the coil. So if you replace the coil and the new one happens to be a different ohm value, the battery in VW mode will automatically adjust the voltage to deliver the same heat to the new coil. Or if the coil value changes over time, again the VW mode will automatically take care of that.
Now, if you change to a different liquid, you still might want to change the watt setting to get the best flavor from the different liquid, so it's not really "set and forget."
In VV mode, you tell the battery what voltage to use. The battery will then deliver that (within it's capability, of course) no matter what the coil resistance, so the vape power will vary depending on that resistance. Change coils, you have to change the voltage to get the vape you like. You can do the math, if you want, to calculate the watts, or, like most of us, just take the voltage up in steps until it starts to burn, then back off a step or two.
So in a sense, VW mode is "easier" - once you determine the watts you like for a given flavor, just set that. And maybe change it to the watts you like for a different flavor...
Assuming you're using the same liquid, you'll (theoretically) get the same vape no matter what the resistance value of the coil. So if you replace the coil and the new one happens to be a different ohm value, the battery in VW mode will automatically adjust the voltage to deliver the same heat to the new coil. Or if the coil value changes over time, again the VW mode will automatically take care of that.
Now, if you change to a different liquid, you still might want to change the watt setting to get the best flavor from the different liquid, so it's not really "set and forget."
In VV mode, you tell the battery what voltage to use. The battery will then deliver that (within it's capability, of course) no matter what the coil resistance, so the vape power will vary depending on that resistance. Change coils, you have to change the voltage to get the vape you like. You can do the math, if you want, to calculate the watts, or, like most of us, just take the voltage up in steps until it starts to burn, then back off a step or two.
So in a sense, VW mode is "easier" - once you determine the watts you like for a given flavor, just set that. And maybe change it to the watts you like for a different flavor...
I agree completely about carto tanks... I used one or two in the beginning of my journey prior to sufficient research and was discouraged by having under saturated my carts. So, I gave up. Used every clearo/tank etc. I bout all the tools to learn rebuilding coils for my kanger stuff but still never found total satisfaction. Early DecemberI decided to give cartos another try and I have been in vaping heaven ever since. And It has simplified things for me that all my rebuildable stuff is in the junk drawer for now. Carto tanks are awesome... Now if I could get verified to use the classified section I would love to PIF while getting a little bit of my $ back so I could stock up on cartos I would be even happier... Right now theecig.com has free, yes FREE tank tubes, you just need to pay 2.99 shipping. Only able to get 10 or they will cancel your order... I grabbed some tank ends while I was there as a thanks for freebies... I wont need a new tank for a long while (when I got my vv v3 I ordered a few glass dct's)... Can you share a link to the 'thingys' you are referring to and maybe a link showing how to use them? I sure would appreciate it! 
Right. Ok so in a sense VW is just easier being that it calculates the volts for you based on your coil?
-How would the coil value change over time? As you was telling me above?
Right. Ok so in a sense VW is just easier being that it calculates the volts for you based on your coil?
-How would the coil value change over time? As you was telling me above?
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