Or......If you have the caps, and chimney but broke the quartz you can go to a place like IB Tanked and get some really cool colors and designs. Pricey though.
The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group
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Or......If you have the caps, and chimney but broke the quartz you can go to a place like IB Tanked and get some really cool colors and designs. Pricey though.
I didn't know IBtanked made 22mm tanks -- all I saw there was 19mm and 25mm. Maybe they were out of stock of the 22mms at the time.
Andria
The original clear tubes on the KF are pmma or poly, not glass, and threaded to the end caps. But you can get a "kit" to convert to pyrex. Don't know what size they are, but I'd suspect 22 mm.
Well it looks like my pearl white beauty is about to bite the dust, lived for 9 months. Out of nowhere, the switch will stay on after I press it, and I have to press it again (often several times) before it shuts off. It's also not seeming to make contact with my toppers - both my PT2 and MiniPT2 dump all the juice onto the contact without it vaporizing, even while the firing button stays on...
If anyone has any ideas, I'm open. Otherwise it looks like she's seeing her last days.
If anyone has any ideas, I'm open. Otherwise it looks like she's seeing her last days.
Alisa1970, I'm sorry to hear your pearl white iTaste v3 has finally given up on you. 9 months of service for a 900mah vv/vw battery (that can be replaced these days for under $30), that is not bad performance. I hope I get 9 months of use out of mine, but I'm used to 450-650mah batteries that I usually only get a few good months of service from. That's just one more thing I like about the iTaste v3 compared to what I'm used to - though I'm still getting used to the extra length and weight.
So far, I'm actually rather liking the vape I get off of an iClear 16 topper, though they do appear to have some mouthpiece condensation flooding issues (the drip tip is rather narrow and small). That's surprising to me, considering all the money I've spent on other clearomizer models I've ended up being disappointed with. Unfortunately, the iClear 16 can still excessively flood, like most of the other bottom feeders I've tried (despite being a top feeder), mainly when I'm vaping in bed. So, for situations like that, I use the Kanger T2, which never seems to flood (or anything else negative) under any circumstances. I just wish the T2 vaped as well as some of the competition, but it doesn't quite do that. The head on the iClear 16 also seems to be giving me better than average life expectancy, 3 pretty good days so far, but I can tell I won't be getting more than another day or two out of it before the DC head needs to be replaced, cleaned or otherwise fixed.
So far, I'm actually rather liking the vape I get off of an iClear 16 topper, though they do appear to have some mouthpiece condensation flooding issues (the drip tip is rather narrow and small). That's surprising to me, considering all the money I've spent on other clearomizer models I've ended up being disappointed with. Unfortunately, the iClear 16 can still excessively flood, like most of the other bottom feeders I've tried (despite being a top feeder), mainly when I'm vaping in bed. So, for situations like that, I use the Kanger T2, which never seems to flood (or anything else negative) under any circumstances. I just wish the T2 vaped as well as some of the competition, but it doesn't quite do that. The head on the iClear 16 also seems to be giving me better than average life expectancy, 3 pretty good days so far, but I can tell I won't be getting more than another day or two out of it before the DC head needs to be replaced, cleaned or otherwise fixed.
Well it looks like my pearl white beauty is about to bite the dust, lived for 9 months. Out of nowhere, the switch will stay on after I press it, and I have to press it again (often several times) before it shuts off. It's also not seeming to make contact with my toppers - both my PT2 and MiniPT2 dump all the juice onto the contact without it vaporizing, even while the firing button stays on...
If anyone has any ideas, I'm open. Otherwise it looks like she's seeing her last days.
I have a Chameleon that has a wonky switch. My fault, I am very rough on equipment. I closed it in a trunk lid while out picking Ramps this spring . If yours hasn't had any trauma, perhaps it is just dirty. I would try cleaning it with a blast from that aerosol spray in a can used to clean your key board etc. What I do for mine is take the topper off and tape it three or four times on my desk and it stops sticking (but I would try that as a last resort). As for the contact issue, it is very common on the both the VV and the MVP. See my blogs for an article on the many fixes for the problem.
I have ten months on my Chameleon and if it bellied up today, I would feel I got my monies worth out of it. Best of luck with yours. I hope you are able to get a little more time out of that button.
I started at the end of January with just one itastevv, and accumulated five. They all do seem to get weird with the 'on-off' button and lose battery life (which could also be my fault for recharging too early). This why I'm experimenting with the EP. Looks almost identical (no vv) but the battery cost me $10.95. If it last five months that'll be a win for me.
Well, I see that the cost of my "ex" --- Kool Milds -- increased here by .25 per pack. So now I'm saving even more money! (I mean, now I can send Ahlusion more money!)
Well, I see that the cost of my "ex" --- Kool Milds -- increased here by .25 per pack. So now I'm saving even more money! (I mean, now I can send Ahlusion more money!)
Charging "early" won't hurt, and likely will help, so that's not it. There are a finite but varying number of times it can be recharged, estimated based on full dis-charge cycles. Recharging early could count as, say 1/2 a charge cycle.
Running at max power (or close) will stress the battery.
Running at max power (or close) will stress the battery.
Thanks, but I thought I had read that it was a bad idea to charge early - as with other small appliances like Dust Busters - that doing so would limit the future charging capacity. I'd be very happy to learn that that's not so.
Here's a thread from ECF that might help with the charging questions....http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/8852-li-ion-batteries-truth.html
And from Battery University....Frequetly Asked Questions on How to Charge Batteries. Scroll down a bit to get to the graph.
And from Battery University....Frequetly Asked Questions on How to Charge Batteries. Scroll down a bit to get to the graph.
Early charging was a big issue with Ni-cd batteries. It would create a battery "memory" where the lessened capacity would become the full chargeable amount. Some of us were still in ni-cd mindsets when we switched over to li-on, but through much research I have learned that if anything, charging early may be beneficial
Yup, Dustbusts and the like use NiCad cells, not Lithium. The "memory" on them was a big problem. Short of a total discharge/recharge cycle - maybe repeated several times - there isn't a good way to bring them back. But Lithium is a whole different animal, no "memory" to worry about.
Thank you all! I appreciate the help.
I can reciprocate in my field of expertise: did anyone need to know how to make a bias binding (I sew)?
I can reciprocate in my field of expertise: did anyone need to know how to make a bias binding (I sew)?
Actually, yes
(I sew too.. ) NOT to demean your statement but to add to the humor?
Paul from Innokin-
"The Warranty is covered by all Authorized Innokin vendors. 101vape.com is not an Authorized Innokin vendor and you will have to speak with them directly about their After Sales Service program.
Authorized Innokin Vendors advertise as such on their websites and also have plaques in their B&M stores. We will also have a store locator launched very soon which lists and locates all of our Authorized Vendors."
Anyone know who the Authorized dealers are??
"The Warranty is covered by all Authorized Innokin vendors. 101vape.com is not an Authorized Innokin vendor and you will have to speak with them directly about their After Sales Service program.
Authorized Innokin Vendors advertise as such on their websites and also have plaques in their B&M stores. We will also have a store locator launched very soon which lists and locates all of our Authorized Vendors."
Anyone know who the Authorized dealers are??
Actually, yes
I'm not really sure what a "bias binding" *is*... but I'd sure give a lot to know how to put a zipper in a pair of pants whose zipper self-destructed. Although I might have already thrown that pair away, for lack of knowledge of how to fix them... the problem might arise again at some point.
I've heard that zipper setting is one of the more difficult arts of sewing.
Andria
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Bias binding is when your prejudices become set... 
(Actually, although I'm a bit rusty, I did have to teach my first wife how to use a sewing machine....)
(Actually, although I'm a bit rusty, I did have to teach my first wife how to use a sewing machine....)
A bias binding is a thin strip of fabric, cut on the diagonal, and sewn to the neckline, or other edge, to give a nice edge finish. The bias, or diagonal, has more stretch than the straight grain, and will curve easily around a curved opening.
It's funny how people seem to freak out about sewing a zipper! They're really not scary at all. The biggest deal was always to make sure it didn't show when completed, I see, though, that in current fashion, the zip is often sewn in an exposed style (down the back of a dress).
Now, replacing a zipper in a garment IS more complicated...you'd have to rip out the broken one, first of all. I'm assuming it's a fly-front?Then, replacement. In pants, it's tricky, because part of the garment is in front of the zipper and part is behind it. Soooo, yes, this is one I would take to a tailor to replace. It's a simple job for a tailor and I assume it wouldn't cost much.
I'm currently working on a pair of pants and sewing a classically tailored fly-front has about fifteen steps. Kind of unnecessary in women's pants.
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