If you watch the video on MM's site for assembling the switch you will see that he is just running up the contacts not even really snug.
The Poldiac Fan Club
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The thing is with the end contacts you have a reverse threaded screw going into them to make contact with the battery on one end and the atty on the other, and you want those to be tight, but tightening them loosens the contact screws going into the switch, so it's a bit tricky, and you have to have the contacts into the switch tight enough to stay put.
The battery contact will never move, once you set it. The screw that contacts the rice pin is not threaded tight. If you have the rev. threaded one tight on the battery end, it will still make good contact w battery.
The atty end--make the rice pin contact screw that screws into the housing a bit loose--not threaded all the way down.
The way i use my attys--so there isnt a gap between atty and Poldiac--i screw atty flush onto top cap. Then make little micro-adjustments w rev screw--until it is making good contact w atty. Sometimes i have a little gap between end-cap and the 'shirt'. Changing attys on and off the Poldi may be messing up your screws adjustments.
The atty end--make the rice pin contact screw that screws into the housing a bit loose--not threaded all the way down.
The way i use my attys--so there isnt a gap between atty and Poldiac--i screw atty flush onto top cap. Then make little micro-adjustments w rev screw--until it is making good contact w atty. Sometimes i have a little gap between end-cap and the 'shirt'. Changing attys on and off the Poldi may be messing up your screws adjustments.
Yep I got that. I use the same attys on the same Poldis always. DID 1124 is always on Poldi 0361 Aname Sleek, and DID 1152 is always on Poldi 4493 Miriam WTH. Poldi 5029 Uma Classic always gets the brass Kraken, Poldi 4118 Freddy Classic always gets the stainless Kraken. All four have the attys lined up, atty air hole above the mech button via top rev screw, which all have an O-ring under them to keep them where I want them. Gap is as necessary to keep them that way, and minimal as possible. Changing attys between them is something I don't do other than to test them, and I don't change the rev screws for that.
All that being said, I tried your suggestion on the bottom contact and rev screws and that seems to be working. Backed it out a bit, after tightening the rev screw into it good and just putting it in lightly.
Just hope it keeps working....
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Okay, what are these parts for? I got them with my Poldiacs, but could not figure out what they were for, and now while digging for spare switch parts online I come across this on MMV's site saying they can replace the negative pole pin. One part screws into where the hot spring is, but I can't see how it's going to replace that, and the other part looks like it will screw into the bottom of the switch, and there's a spring, which I'm guessing goes under it, but I'm not sure. Has anyone else used these parts?
Negative pole pin with spring Rhodium Plated • MMVapors
I did manage to find spare delrin switch parts, MMV still has them, so I got two of them
Negative pole pin with spring Rhodium Plated • MMVapors
I did manage to find spare delrin switch parts, MMV still has them, so I got two of them
I have that s/u in my parts bag, and haven't used it. I don't know what the advantage would be.
Nor can I see what advantage there would be using those parts. With several spare hot springs in my MMV bag I'm good. Perhaps when I've run out of those I might try this other approach. The parts I most want are the pole screws and the double screws they go into, but alas, they are not to be found anywhere.
The Aname Sleek is right back to vaping weak again. I honestly don't know what the problem with this mod is, but every time I get it hitting strong again, it just goes right back to this. I tried Annie's suggestion about the screws in the ends of the switch, and that seemed to work, for a little while, but over the day today it just went right back to hitting weak. I'm out of ideas as to what might be the problem with this thing.
That part is for a solid negative connection. The small spring goes where the hot spring is, then you thread the solid cap on over it into the base cap. The screw replaces the screw on the bottom of the switch. I believe the it's used for better conductivity at the expense of safety (hot spring), which is why there is a warning for experienced users only.
I finally got it fixed. The Aname Sleek issue is resolved at last. It's not fading out on me anymore. I resorted to unorthodox means, but it worked, and I'm happy again
but ... but ... what was 'this' unorthodox means?
Well, without going into too much detail, it involved an 11th century Celtic exorcism ritual, recommended only in extremis as the sword is rather pricey, and a pair of heavy duty zircon encrusted tweezers. That's all I can tell you at this time.
$225 is kinda high, but they are hard to find now a days, so I don't know. I don't remember seeing a Poldi with round holes in the bottom cap before, so it looks a little odd to me.
Could it be a Ft Poldi?
$12.75 Poldiac V2 Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / 1*18500 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Could it be a Ft Poldi?
$12.75 Poldiac V2 Style Mechanical Mod - stainless steel / 1*18500 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
My brass Poldiac Belial Sleek has those round holes on the bottom & ovals on the top. It looks just like that one.
Yeah, $225 is kinda high, but remember that when they were making them back in the day they went for $260.
That's why I scooped up 4 of them really fast when they put them on sale for $80-$90.
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