The Roller SS-P telescopic battery mod from atmizoo

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Dizz

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I just removed the round delrin piece in the bottom cap and put in a Silver Bullet copper hot spring , the difference is night and day in performance I am now getting 0.1-0.2 voltage drop under load on a 1.0-1.3 ohm coil , it is hitting really hard:)


14e15kw.jpg

I just tried this and my Roller is amazing now, and to think I almost sold it because it was not performing the way I anticipated it would. This is just a crazy find if you ask me....I am stoked, thx much Atlantisboy!!!!
 

2nd chance

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I just removed the round delrin piece in the bottom cap and put in a Silver Bullet copper hot spring , the difference is night and day in performance I am now getting 0.1-0.2 voltage drop under load on a 1.0-1.3 ohm coil , it is hitting really hard:)

14e15kw.jpg

Thats what I did, what a difference it made.
 

cowfood

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theops

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theops

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Shiryo

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If you remove the main (inner) tube or 510 connector without cleaning the leaked juice, there won't be any pressure on that sealing o-ring under the 510 connector. Check out the "Important Tips" here -- Support - Roller / Dingo | atmizoo vaping modware

If you assemble the Inner Tube & Switch Housing and then tighten the 510 connector, you should feel the 510 connector press lightly on that o-ring as you reach the end of the thread.

Not sure if I follow, I was getting juice leakage out of the box, I never dissembled it prior to finding out there was juice getting into the switch and into the battery tubes.

Skip to 5m7s

 
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theops

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hoodieweather

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We have releases every week or so. We always post announcements via FB, Twitter & atmizoo.com with details, incl. the exact dates and times. The next release will be - most likely - this weekend, or early next week :)

Awesome. Any chance they'll be at vaperev? I was planning on buying from their site.
 

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Shiryo

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Still getting some juice leakage. Main tube assembly and 510 connector are as tight as possible, don't want to damage anything trying to put too much force on them.

Here's my post on the Support section of Atmizoo.

I seem to be having a juice leaking issue with my Roller (RO40), I posted this on ECF before and I was told to tighten down the 510 connector, but it’s already tightened down as far as it could go. Also, I noticed the juice leaking issue straight out the box, meaning after using it without ever disassembling it, I had the juice leaking issue. This is the second time i’ve disassembled it to clean out the switch components, this time I documented it with pictures.

I’m wondering if I could go to a hardware store and pick up a thicker and softer o-ring that sits on top of the 510 connector.

Also wondering when will RO40 users get the upgrades to RO50 and what was updated, couldn’t find the update info on it.

This how I realize the switch assembly has been breached with juice:






After removing visible juice with Q-Tip then removing 510 connector:


Axle is drenched in juice:


Switch Assembly is filled with juice:




 

cowfood

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Yikes, that is a lot of juice. I generally only use attys that don't have leaks on mods that I care about, and throw the leaky ones on ego's or other mods that are meant for such. I undertand your concern but, honestly, that's a lot of leakage, and the atty would be my first point of concern.. That being said, I see no o-ring on your center post screw.. It sits under the head of the adjustable screw..
 

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cowfood

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That one is not for insulation, since the bottom of the pole-adjustment screw thread is not hollow. It's simply for providing added "grip" to the screw when using a classic connector.

My guess is that your liquid sealing o-ring may be damaged in some way, or it may be the wrong thickness (it should be ~2.0mm) -- I cannot imagine anything else, really. If it's not the o-ring, then we'll need to take a look at the unit in order to find what's wrong if it.

We should get that leak issue sorted out, but I'd take a look at the atomizer, too :) From a strictly technical viewpoint, this amount of leakage is an atomizer issue, since it can block your air intake and produce annoying gurgling noises. It's the *atomizer* that's designed to hold the liquid...

The RO40-to-RO50 code bump does not imply that any updates were made. The number is just a code for the production date. There have been no notable functional changes, only production process improvements.

Just out of curiosity, I have that mini screw (positive post) o-ring installed with the recessed 510 connector installed. I am able to seat my RBA's flush, but is this a bad idea for the long run? If I do decide to, what is the best way to remove this o-ring it's so small and what tool / tools are best suited for this?
-CF
 
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