ha, and on THIS tank, it being empty first is no longer an excuse
There has been leakage the last 2 times I filled. So we will go for empty
. Having trouble with that top o ring again.The Rose v2 Rebuildable Atomizer
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There has been leakage the last 2 times I filled. So we will go for empty
. Having trouble with that top o ring again.
Thank's for the response . I'll be checking in on this thread after I get mine .
When I filled mine the first couple of times I also had some leakage problems. It was because the end of the wicks had gotten pulled up out of their slots somewhat and after I pushed them back down the leakage stopped. So now I take a good look at them before I put the tank back on. I have had no leaking since.There has been leakage the last 2 times I filled. So we will go for empty
Does your mouthpiece appear to be too tight fitting in the tank top?
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One of the reasons I always do a top fill, don't like taking the chimney completely off the build, and mess with the wick tails.
It is. That's where its leaking from on filling. It arrived with that o ring torn. I replaced it, it was fine for a few tanks. Now its leaking there as I'm filling.
I was wondering if I could top fill it. Do you do it like a kayfun? Screw halfway, flip and cover airhole and finish tightening?
I always flip it over and remove the tank with chimney, never had a problem, wicks stay right where they are, I pack them in the first time and they never move till I re wick. I just push the chimney over to one side from the drip tip as I'm holding the tank upside down and fill. I don't push the chimney up past the threaded area of the tank and it doesn't leak. I never tried filling from the top, I just figured it probably holds more juice by removing the tank
So I got my FT clone in the mail on Monday. It's a very well put together piece of kit. I got the $30 one that comes with the base. The only flaw is that the airhole is set a little bit too low so the afc ring doesn't open it up fully, The draw is pretty tight, especially compared to a Fogger v4 or an Orchid. My first two attempts at building were utter failures. I tried a dual 28 gauge micro coil, then a single 28 gauge micro and couldn't get either one to work. It seems 28 gauge is just too thin for the grub screws to catch them properly in the post holes. Since I didn't have any thicker wire lying around I decided to twist up a couple of strands of the 28 gauge and do the single macro coil cross wick build and my third and final attempt was a success. Now sitting at 1.5 ohms, 6.3 volts 26 watts and it's putting out good vapour and amazing flavour. The learning curve on this thing is very very steep. Much more complicated than the Fogger and the Orchid. But the flavour is the best out of all the RTAs I have tried.
Pictures:
1. Sitting on my IPV2
2. Taken apart
3. Macrocoil
Pictures:
1. Sitting on my IPV2
2. Taken apart
3. Macrocoil
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28 gauge is what I have used in four of them, just saying
I feel that once one becomes familiar with the Rose it is pretty much as simple to service as a Taifun GT. just IMO of coarse.
I feel that once one becomes familiar with the Rose it is pretty much as simple to service as a Taifun GT. just IMO of coarse.
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Glad to hear your FT clone is working well for you. I have a clone on the way and expect it will vape just as well as an original. So many nice clones hitting the market now. About your AFC ring: it will ride high because the o-ring at the bottom is not fully seated. If you take out the o-ring, you will see that the hole lines up perfectly. I replaced the o-ring with a thinner silicone ring because mine was too fat.
Nice pic of your IPV2 box mod! I didn't realize they were so thin. How do you replace the battery once it is worn out?
Thanks! I'll give that a shot. I have a feeling it's going to be a tight draw regardless due to the restricted airflow in the chamber and chimney.
It's really not that thin. It only looks that way because the Rose v2 is HUGE. It takes a single 18650 battery. The back panel unscrews and you can pop it out to replace the battery.
Don't feel bad. Its a learning curve
. I'm using 28 gauge, but I messed up my build a few times on day one also . Put it away a few days and then my next attempt went perfect.
ok, but how do you rewick this? I think that's one reason why I do the duals the way I do, rewicking them is so easy, just pull the wick out of each one with a tweezer and then stick another wick in, trim it, juice it, then pack the ends in and go. also i never had a problem with 28ga but I twist my legs together before inserting them so really the ends should be about the same as the ends of your twisted
I have no idea how I'm going to re-wick it. The first time I wicked it, I put the cotton through the coil before I mounted it onto the deck. When I do the rewicking, I'll probably have to pull the coil off completely in order to get the cotton through it again. I might build it differently next time so that it'll be easier to rewick. I think this atty will take some trial and error in order for me to find the best build both for performance and ease of maintenance.
I cut it with scissors on one end, close to the coil and pull it out the other side. Then patience to get the new wick into the coil.
I received my 6.5 x 1 mm o-rings today, for sure now the stock size is 7 x 1 mm, but these fit perfectly fine.
Did my first dry burn on 1st Rose (silica), all is well. This one I put in one of the new o-rings.
Did my first dry burn on 1st Rose (silica), all is well. This one I put in one of the new o-rings.
Some of the reviews and videos suggest mounting the coil with the ceramic in place, that makes little sense to me. here is how I get it the coil in the ceramic ready ready to drop in.
Once you have the coil in the ceramic and have the leg trimmed to the desired length simply stare the thing square in it's eye, if they are not straight it's easily seen as in my exaggerated 1st picture.
Once corrected like in the 2nd picture it will about fall right in.
Once you have the coil in the ceramic and have the leg trimmed to the desired length simply stare the thing square in it's eye, if they are not straight it's easily seen as in my exaggerated 1st picture.
Once corrected like in the 2nd picture it will about fall right in.
I tried a dual coil build today, but decided to go back to the diagonal single coil. I did get the wick in on my first shot and all done in under 5 minutes. So practice has really spd things up.
I think this is my favorite tank
And no leaks on filling. O ring was intact. Can't explain my last 2 filling experiences other than I had started from scratch again today with a clean tank and lubed that o ring first.
Afc now spins nicely so happy about that.
I think this is my favorite tank
And no leaks on filling. O ring was intact. Can't explain my last 2 filling experiences other than I had started from scratch again today with a clean tank and lubed that o ring first.
Afc now spins nicely so happy about that.
Looks exactly like one of the builds I first did, after an initial dual micro's, but I used tri-twisted 28, and came in at 0.2 ohms, crap, so heck, threw it on the Big Nasty, since it has a large voltage drop, so wouldn't cook it to hard till broke in proper. Mech regulation through Voltage drop
Though after wick/build seasoning, threw it on the stingray.On the Authentic, noticed the air ring on one, was installed up side down, simply broke base apart and flipped it over. Once I went below 0.4 ohms, took the damn thing off, so air is always wide open.
To re-wick Rose2, on not wick Rose too??? that was the dilemma, my solution was to get rid if the C-cup, giving ample room for re-wicking, and would peal back some fiber on each side, to drop down to the deck, to recover any over wicking and focus air flow around build.
Also find threading the huge midi coils are much easier then the micro's, and on the Rose, flavor, vape and wicking was much better at high watts.
Re-wick and dry burn of coil was the major reason I don't use the C-cup
for anything but positioning the coil legs and making sure have as long of coil as possible, utilizing all the build space. I now have 22 gauge in them, and just received som 24 for the Estia, and will try in the rose too.
Stanthemanchan, you were right, the hole is off-center! Got my Rose clone today (from e-cloudvapes) and right away, I had problems. The o-ring in the top cap was too big and already shredded and the o-ring below the AFC ring was torn. I was able to replace both o-rings from my growing collection of parts and finally got it working, but it wasn't easy. I feel the top cap hole should have been chamfered to prevent the sharp edge from cutting the o-ring. Also the chimney threads were very rough, making it hard to screw on without cross threading.
For less than $40 and a little work, I have a usable Rose, so I'm somewhat satisfied. But I think that someone using the Rose for the first time would have regretted buying this clone.
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