The Tesla has an Achilles Heel

[Rickajho]

Not happy.

Overall I like the Tesla. It's been in daily use for a bit over four months - and appears to be reaching the end of it's life span. The problem is: the power button on these things. It has never provided a "firm" tactile feedback. No sense or feel of a "click" when you hit the power button as on a Vamo or, hell, even any eGo battery.

It seems as time went on the power button just went more and more "soft". You would press it, the Tesla would function, but you lose any feel that you are actually pushing on the button. No on/off play in it at all.

It's now at the point where just running my finger across the button from left to right is enough to turn make it fire. (More like misfire actually.) Barely any pressure at all on the fire button activates it. This is not acceptable. I wouldn't even consider it safe at this point - laying it down fire button facing down may be enough to activate it.

I have seen at least one other report of this problem on ECF. In that case the Tesla was so bad it was on and staying on. Period.

The Tesla is definitely off my personal recommendations list at this point. Does anyone know how to disassemble a Tesla without damaging it? I need to get in there to find out what the heck they used for the power switch. And more importantly - if there is anything to be done to salvage it.

Really - not happy.

 

[dam718]

If you can get the thing apart (I've never tried) the power button should be a standard PCB mounted momentary microswitch. If it's a single sided PCB, you should be able to desolder it and replace it. If it's a double sided PCB, it could be a bit more difficult.

I would have to see the switch though before I attempted to match it with a replacement part number. If you can get the PCB out and get a good picture of the power switch and mounting lug configuration on thebottom side of the PCB, I'll see if I can find a replacement switch for ya from some of my component distributors.

 

[emus]

Even industrial switches can fail after thousands of cycles.
mad vapes has a few switches.
Mouser and Newark have thousands.

 

[Rickajho]

Not sure what's going on in there. The are using both sides of the PCB, as the adjustment buttons and display mount to one side, and the fire button mounts on the other side. At least that much can be seen through the battery tube.

You know, this thing has never felt like a microswitch even. It's always had the feel of a cheap leaf spring of some sort. No click at all, and a very soft 'mushy' feel to it. Right now, if I lay it flat with the fire button down, just the lightest touch rocking it side to side will fire the damned thing.

Will wait on hearing if anyone has ever tackled disassembly. It looks like it all happens via the 510 cap. Question is how. Press fitted? Screw on? No idea.

 

[proraptor]

My Tesla is still running strong with no problems....

 

[ZeroDisorder]

I've had my Tesla since pre-order and I've used it for about 6 months regularly. I just pocketed it when I was fabricating something at work. It was a rather heavy metal fabrication place, and I've had no problems with it. The switch, I admit, has gotten less tactile, but only by about 20% of what it used to be when new. I've seen a lot of Teslas that have had their 510 connector come out, and seems to be the most common problem. I have no idea what people are doing these things, as I've put mine in quite harsh conditions and have not had it break or fail.

As far as disassembly goes, it is possible to remove the top cap to get access to the board itself. It's no easy feat without considerable marring. I had to use a mill vice with nylon inserts, and some soft jawed pump pliers to get it off with minimal marring.

I don't remember the switch type or mounting style, but I'd assume it's a standard micro switch. It might be SMD, but through hole is not uncommon. I had it apart to replace the 510 connector.

Good luck!

 

[Kirkwood]

I'm probably not helping but, if they just press fit a Provari top cap, more than likely it's the same on a Tesla.

 

[Rickajho]

I've had my Tesla since pre-order and I've used it for about 6 months regularly. I just pocketed it when I was fabricating something at work. It was a rather heavy metal fabrication place, and I've had no problems with it. The switch, I admit, has gotten less tactile, but only by about 20% of what it used to be when new. I've seen a lot of Teslas that have had their 510 connector come out, and seems to be the most common problem. I have no idea what people are doing these things, as I've put mine in quite harsh conditions and have not had it break or fail.

As far as disassembly goes, it is possible to remove the top cap to get access to the board itself. It's no easy feat without considerable marring. I had to use a mill vice with nylon inserts, and some soft jawed pump pliers to get it off with minimal marring.

I don't remember the switch type or mounting style, but I'd assume it's a standard micro switch. It might be SMD, but through hole is not uncommon. I had it apart to replace the 510 connector.

Good luck!

Mine isn't broken as such. lol - I want to know why you had to replace the 510 connector!

I dunno. Have you ever seen a surface mount power switch in a Bluetooth earphone? The feel of the power switch in a Tesla reminds me of that. You press and it does something - but you have no feedback as if you actually depressed much of anything. It would be really sad to find out they used something like that in there. It's never felt/responded like the two small setting buttons which always give tactile feedback and an obvious click. (Still do.) The Fire button feels like you are pushing on the lid of a margarine tub or something. Soft and indistinct.

Anyway, if you don't mind, beyond the needed brute force and good clamping how does the 510 cap come off? Is it just press fitted on there? Did you find any glue or epoxy making the job more difficult? Did a twisting motion get it to loosen up? I can see you sure as hell don't get a lot to grab onto.

 

[Dannyboy5691]

I've had mine for about 7 months and the button clicks everytime I press it. No problems at all. Sorry to hear about yours.

 

[Rickajho]

I've had mine for about 7 months and the button clicks everytime I press it. No problems at all. Sorry to hear about yours.

The fire button on mine has never provided any click on/off sensation as the two small +/- minus buttons do. I thought it was the way it was designed. Now I'm wondering if a squishy fire button is a manufacturing defect rather than a feature.

 

[Dannyboy5691]

The fire button on mine has never provided any click on/off sensation as the two small +/- minus buttons do. I thought it was the way it was designed. Now I'm wondering if a squishy fire button is a manufacturing defect rather than a feature.

That's very possible. I've only heard of a few Teslas that had problems. Some had the spring inserted improperly which was an easy fix, and a few more came from the factory with bad 510's on them. I think your the first person I've heard express problems with their button. Wish I could help you out. Maybe it's time for a mech? Lol!

 

[Rickajho]

That's very possible. I've only heard of a few Teslas that had problems. Some had the spring inserted improperly which was an easy fix, and a few more came from the factory with bad 510's on them.

I take it you are talking about the center pin spring on the 510 connector, rather than an easy fix for the button.

I think your the first person I've heard express problems with their button. Wish I could help you out. Maybe it's time for a mech? Lol!

So not funny...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/416204-need-help-my-tesla.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ivape/388543-tesla-wont-fire.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/470299-help-tesla-mod.html?highlight=tesla

Here's a couple few besides mine.

 

[State O' Flux]

So hey, Rick me boyo... what next then eh? ;-)

 

[adventuredog]

The fire button is going out on my Tesla too... The problem I'm having is when I swap out the battery it takes about 50-75 times of hitting the button to get it to actually turn back on. I'm also having issues with it cutting out in the middle of a vape. Other than the button issue (and the fact that if you spill a drink on it, it shorts out, I love this thing. But am very displeased that I'm going to have to replace it after only 7 months of daily locomotive puffage.

I've tried Vamo's but at the same wattage/voltage as the Tesla, they seem to hit harshly. I can't use a 510 connector on either one that the hubby has. 1st one stripped out, 2nd one never would take a 510 straight from Fast Tech... the older model Vamo doesn't give me any airflow if I use it with an EVOD. I have 1 old style 510 drippy atty that will work with the old style one (doesn't have enough room for an EVOD,) but any other 510 connector cross threads. I won't throw more $$ down that useless pipe. Thinking I'd just buy another Tesla if I can find one for around $40, but won't if the button thing hasn't been fixed. Would like to stay with something that takes 18650's since I have a collection now.