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Did what I should have done earlier and read things a little close -- answered my own question... Sorry... 
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The VAMO has built-in battery protection and protected batteries can often interfere with the proper functioning of the VAMO. Use AW or Efest 1MR 18650 or 18350s. Panasonic CGR18650CHs also work very well and are particularly well-regarded. I think they are on sale on Amazon right now.
I have a Vamo v2 and have been using (2) 18350's in it with great results. I just got the CGR18650CH's flat top and they will not work. I tried magnets to see if maybe they are just too short, but that didn't do it either. They read 4.2 volts, the screen is dim, and I get the old 0.0 ohm reading from any cart's or clearo's. I get 8.1 volts from freshly charged 18350's and no problems. So what am I doing wrong? Both new 18650 batteries do the exact same thing in the Vamo. Need some ideas here.
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This doesn't sound like a battery problem.
My Panny's work fine and I've never seen "the old 0.0 ohm reading".
Maybe it is the Vamo. My other hardly used Vamo works with the 18650's. That seems odd. I'll have to try the new insulator I'll be getting from Avid Vapor for the 510 connector post and see if that does it.
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I bought 2 flat top 18650 (CGR18650CH) from Orbtronic. They only last about 2 hours in my Vamo. Am I missing something? Do I need button tops? I get allot more time from 2 18350's. I feel like I waisted my money.
I can easily vape through a 3 ml tank without running a Panny all the way down.
Are you sure you're charging them properly?
Button tops shouldn't make a bit of difference.
Either it works or it doesn't.
At 0.0 Ohms you are lucky that everything is still in one piece. You are practically shorting those poor batteries.
You better stop using that Vamo, and investigate why you get 0.0 Ohms.
Not a battery problem.... But it will be....soon.
You better stop using that Vamo, and investigate why you get 0.0 Ohms.
Not a battery problem.... But it will be....soon.
No thats a problem I was having with cartomizers and clearomizers ohm readings when the 510 connection pin was grounding on the body. Different issue, but may actually be related.
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Hi, I didn't want to read through this entire thread. Can someone please look at these batteries and tell me if I would be able to use them in the Vamo? I have been using these for at least a year and a half in various mods, VmodXL, Buzz Pro, Carlos' Juice Box. They are all Li-ion. From top to bottom is Powerizer rcr123a 3.6v, Ultrafire 16340 3.6v, Tenergy rsr123a 3.0v, and Trustfire 18650 3.7v
Thanks
Thanks
Hi, I didn't want to read through this entire thread. Can someone please look at these batteries and tell me if I would be able to use them in the Vamo? I have been using these for at least a year and a half in various mods, VmodXL, Buzz Pro, Carlos' Juice Box. They are all Li-ion. From top to bottom is Powerizer rcr123a 3.6v, Ultrafire 16340 3.6v, Tenergy rsr123a 3.0v, and Trustfire 18650 3.7v
Thanks
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I don't see any batteries there I could recommend someone using in an ecig.
Especially if they don't know their limitations.
That said, you may be able to get em to work. Might not be all that safe though.....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Really? The top two were sold as -specifically- for use at notcigs.com for the Buzz Pro. That's where I got them. The other two were highly recommended for 3.7 and 6 volt vaping on devices such as the silver bullet and early tube and box mods. Like I said, I've been using these batteries for years. I just want to know if they will work on the Vamo.
It looks like I haven't needed a new PV since -before- you started vaping, so forgive me if I'm not familiar with new technologies.
It looks like I haven't needed a new PV since -before- you started vaping, so forgive me if I'm not familiar with new technologies.
Hi, I didn't want to read through this entire thread. Can someone please look at these batteries and tell me if I would be able to use them in the Vamo? I have been using these for at least a year and a half in various mods, VmodXL, Buzz Pro, Carlos' Juice Box. They are all Li-ion. From top to bottom is Powerizer rcr123a 3.6v, Ultrafire 16340 3.6v, Tenergy rsr123a 3.0v, and Trustfire 18650 3.7v
Thanks
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conversion tool
You can google the datasheets and check, but here are a couple to get you started:
(PDF) RCR123a - max discharge 450ma. So really no. 2.5ohm head at 3.7 is drawing 3x the rated safe load. (1480 ma)
Ultrafire 16340 doesn't seem to have a datasheet, but all the *fire batts are trash.. so I'd go with "probably very much no".
Tenergy rcr123a - also super bad. Max discharge is LESS than 550ma..
English please lol. Sorry, I don't really know about batteries. Have no idea how to use that conversion tool. I -was- wondering how you could pull higher than 3.7 volts out of a 3.7 volt battery.
Battery University will teach, but basically think of it like a car. If the engine is rated for 5000 rpm, you might be able to get it to 8000, or it might explode. The more you do it, the more likely it is to detonate.
The tool is easy - put in what you know (battery voltage, max discharge in 'ma') and hit calculate, it will tell you the rest. (In that case, it will tell you how many ohms your head has to be to be safe.)
You want to be much lower than the rating if you are using more than 3.7V, since the voltage increase is not especially efficient.
For example, (PDF) this battery lists a 20A max discharge and 3.8V nominal voltage. So if you feed the converter "3.8V" and "20A" it says you would need a 0.2ohm head to run it at max. Totally safe for ecigs. (Anything higher than 0.2 will be lower amps. You can clear the amps field and tell it 2.5ohms and it will tell you 1.5 amps, much less than the listed-max of 20.)
(ETA: Also, I'd take the time to learn but then again, I'm a fan of my face.. This isn't a standard consumer device where someone else did all the work for you..)
The tool is easy - put in what you know (battery voltage, max discharge in 'ma') and hit calculate, it will tell you the rest. (In that case, it will tell you how many ohms your head has to be to be safe.)
You want to be much lower than the rating if you are using more than 3.7V, since the voltage increase is not especially efficient.
For example, (PDF) this battery lists a 20A max discharge and 3.8V nominal voltage. So if you feed the converter "3.8V" and "20A" it says you would need a 0.2ohm head to run it at max. Totally safe for ecigs. (Anything higher than 0.2 will be lower amps. You can clear the amps field and tell it 2.5ohms and it will tell you 1.5 amps, much less than the listed-max of 20.)
(ETA: Also, I'd take the time to learn but then again, I'm a fan of my face.. This isn't a standard consumer device where someone else did all the work for you..)
I am currently running imr 18350s stacked in my vamo but while those are charging have a smok 18650 2800 mah. I dont think that one is imr but seems to work fine. I hope it don't explode or vent in my face though. But the supplier I deal with says its ok but from what I have read I should get a efest 18650 button top OR IW IMR as my back up batt for when my imrs which I believe to be smoktech are charging.
I am betting all your batteries are ICR Li ons instead of IMR's.
They may work fine, but if you like running higher wattages better batteries would be a good idea.
They are designed to handle much higher amperage.
It's kinda hard to beat AW 18350's and Panasonic 18650's. (high drain or IMR that is....)
can i run the panasonic 18650 3400mah battery in the vamo v2? its flat top so has anyone tried it in thier vamo v2? thinking about getting a couple of them. I too don't wanna go thru this thread page by page looking.
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