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AG,maybe its because I'm viewing this on my cell,looks nothing like it use to.
ECF mobile that's what is says at the top of the page,I have always used my mobile here.
Supposedly there will some more 'corrective maintenance' sometime tonight. HERE'S a lil' mo info.
I actually like this brand new and improved "Quick Reply" box!
Auto Save?
Face-less-book connect?
Yeah, not so much.
Auto Save?
Face-less-book connect?
Yeah, not so much.
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I don't know if this has been tried before, but I was able to rock the barrel back and forth on an eGo battery and get a stock atomizer to bare 1 mm of the fluted area where the barrel goes over the bottom threaded connector. The surprise was that the fluting allows juice to enter nicely, like the slits on a Vapage atomizer. A wrap and a half of Scotch magic Tape on the barrel, and the upper gasket seals very well. The result is that in just a few seconds you can have a stock atomizer working on a VMOD. No drilling needed, no loose carto hack. I happen to have 3 ohm Joyes on hand, and so the vapor is nowhere as amazing as with a Boge carto, but it works well, frankly much better than any of the Vapage burners they sent me, and drawing less power.
I think that Brian is taken with the idea of "bufferless" burners. Personally, I far prefer having a bridge and mesh acting as a mini-reservoir, smoothing out the liquid peaks and troughs. I never did see the point of removing them. Feeding the atomizer can be done exactly as for the Vapage devices, but more leisurely. No harsh liquid starvation vapes, no drowning gurgl-a-rama. Sweet. Now that we can pick out almost any atty we want, everyone can have exactly the performance they like best. The atomizer can be optimally checked, rinsed and dry-burned by remounting on an eGo battery and removing the barrel entirely.
I think that Brian is taken with the idea of "bufferless" burners. Personally, I far prefer having a bridge and mesh acting as a mini-reservoir, smoothing out the liquid peaks and troughs. I never did see the point of removing them. Feeding the atomizer can be done exactly as for the Vapage devices, but more leisurely. No harsh liquid starvation vapes, no drowning gurgl-a-rama. Sweet. Now that we can pick out almost any atty we want, everyone can have exactly the performance they like best. The atomizer can be optimally checked, rinsed and dry-burned by remounting on an eGo battery and removing the barrel entirely.
Just tried this on a dead atty for practice. The inside of my index finger and thumb are sore now, very sore. How did you rock it to expose the fluted area? (As in, what did you use? Just your hands?)
I've been using a black Vmod for months, & I haven't lost paint on the threads, nor do they show any signs of stripping out.
It's not just YMMV. If the upper seal is tight, the cone threading has to work when it's tightened to push the gasket down. If it's loose it leaks; if it's tight there's no seepage even, but it's harder on the cone. It's manageable on a given device, for instance by using a more slippery tape to adjust the atomizer barrel diameter, but another tricky fine line for production.
Sorry ... meOW! You mount it on a good-sized battery and tighten. Then you hold this assembly with both hands and apply pressure with the thumbs at the joint like you're trying to break a pencil. As soon as it's yielded a bit, you turn it around and do it again. After a few rotations, the barrel starts feeling loose and you can expose a little of the fluting, or remove it entirely.
A fine line...yes!
You are way past what's needed to keep the upper seal tight!
There is no way your cone should look like that!
I realize your zealousness to make the Vmod work for you, but having everything so tight as to damage parts is unnecessary. If you have to put so much pressure on the threads to screw it down, something needs to change. The Vmod has very tight tolerances, and your method is overcompensating.
It's not "my method", it's very soft aluminum. All it takes is a couple times when you can't quite get it on easily, and one of yours will look like that too, because the material is soft enough you don't realize it. And what is this about tight tolerances, as in "precision", vs. zealousness and overcompensating? Why should everything that goes wrong get blamed on the user?
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When a device becomes damaged by a user trying to mod it, who should get the blame? Many of us have used the Vmod without stripping out the cone. If you have damaged the cone, you have exceeded the tolerances of the device.
Would this work on a carto as well...? (did you try this on a carto?)
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