Those that vape with cotton wicks, Primarilly in a Phoenix + other question

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Gr8Scott

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Two questions;

First, How long are you going between swapping out coils? I tend to vape with like flavors so I am not, as a rule, swapping out coils every new flavor. I have not popped a coil yet. Ever. In this Phoenix. So this little old wick is lookin' really black black.

Second,
Irregardless of Ohms per coil, is vapor production generally greater with more winds and longer coil

or

greater with fewer winds and fatter wick?


Donkeyshins! :)



Adding an edit:
Well as I think about it,

It takes me less than 10 minutes on a slow day to make a good serviceable wick-n-coil. More surface area will allow more thorough vaporization and poofs o' vapor. I may just need to play with different gauges of coil wire.

Just thinking that the best of both worlds would be several winds on a substantially wide wick. I like a watty vape, tenish :)
 
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juicejunky

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I use a RBA from reomods.com that is a modified Phoenix clone (I think). My experience is longer coil/more surface area gives better flavor/vaper. I make my coils on a 1.6mm mini screwdriver and use 100% cotton embroidery thread/yard that I double to run through the coil. I wouldn't think the thickness of the wick would matter as long as it wicks well enough to keep the coils wet.

I often change my wick without changing the coil. I made a wick needle by cutting a 2 inch piece of wire and folding it in half. I twist the tip and thread the new wick through the coil without even detaching the coil. Cut off the excess and I'm done. Takes a few seconds and I get a brand new wick for my still good coil.

Easier to dry burn or scrape off burnt juice built up on the naked coil before threading the new wick.
 

calpis

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I use a RBA from reomods.com that is a modified Phoenix clone (I think). My experience is longer coil/more surface area gives better flavor/vaper. I make my coils on a 1.6mm mini screwdriver and use 100% cotton embroidery thread/yard that I double to run through the coil. I wouldn't think the thickness of the wick would matter as long as it wicks well enough to keep the coils wet.

I often change my wick without changing the coil. I made a wick needle by cutting a 2 inch piece of wire and folding it in half. I twist the tip and thread the new wick through the coil without even detaching the coil. Cut off the excess and I'm done. Takes a few seconds and I get a brand new wick for my still good coil.

Easier to dry burn or scrape off burnt juice built up on the naked coil before threading the new wick.

What brand of yarn is it and where'd you pick it up at? I'm digging your method and want to try it the next time I rebuild.
 

juicejunky

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What brand of yarn is it and where'd you pick it up at? I'm digging your method and want to try it the next time I rebuild.


I went to Michael's and picked up DMC #5 100% cotton pearle embroidery thread. It's made in France. I bought natural/ecru and boil it before use. I also bought Patons Grace, #3 in natural from Canada (made in Turkey). They both wick pretty close to the same. $4 worth will last many years.

In their beading department they have 100% hemp string in different thicknesses. I tried that as well after boiling. Wicks well and more sturdy than cotton, but hemp gave the vapor a woodsy aftertaste. Not bad with tobaccos, but much prefer clean taste of cotton.
 
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