So the community seems to have many competing schools of thought on cleaning, maintenance, and revival of atomizer heads. I have a few Kanger T2s that I've rotated some heads through. I've been rinsing them with hot water and allowing to dry, but that isn't really taking care of the aftertaste. I started to get that burny, plasticy taste on one of them today and dropped it in some 91% isopropanol before giving it a rinse and letting it dry. Haven't yet tried it to see if it's better. I've some people say that they never let theirs get near water, just blot off the juice with a paper towel and call it good. And to dry burn or not to dry burn? I'm basically just experimenting now, but I'm wondering what some of ya'll's experiences/opinions are on these matters. I've also got some T3s on the way, so any thoughts on those would be welcome too.
Thoughts on head maintenance
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Make sure to give your heads a very solid rinse after the iso bath. Iso is a fine cleaner, but with anything I may inhale from it needs a touch of extra care. Iso fumes are no good.
With the stock VVN & CE5 heads I was nervous about dry burning because of fabric wick and being $2-3 a piece. But with my new setups I give a decent dry burn and it makes removing the build up very easy. A quick rinse under hot tap water and its good to go.
I see no problem with letting them get wet. I just wouldn't let them sit around damp for a long time, would probably get rust or something. After rinsing I dry immediately, lightly push some paper towel into the head to pseudo dry the coil then attach to the delivery system.
With the stock VVN & CE5 heads I was nervous about dry burning because of fabric wick and being $2-3 a piece. But with my new setups I give a decent dry burn and it makes removing the build up very easy. A quick rinse under hot tap water and its good to go.
I see no problem with letting them get wet. I just wouldn't let them sit around damp for a long time, would probably get rust or something. After rinsing I dry immediately, lightly push some paper towel into the head to pseudo dry the coil then attach to the delivery system.
I have the Kanger S1, which uses the same coil as the T2. My routine is to remove the rubber caps, toss the caps and coils in a cup and cover them with hot water, drop in a polident tablet, let soak for a few hours... then, rinse with plain water a couple of times, pat dry, do a dry burn, then soak again in plain water for a while, pat dry and put caps back on. I've only done it a couple of times, but the coils work like brand new after this treatment.
So you dry burn before running under water? The Kangers use silica wicks, yes? I seem to have scorched the fat wick in a couple of them, not badly. I probably did it when I really didn't know what I was doing. They seem to lighten back up with plain water rinse and some squeezing.
I've heard of others using denture cleaner. I'll have to pick some up. Thanks for the tip.
I'll dry burn and try to remove as much of the build up as I can with a tooth pick or something like that, as long as it won't scratch my SS mesh. Combination of those two removes a lot of gunk, but then its generally stuck in the head. Just rinse it all out and dry a bit. Then check my coil with a short burn or two.
Lots of people claim an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner (costs 25-30 bucks at amazon) filled with Vodka will do a great job of cleaning these things.
That being said, I seem to get a slightly burnt taste with clearomizers anyways. I think it has to do with the wicking agent being on the top, and me keeping the vape-stick vertical too long.
I'm not sure one can really get rid of that once it begins.
I am getting fantastic vapes with a DCT setup. If you might be up for trying something new, you may consider the DCT, Dual Cartomizer Tank. It works by surrounding a cartomizer with eliquid in a tank.
This tank is a locking DCT. This means there is a groove and a nut at the bottom of the tank to hold the cartomizer. There is no way it can pull out on you, which is one of the potential issues with tank set ups.
http://www.madvapes.com/artemas-locking-510-dct-clear.html
The cartos are replaceable, and will last a few weeks each. They cost 2-4$ each.
http://www.madvapes.com/smok-tech-30-ohm-steel-dual-coil-cartomizer.html
If you get one, keep in mind, there are two different sized tanks and two different sized Cartomizers. I personally use an XL tank. It holds about 6ml. I'm pretty sure it uses 44mm (I think) length Cartomizers.
However ask your vendor to match the cartomizer with the tank the first time to avoid any mismatch.
Here's a video on how to fill the tank: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4jOU-P5lNro&desktop_uri=/watch?v=4jOU-P5lNro
Though you can ignore the warning about the tank sliding off, if you buy the locking DCT.
Also, some vendors sell a tank fill tool that speed up filling. Get one
I've got a handful of new clearomizers I just can't bring myself to use now, because I'm no fan of the burnt silicon taste.
Good luck
That being said, I seem to get a slightly burnt taste with clearomizers anyways. I think it has to do with the wicking agent being on the top, and me keeping the vape-stick vertical too long.
I'm not sure one can really get rid of that once it begins.
I am getting fantastic vapes with a DCT setup. If you might be up for trying something new, you may consider the DCT, Dual Cartomizer Tank. It works by surrounding a cartomizer with eliquid in a tank.
This tank is a locking DCT. This means there is a groove and a nut at the bottom of the tank to hold the cartomizer. There is no way it can pull out on you, which is one of the potential issues with tank set ups.
http://www.madvapes.com/artemas-locking-510-dct-clear.html
The cartos are replaceable, and will last a few weeks each. They cost 2-4$ each.
http://www.madvapes.com/smok-tech-30-ohm-steel-dual-coil-cartomizer.html
If you get one, keep in mind, there are two different sized tanks and two different sized Cartomizers. I personally use an XL tank. It holds about 6ml. I'm pretty sure it uses 44mm (I think) length Cartomizers.
However ask your vendor to match the cartomizer with the tank the first time to avoid any mismatch.
Here's a video on how to fill the tank: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4jOU-P5lNro&desktop_uri=/watch?v=4jOU-P5lNro
Though you can ignore the warning about the tank sliding off, if you buy the locking DCT.
Also, some vendors sell a tank fill tool that speed up filling. Get one
I've got a handful of new clearomizers I just can't bring myself to use now, because I'm no fan of the burnt silicon taste.
Good luck
That actually helps clear a lot of things up. I'm just getting my feet when and have yet to demystify the murky world of tanks and cartos. I've dropped far too much money on my new habit this week. I'll probably wait until after the holidays to venture into that whole realm. I definitely know where to come for advice, though.
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