Time to get a new mod again

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Imfallen_Angel

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Apr 10, 2016
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Truthfully, I have no idea what happened to my Predator and Cuboid. Both were working just fine then out of nowhere both Gabe me the atomizer short error (months apart, not like it happened all on the same day lol). No clue as to why, I googled it found out some stuff about the 510 and the board and I guess it's pretty common with joyetech boards. Neither have very good venting, so that could be part of it. Maybe they just got too hot, idk. Either way, I tried a few recommended things to see if I could fix them and nothing worked. So they are currently sitting and looking pretty.
As for the eleaf, I've heard mixed reviews on Eleaf products which scares me a tad but I have the old Eleaf 30w and it still works fine. But the 100wTc wouldn't work for me, due to the fact my Icon is a 24mm and my Engine is a 25mm. Thanks for the useful review on it tho. I can always recommend it to someone else in the future.

Well, could just be a case of serious bad luck... every brand will have some lemons/faulty units. So far, the Predator has the 510 connection coming out that's the "big issues" but it appears that it was the first run/batch, as I've yet to hear it since it was mentioned by a few.

For Joytech/Wismec, the RX models are the ones that I stay clear as the number of complaints has been constant (but I absolutely don't like the look of it anyways).

For Eleaf, as the number that they sell is staggering due to their low pricing, there's bound to be a small number of defective units. But out of about a dozen Eleaf mods I've had, there's only one that had a product defect (that auto-fire thing) that started after 3 months.

But if you take just the Pico, probably one of the most popular mod (if not the most ever), the reports of issues are extremely rare.

Between most brands, I have a lot of trouble picking anything over Eleaf at this point. I think that many that enjoy their Eleaf mods are "shamed" about it so they don't talk about it much.. heck ever seen a DNA fan go on a rant? Now that's scary.

I just wonder of my process of elimination that you might consider what any single "cause" might be... were you using a particular tank at the time... the type of batteries you were using?

And the vent holes are only for if the batteries were to vent, so to release pressure and not have the mod turn into a pipe bomb.
 

Infamshxr

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Sep 17, 2015
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Maybe it was bad luck, but apparently the atomizer short problem is pretty common with them from what I was reading. It started happening after using a mix between my Engine, Cheetah, and Subtank. I only have two types of batteries. LG HG2 and LG HE4, nothing but good luck with them.
Yea, I see the Pico come up in conversation quite a bit. Personally, I have nothing against Eleaf. Like I said, I have the old istick 30w and it's about 2 or 3 years old. I keep it charged then turn it off and I went about 6+ months without touching it, turned it on, battery was still full and worked like a charm.
Yea, I've read some DNA users completely bash anything that's not DNA. Same can go for FSK users. I appreciate the quality of the chips, but doesn't mean everything else is crap. Seems like the ANT chip in Smoant devices are pretty solid for example.
As for vents, I thought they were for keeping the board and batteries cool so the device doesn't overheat. I noticed my Predator (when it worked) got quite a bit hotter than my RX 2/3 and don't really see much for vents on it. Which is why I thought that's what they were for.

I've been doing some reading, watching, etc and think I may have refined my list lol.
-Asmodus Minikin V2 (my current fav I think. Touch screen makes me a bit nervous though)
-Smoant Charon
-Yosta Livepor 160 (for a possible beater)
-Lost Vape Therion 166 (if there is a good reason to spend that much)
 

Imfallen_Angel

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Apr 10, 2016
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Do you charge the mods directly, or take the batteries out and charge in charger?

Personally, I just charge via the mods unless it's on the go (as I have spares always on the charger).

Lots of uneducated people rant about how terrible charging via the mod is, and it's not, it's an old notion that needs to die.

The reason I say all this is that you can fry a mod (and some did it with their chargers) by a bad slip of the battery and having a short happen. It happened to me once, the pin ripped the wrap, touched the gap of the positive/negative on top, the battery vented and fried the mod.

But a "lucky" short (where the battery doesn't vent, so hard to even notice it happened) might cause a board to die off.

If one of your tanks has a longer than "standard" 510 pin, that might result is wearing out/breaking the 510 connector.

You should check if anyone reported any of your tank to be such.

And it's a decent list.. I do enjoy my Therion (75), and as far as quality goes, it's excellent. I just found that setting it up to work correctly a huge pain as it wouldn't handle SS whatsoever out of the box, but it's still a decent mod.

btw, Eleaf does make a TC200W (three battery version that would handle any sized tank). I've been considering getting one just to have the full "TC" family, but I prefer the sleeker aspect of the TC100W (and the squeeze trigger that the TC200W doesn't have).
 

Infamshxr

Senior Member
Sep 17, 2015
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I always have two sets on the charger, one set in my pocket (in case) and a set in my mod. I rotate them every day to try not to over use or under use any particular set.

I don't think I ever had a short. I believe once my mod dropped and reset all my settings on me. Can't remember which one it was though lol.

My OBS stuff have pretty short 510s. The Subtank is definitely longer than most, but I'm pretty careful about screwing it down since I know it doesn't sit flush against my RX 2/3. It does sit flush on the Predator and Cuboid though.

I heard the new Therions are setup pretty nicely.

I think I'm gonna take a gander at what Eleaf has to offer, just to make things more difficult lol.
 

Imfallen_Angel

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The Subtank could be the guilty party.
I have the Wotofo Conqueror that's a longer than standard pin, and can't stand the wobbling and sticking "higher" thing, so what I've done is cut a piece to plumber's rubber sealing tape into a "washer" which fills that gap and prevents the tank from all these things, plus protects the mod against scratching from the tank. (this stuff (site provided only as reference for item): 1" x 16' Magic Wrap Tape)
 
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