Titan Joye 510 mod video

[Scamz]

sorry to double post but any help on getting the battery stripped would really be nice.

 

[kasparhall]

It's not easy. I think the brass conecter its just press fit but the tolerences are tight. I used a dremmel to open my battery. You could use metal snips and start from the led end and peel it back. It may be a pain in the ... though. When I did it i just wanted to see what was on the battery so I just cut it apart. You might try threading somthing into it and pulling it out that way. Wish I could help more. Maybe sombody else knows how to get into the battery an easier way?

 

[Lazarus]

Try cutting the battery unit about 1" down from the connector (just below the button on a manual but above the actual batt) with a tubing cutter (prefered) or hack saw. The use a tin snips to cut longitudinally up about half way. That should get you to just before the connector. Now you should use two needle nose pliers to peel apart the cylinder along the cut you just made. You will have to tear the last 1/2 of metal. Keep an eye on where the connector flys when you pull it apart....

 

[Scamz]

i really think with some tweaking this cartomizer mod could work vary well. but the first step is to make a cleaner looking mouthpiece. the next step is to find the ideal material to wick the bridge bit. i mean if it work well the 510 cartomizer mod would be the only Supermini that isn't, and lets face it, weak. ima do some testing tomorrow.

 

[Porphy]

I'm a direct dripper and any easy mod that keeps me from dealing with a cart would be really cool. The first thing I thought before reading replies was "this would be awesome for direct dripping if the bridge was exposed with the wicking material recessed on the outer edges."

 

[kasparhall]

I have done a bit more modification to the design. I am in agreement with porphy about having a strait shot to the bridge. I was kinda trying to do that originally by forming the tube of paper and packing it around the perimiter of the wick. When I would push in the connector it would smash down the paper tube and deform it. I took the connector to the grinder and removed almost a 1/4" of the sleeve that fit into the attomizer leaving behind just the textured press fit portion. I am now able to create a wider paper sleave that surrounds the wick. When I place the cap on it stays in the proper positon. I can now look into the atty and see the metal wick. The paper just acts as a reiviour to keep the metal wick soaked. This also seemed to help keep liquid from getting to my mouth I can fill it untill it gurgles and give it a good pull without problems. I think most of the fluid that was getting in my mouth was getting drawn up between the casing and the sleeve not the center hole. This seems to have fixed that problem.

Thanks for the feedback It has lead to a better performer!

 

[EldarKinSlayer]

How are you keeping from burning your lips? I am using a 901 cart with the part that holds the filler material cut away, just the lipped area goes in side the atty. Zero Danger of plastic burning, and my lips don't get burned off.

 

[wallawally]

I didnt do the mod, but i do have an idea to help with liquid getting in your mouth and the heat from the atty.

You could use the little rubber "condom" for a cartomizer to cover the end. they dont look very cool but it would give you something to chew on, an adjustable air flow (depending on the size of hole punched it it) and it would shield from some of the heat. if you would like a few let me know and i will send them to you.