to mech or not!!??!!??!?!?

[Worzel]

I really don't pay sub ohm too much mind. From what I read, it drains batteries FAST! Looks like a PITA, unless you have time on your hands to build coils, and we all know, coils like to puke out at the worst times! I wonder how much wick and juice sub ohm vaping goes through?
I hate to put down sub ohm vaping, but I prefer to leave it to the electricians.

When I quit smoking, I was smoking ultra lights, lights if I was feelin' frisky.
I never saw a Camel wide "chuck enough" smoke to fill a whole room in one drag.


Sent from my bird in a moist little package

 

[TheJohnG]

I say in hindsight, get the provari vaping good before jumping into a mech mod. Here's why. As most vapers it took me a while to figure out what I liked, I bought too many items that are now sitting in the vape junk box, including 3 mods.
A Kayfun coiled at around 1.5 ohms will give you a hell of a vape, and be good (tank) for work.
What do you have atop your Pro now? Let's get that one going first, save your money for a bit.
JG - Trying to be simple again.

 

[edyle]

hey ecf...going to ask for some opinions on this ,sorry if this has been asked or if i shouldnt be posting in this section......here goes....been vaping for 6-7 weeks now and have been loving it.....no im in love with it is really how i should word it >>>>AWESOME...heres my question cause im abit confused...i run a provari and love it,a friend of mine(who introduced me to ecig )came over and was running a mech mod and from the very first vape on the mech i fell in love with my adv all over again totally different and that warm to hot vape was devine...now this is the confused me talking...looking up safety of mech mods and i do have a knowledge of ohms law..im by far not an electrical wizard but do have a grasp on it.....but when i go looking for info it seems mech mods and sub ohming go together..can i not use a mech say .9 ohms and up or is the true beauty of mech mods .8 and lower keep hearing how unsafe that is but truthfully i love the warmer vape..if i could get some guidance here i would love to stop being confused....thanks all keep on vaping!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1: of course you can use a mech at any ohms
2: it's not the mech that uses 0.8 ohms, its the 0.8 ohms that current regulated mods cannot handle

It's not the mech that is important, it is the POWER.
A good mech designed for high power will also have very low losses in the contact points in order to get the most power out of the battery.

What battery was he using in the mech and what kind of battery was in your mod?
If you put a low power battery in a tube, you aren't going to get more power out of it than it's capable of

 

[sawtoothscream]

I really don't pay sub ohm too much mind. From what I read, it drains batteries FAST! Looks like a PITA, unless you have time on your hands to build coils, and we all know, coils like to puke out at the worst times! I wonder how much wick and juice sub ohm vaping goes through?
I hate to put down sub ohm vaping, but I prefer to leave it to the electricians.

When I quit smoking, I was smoking ultra lights, lights if I was feelin' frisky.
I never saw a Camel wide "chuck enough" smoke to fill a whole room in one drag.


Sent from my bird in a moist little package

my coils on my rebuilds get replaced once every month or two. not the same as a coil in a protank or something. I just swap teh cotton wick every week or two which takes seconds.

as for sub ohm building, its really easy. 6 wraps of 28 ga on a 5/32 drill bit is .7ohm and hits great. takes no time at all to build. as for battery life and juice life. my mech drains slower then my zmax with a 2.5ohm coil. also the protank will suck through a tank fast, I might use 20-30 drops a day in my dripper. the protank takes ALOT more then 30 drops to fill yet only seems to last a day or two when i use it.

For me the mech is better, but not for every one. Thinking about grabbing a hana clone if they prove to be nice. also you can get a mean hitting mod without sub ohm.

 

[PiWright42]

Very correct on most all points, Worzel.

I use a five wrap of 24ga wire, (Specs out to about .530ohms), so longevity is not an issue so far. I'm into my third week on the same build. Just re-wick with a cotton pole cat once every three to four days and good to go. An average cotton ball will easily provide more than eight wicks of that style.

I get about five hours of use on a 18650 bat with that build then I have to swap out. Bat will be down to about 3.6volts. That's two bats to get through a work day and a third before I go to bed. My four VTC4's are on a constant rotation.

The 30mil bottle of juice I keep in my shirt pocket used to last almost two weeks back in the days of non adjustable eGos. Now it lasts about two and a half days. No lying the juice use spiked hard! Still I mix my own juice so cost stays down.

Wrapping a 24ga macro coil is not too hard as the wire is easy to see and all the coils are in contact so you guide off the last pass. Still it takes about two minute to prep the coil itself, (which includes grabbing the spool and snipping what you want off it). The real pain is the RDA I'm using right now which makes installation a real bother. Mounting the coil to a Omega atty take a solid five more minutes, (does not include adjusting the position of the coil and mounting the wick which I wrap around the center post twice wich means I have to take time to pass under the positive lead of the coil). On something like the Zenith it would be less than four minutes for the complete build.

The advantages of the ProVari are battery life, discrete juice usage at high ohms and sheer simplicity of plug and play. A 1.8ohm HH357 atty would give me about nine hours of use on the ProVari, with about a solid month of use before it's coil would pop and the same 30mil bottle lasted me about a week.

 

[pfm069]

I say in hindsight, get the provari vaping good before jumping into a mech mod. Here's why. As most vapers it took me a while to figure out what I liked, I bought too many items that are now sitting in the vape junk box, including 3 mods.
A Kayfun coiled at around 1.5 ohms will give you a hell of a vape, and be good (tank) for work.
What do you have atop your Pro now? Let's get that one going first, save your money for a bit.
JG - Trying to be simple again.

right now i have a kayfun lite plus at 1.4 ohms second coil build in my life and so far pretty good!!!!

 

[PiWright42]

my coils on my rebuilds get replaced once every month or two. not the same as a coil in a protank or something. I just swap teh cotton wick every week or two which takes seconds.

as for sub ohm building, its really easy. 6 wraps of 28 ga on a 5/32 drill bit is .7ohm and hits great. takes no time at all to build. as for battery life and juice life. my mech drains slower then my zmax with a 2.5ohm coil. also the protank will suck through a tank fast, I might use 20-30 drops a day in my dripper. the protank takes ALOT more then 30 drops to fill yet only seems to last a day or two when i use it.

For me the mech is better, but not for every one. Thinking about grabbing a hana clone if they prove to be nice. also you can get a mean hitting mod without sub ohm.

Used to use .6mil flat wire which I twisted into round wire on a drill then did a micro coil with. Had to use it with a Kick2 set to 15watts to get the flavor I wanted but the bats lasted about nine hours and the juice use was real good.

Then I did the macro coil build and the flavor blew me away. Have not gone back to anything else since.

 

[pfm069]

1: of course you can use a mech at any ohms
2: it's not the mech that uses 0.8 ohms, its the 0.8 ohms that current regulated mods cannot handle

It's not the mech that is important, it is the POWER.
A good mech designed for high power will also have very low losses in the contact points in order to get the most power out of the battery.

What battery was he using in the mech and what kind of battery was in your mod?
If you put a low power battery in a tube, you aren't going to get more power out of it than it's capable of

to be honest i was more mesmerized by his shiny mech and the nice warm vape i was receiving to even think about what battery he was using(kid in a candy store syndrome...lol)..will ask him tommorrow when i see him and thanks for input!!!!

 

[D. Waterhouse]

I really don't pay sub ohm too much mind. From what I read, it drains batteries FAST! Looks like a PITA, unless you have time on your hands to build coils, and we all know, coils like to puke out at the worst times! I wonder how much wick and juice sub ohm vaping goes through?
I hate to put down sub ohm vaping, but I prefer to leave it to the electricians.

When I quit smoking, I was smoking ultra lights, lights if I was feelin' frisky.
I never saw a Camel wide "chuck enough" smoke to fill a whole room in one drag.


Sent from my bird in a moist little package

That's the trick, you don't have to go super sub-ohm. I have a dripper with a .8ohm coil that's going on 8 months with the same coil that I use with my darkest, most coil gunking liquids. Once a week or so I pull the cap off, pull the cotton wick out, dry burn the coil, and rewick. It takes 2-3 minutes and I get 8-10 wicks out of a small cotton ball.

Yes, I go through more juice and a battery lasts less than a full day but the favor is SOOOOO much better!

As for battery safety I use Sony US18650VTC4s. They have a 30 anp continuous discharge rating and I run my coils between .8 and .5 ohm for an amp drain of 5.25 to 8.4, plenty safe.

 

[Worzel]

I have an Itaste VTR that I use an Igo-w on, and a Kato Hammer clone (FT special) that I use an Aqua clone on. With the mechanicals, the big thing is voltage drop. You have to look at your connection. If it is fixed, some atties may not fit. If it is floating pin, it may get stuck, which was a huge problem with the Hammer clone I got. I got a King mod clone, and grabbed the button and 510 connection, which is silver plated adjustable, and my mod works great! I do single coils with cotton, can do it in under 10 minutes, and happier than a pig in slop.


Sent from my bird in a moist little package

 

[rawr]

Mechs are my only vape! They are sleek, small, powerful with kick and really cheap too, if you get a clone!

 

[fortytoo27]

You hear a lot of sub-ohm stuff with unregulated mechs because changing the coil resistance is the only way to change the vape, not because reg. ohm coils don't work.

For example a 1.8 ohm coil on a regulated device can deliver a stronger vape by boosting its voltage output to 6 or so volts... But a mech is maxed at 4.2 and only drops from there. That's why resistances are typically lower on an unregulated mech-- no voltage boost.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pfm069]

thanks to all who have responded..the cloud of confusion has pretty much lifted and i see what everyone is talking about and why...great to get opinions from every walk of life that way i can piece together and form my own...again much apreciated great community and vape on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Vaslovik]

This was nice to read, I was there, back last year when I started vaping. I never even bothered with regulated mods. I had about run the course with the clearos and eGo rigs, and one fine day I walked into the local vape shop I was going to then, and there... there in the case, was a gorgeous little mech, and it called out to me the way mechs will do when they really like you "Buy me! Buy meeeee! You know you want meee!!!" Oh gosh, I really really did, and I bought it, and some batteries, and a charger, and then I stuck my Protank on it and proceeded to burn my way through dozens of 1.8 ohm coils. Hmmmm....

This was not cutting it. Rewinding Protank coils 10 at a time got old pretty quick, and I knew it was RBA time. So I got an RBA, an ohms meter, a battery checker, and a better charger, a spool of kanthal, a couple square yards of mesh, along with 8 big red 18650 AW IMR 2000 mAh batteries, and I was finally happy with my vape.

Not long after that I started making my own juice, and now I need nothing at all from the B&M's, so hey, go get yourself a mech, only good can come of it

 

[Cman1337]

I use a Stainless Steel Quasar by Cosmic Innovations, and a simple HCigar Sentinel M16 clone. I use Sony 3.7 volt (2600 mAh), 24 guage wire with six wraps and I it comes out to 0.19 ohms. Since the Quasar RDA has huge vent holes I am able to take the heavy hit. Which at a full battery its 4.2 volts (which comes out to hitting at ~95 watts) But I never worry about the battery venting or blowing up or having a short. I think it has a lot to do on the quality of your Atomizer. I personally think anything above 0.400 ohms is way too light of a hit, you would need to have small holes in your drip cap or take a 3 or 4 second drag to get a good bodied hit.

 

[balis0ng]

just like you, my first mod was a provari. I sticked with the provari for lets say 6 months before grabbing my first full mech. although, every once in a while, I still use my provaris (I have two rn), I am using a full mech as my daily set up.

what I liked about a full mech is that it's more versatile when it comes to ohms, you can go as low as 0.3 as long as you have those sony VTC 4 or 5. unlike the provari, it requires a weekly maintenance, and by maintenance I mean you have to clean the threads and contact pins. so yeah, it depends on whichever is convenient for you. if you want ohm versatility, get a mech. you get to create your coils (which is fun, really)

 

[Kimberultra2]

As a beginner myself, I bought a smoktech magneto and an igo w rda. Bought the batteries and charger and wire and wick. I love it. My first coil was using the directions and supplied wick/wore that came with the igo. It was in the 2.4 ohms range. I made a second one and got it down to 2 ohms. I ordered some 28 ga and now I'm right around 1.1 ohms and it's a great vape. 1.1 on my third coil ever isn't bad. It's low enough for good vapor and flavor and I'm only running like 3.3 amps on my efest 10A 18650's.

It's intimidating at first but not as bad as I thought. Definitely give it a try.


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[Completely Average]

I've used nothing but a mech for the past 6 months. I much prefer a mech with a Kick to a VV/VW mod for the size and reliability of the device.

However, right now I would buy a DNA30 based mod. The DNA30 does 99.9% of what I want to do vaping, and the .1% that it doesn't do is just silly showing off subohming to make the kids marvel at the size of the clouds I can create. But for normal, day to day use with retail toppers, RTAs, and RDAs, a DNA30 device is all most users will ever need.

 

[TheAmazingDave]

You do not need to sub-ohm to enjoy a mech. A 1.2-1.4Ω build on a mech will match the max power of your ProVari.

The deal with mechs is that not only do they have no regulation, you need to use a coil or build your own to control the desired power output. And with the lack of regulation comes the ability to run very high power.

Coming from what I was smoking, I couldn't get satisfactory lung fill or vapor production at the 15 watt max of my APV. I have a VTR which will fire sub-ohms on the higher end, but still with only a max of 15 watts, it just wasn't what I was looking for. It has a 5 amp limit which allows me to fire a .6Ω build at 15 watts, but on my mech that same build would run ~25 watts.

However, I know a couple of people that would be quite happy with a 10 watt 1.5 ohm build on a mech.

 

[tj99959]

I started using mechanical mods long before there were such things as RDA's or sub ohm vaping. I doubt there is a type of topper that I haven't used on a mechanical. That one of the reasons I like them, you can use about anything you want on a mechanical ... all you need to do is learn how.

My ADV is a 2.2 ohm build in an A7, so I'm really-really stressing these 16 amp 18490's (1.7 amp load)