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Beamslider

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I think that if 2 different mods read them at .07 that it is .07. Not much chance of 2 mods being off that much.

Try the atty with a built coil of just straight awg wire not clapton and see if you get a reading with the atty close to what steamengine says it should be. Remember with 2 coils you have to divide the ohms in half.
 

Izan

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and just to add up im using a peerless atty. And a Baal v4 atty. Tried to read it with my snowwolf and it has the same reading of .07 ohms. Im pretty confident I've mounted it properly. The bad thing is my coil master ohms meter burned out. What would you suggest? Just build my own coil?

So you have Mystery coils from a stranger... Okay.
5 wraps parallel at 3mm ID Kanthal 24AWG claptons as a SINGLE coil. (only mounted on one side) should put you at the amp limit of your battery. ~.25Ω.
If you mount TWO coils (dual- one per side) you halve that resistance into the .1Ω range...WAY TOO LOW FOR A MECH AND THAT BATTERY.

You don't know what you DO NOT know.
Put the mech away and use the new toy on a regulated device designed to fire below .2Ω.
Be much safer, please.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

Cheers
I

TLDR: .07Ω is accurate... Do NOT use it on a mech.
 
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Aceramos

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Oct 13, 2017
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One other question, can you take a picture of the reading on the screen of one of the mods. Are you sure you are not reading 0.7 as .07?
hold on im trying to get a picture where you can see it. It's quite
One other question, can you take a picture of the reading on the screen of one of the mods. Are you sure you are not reading 0.7 as .07?
sure hold on, its quite small
 

Aceramos

Full Member
Oct 13, 2017
13
8
30
So you have Mystery coils from a stranger... Okay.
5 wraps parallel at 3mm ID Kanthal 24AWG claptons as a SINGLE coil. (only mounted on one side) should put you at the amp limit of your battery. ~.25Ω.
If you mount TWO coils (dual- one per side) you halve that resistance into the .01Ω range...WAY TOO LOW FOR A MECH AND THAT BATTERY.

You don't know what you DO NOT know.
Put the mech away and use the new toy on a regulated device designed to fire below .2Ω.
Be much safer, please.
http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

Cheers
I

TLDR: .07Ω is accurate... Do NOT use it on a mech.
that
One other question, can you take a picture of the reading on the screen of one of the mods. Are you sure you are not reading 0.7 as .07?
here it is
 

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IMFire3605

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Im using a parallel clapto 24awg with 5 wraps 3mm inner diameter. I'm new to full mech mods. I've done my research with ohms volts and amps calculation. I'm just worried if im doing it properly. I know that the vtc4 has a max amp of 30 and it is better to go for 80% of the 30 amps. Is really possible to get a .07 ohms for a parellel clapton 24awg 5 wraps with 3mm inner diameter?

The VTC4 is "NOT" a max 30amp battery, it can be pulsed that high yes, but it's "Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) maximum" is 23amps. So build accordingly to those 23amps not the 30amps. 24awg core claptons in parallel at 5wraps on a 3mm, knowing just standard 24awg kanthal A1 wire in parallel on that 3mm at 5wraps would be pushing closer to 0.10ohms, not 0.70ohms, I believe that 0.07 reading is right in the more accurate reading. I'd suggest shedding a wire on each coil, just 2 single strands of that clapton wire to boost up your Ohms, and add 2 more wraps to each coil, that should push you over 0.20 ohms into the 0.25 to 0.30ohm range. Never build on a single battery mech below 0.25ohms, even with 30amp batteries, this gives safety head room, and, padding as those batteries age, their CDR will decrease over time as well due to loss of Mah, so always build to a maximum of 50% the CDR your batteries can handle (20amp batteries that would be 10amps, 30amp batteries that would be about 15amps) to account for this aging over time as well.

/edit
Follow up, similar topic, but a lot of this was discussed here as well, worth perusing over for your own question here
Advice for a new mech tube user
 

Aceramos

Full Member
Oct 13, 2017
13
8
30
The VTC4 is "NOT" a max 30amp battery, it can be pulsed that high yes, but it's "Continuous Discharge Rate (CDR) maximum" is 23amps. So build accordingly to those 23amps not the 30amps. 24awg core claptons in parallel at 5wraps on a 3mm, knowing just standard 24awg kanthal A1 wire in parallel on that 3mm at 5wraps would be pushing closer to 0.10ohms, not 0.70ohms, I believe that 0.07 reading is right in the more accurate reading. I'd suggest shedding a wire on each coil, just 2 single strands of that clapton wire to boost up your Ohms, and add 2 more wraps to each coil, that should push you over 0.20 ohms into the 0.25 to 0.30ohm range. Never build on a single battery mech below 0.25ohms, even with 30amp batteries, this gives safety head room, and, padding as those batteries age, their CDR will decrease over time as well due to loss of Mah, so always build to a maximum of 50% the CDR your batteries can handle (20amp batteries that would be 10amps, 30amp batteries that would be about 15amps) to account for this aging over time as well.

/edit
Follow up, similar topic, but a lot of this was discussed here as well, worth perusing over for your own question here
Advice for a new mech tube user
thanks I appreciate it
 

BrotherBob

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Dec 24, 2014
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Hi guys, im to the full mech mods. Im using vtc4 batt for my mod and running .7 ohms. I just want to ask because on my ohms reading it is .07 ohms. Is it really .07 or .7 ohms?
Welcome and glad you joined.
Might like to read:
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suprtrkr

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I will welcome you to the board, and I will also caution you to put the mech aside until you can replace your ohmmeter. Depending on the meter in a mod or mods is not a good idea. They are notoriously inaccurate and inconsistent. Get a 521 tab if you can, but even a 5 dollar eBay special is better than nothing. Never put a coil on a mech without measuring it on a good ohmmeter. Never. And make certain to measure it not only on the deck, but also with the RTA/RDA/RDTA assembled as well. Coils can ground out on the barrel/top cap.
 

VictorViper

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Something I haven't seen mentioned yet is that claptons and other complex wires often have significant shorts within the wraps themselves. I frequently get readings around 0.13 when first working in a Clapton or alien, but once the coils get worked out, they always ohm out as expected. Based on what I've read so far I'm suspicious that the coils weren't properly worked in.

The OP definitely needs to slow his roll a little and get a better understanding of wrapping. Installing two identical coils and expecting a different result in resistance shows a knowledge gap.

Great links posted already, and as usual, to the OP, keep posting questions as you read about coil building. Plain wire to start is highly suggested.
 
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