Tobeco Kayfun 4 opinions

[cocacola31173]

I have a chance to get one for a good price and was wondering if they are any good? I have always used the kayfun lite plus by Ehpro but never tried the K4 style.

Is building on it similar to the kayfun lite? I just want to get something with a glass tank and didn't have any luck with the Lemo.

Thanks!

 

[Marc411]

I have a couple and they are pretty well machined and produce great flavor. They do like to drink the juice!

Building them is real close to the older Kayfun's.

The Tobeco and the EHPRO are the only one's left in my rotation. Pick up some extra O-rings, that was the only thing I swapped out on the Tobeco.

 

[roxynoodle]

My Tobeco has been excellent so far. I haven't had to change any o rings.

My FT clone I changed everything on, lol! O rings, 510 pin, counternut. It does work now though.

 

[Marc411]

My Tobeco has been excellent so far. I haven't had to change any o rings.

My FT clone I changed everything on, lol! O rings, 510 pin, counternut. It does work now though.

LOL.... those ended up being crap. I use mine for parts now, well the decent parts anyway.

 

[HDMontana]

I've had 3 Tobeco V4's for a couple of months now. All work great and are still running all original parts ( except for one that I installed a 4s kit in for a little better airflow with my ni200 coils ).

HD

 

[roxynoodle]

LOL.... those ended up being crap. I use mine for parts now, well the decent parts anyway.

Seeing as it was a generous gift from a friend, I felt obligated to fix it

 

[DaveP]

One thing (among others) that I really like about the K4 is that you can flip the atomizer upside down and unscrew the coil assembly and replace the wick without removing any other parts. That makes me replace the wick more often when I do a juice fill.

The coil sits right above the top of the assembly. You can remove the wick with the chimney on and install a new one and screw the assembly back onto the bottom of the tank. While you have it apart you can fill the tank from the bottom with an 18ga needle on a bottle or syringe. The entire operation is quick and easy.

To get a K3 completely full, you have to use the juice port on the bottom of the atomizer. Taking the screw in and out is kind of a pain. Top fill leaves a large bubble, which is not a bad thing, but you can get more in with a bottom fill and still have a bubble large enough to allow proper juice feed.

Between the two, the K4 is a better choice, IMO. K3 is good, but the K4 edges it out.

 

[doofy666]

While you have it apart you can fill the tank from the bottom with an 18ga needle on a bottle or syringe

Excellent - thx. I always bottom fill one of my K4s. An 18ga doesn't fit through the holes, but your post made me try again. Resting the needle on top of the hole and it fills easy. I'd bought a 14ga, which fits through the hole but refused to suck up 50/50 juice.

 

[DaveP]

Excellent - thx. I always bottom fill one of my K4s. An 18ga doesn't fit through the holes, but your post made me try again. Resting the needle on top of the hole and it fills easy. I'd bought a 14ga, which fits through the hole but refused to suck up 50/50 juice.

The one I use is an 18ga (pink color) and it fits nicely on the K4. When you see a little juice coming out of the other holes, the K4 is full. I don't use the top fill method because you have to close the juice feed to prevent leakage.

On the K3 I flip it upside down and fill through the side screw fill hole and the 18ga needle fits, but you have to work it around a little until it drops into the hole past where the screw threads stop. I also fill sometimes by removing the top cap and filling through there. Holding a finger over one air hole on the K3 is much easier than blocking 4 holes on the K4.

 

[doofy666]

The one I use is an 18ga (pink color) and it fits nicely on the K4. When you see a little juice coming out of the other holes, the K4 is full. I don't use the top fill method because you have to close the juice feed to prevent leakage.

Here, a 18ga doesn't fit in the hole, but fits nicely on the hole. I only use it on a tank I've fitted to a goblin base. I reckon that a K4 that is "full" is overfilled - in the case of the goblin that means it leaks out the drip tip, in the case of a K4 vacuum suffers.

Ordinarily I top fill cos it's easier - why you no like the jc method?

 

[DaveP]

Here, a 18ga doesn't fit in the hole, but fits nicely on the hole. I only use it on a tank I've fitted to a goblin base. I reckon that a K4 that is "full" is overfilled - in the case of the goblin that means it leaks out the drip tip, in the case of a K4 vacuum suffers.

Ordinarily I top fill cos it's easier - why you no like the jc method?

Closing the juice control ring and re-opening it after filling is laborious to me. Mine sticks and requires an Allen wrench to open. I tend to change the wick so often that it's just easier to flip the K4 upside down, unscrew the coil deck assembly, and fill through the ring of holes around the chimney. While it's out I can do a dry burn and replace the wick. I find that much easier than closing the juice control ring and re-opening it, and more productive since I can look at the coil and wick and decide when to service those parts.

 

[doofy666]

Closing the juice control ring and re-opening it after filling is laborious to me. Mine sticks and requires an Allen wrench to open.

It shouldn't do. JC should be very easy by hand.

If you are happy bottom filling, fair enough, but if you want JC functionality try lubing #4 with olive oil, and a light lube of chapstick on #16.

If the above doesn't work then you most likely have a machining error that replacing #8 ought to resolve.

 

[DaveP]

It shouldn't do. JC should be very easy by hand.

If you are happy bottom filling, fair enough, but if you want JC functionality try lubing #4 with olive oil, and a light lube of chapstick on #16.

If the above doesn't work then you most likely have a machining error that replacing #8 ought to resolve.

If I loosen the center contact screw I can rotate the JC ring, but I haven't done that enough to polish the threads and make it really easy. It's convenient for me to remove the build deck, since I replace the wick and dry burn about once a day while filling. That keeps everything tasting new and flavorful.

 

[Monotremata]

I ended up buying 3 Tobecos if that tells ya anything.. Although Ive got one that wont come apart now all of a sudden. My blue one and one of my SS ones has the glass tank setup. My other SS one had the Makro tank on it, but its prone to leaking so I decided to break the whole thing down a couple days ago and set it up with the all steel tank on it. Now for whatever reason I cant turn the juice control or even get the deck off of it to change out the wick and coil.. Probably my fault though, its been rock solid up until that point hehe. Im hesitant to take pliers to it just yet, I did that when I got the first SS one cause it was too tight and gouged up parts of the AFC ring so Im trying to keep it nice and pretty..

 

[DaveP]

I ended up buying 3 Tobecos if that tells ya anything.. Although Ive got one that wont come apart now all of a sudden. My blue one and one of my SS ones has the glass tank setup. My other SS one had the Makro tank on it, but its prone to leaking so I decided to break the whole thing down a couple days ago and set it up with the all steel tank on it. Now for whatever reason I cant turn the juice control or even get the deck off of it to change out the wick and coil.. Probably my fault though, its been rock solid up until that point hehe. Im hesitant to take pliers to it just yet, I did that when I got the first SS one cause it was too tight and gouged up parts of the AFC ring so Im trying to keep it nice and pretty..

Duct tape strips on the parts you need to break loose usually provides enough grip to make them move. Once you have them apart, a little juice in the threads keeps them moving. I've been looking for one of those rubber sheet squares that used to be sold to remove jar lids. Apparently in the days of heat sealed food packages no one needs a jar opener anymore. I haven't found one.

 

[Monotremata]

Duct tape strips on the parts you need to break loose usually provides enough grip to make them move. Once you have them apart, a little juice in the threads keeps them moving. I've been looking for one of those rubber sheet squares that used to be sold to remove jar lids. Apparently in the days of heat sealed food packages no one needs a jar opener anymore. I haven't found one.

Ooooh thats a great idea!! I KNOW theres duct tape in this house somewhere!!!

 

[cocacola31173]

Duct tape strips on the parts you need to break loose usually provides enough grip to make them move. Once you have them apart, a little juice in the threads keeps them moving. I've been looking for one of those rubber sheet squares that used to be sold to remove jar lids. Apparently in the days of heat sealed food packages no one needs a jar opener anymore. I haven't found one.

I found one at the Dollar Tree...Perfect for Kayfuns!

 

[DaveP]

I found one at the Dollar Tree...Perfect for Kayfuns!

Interesting! I was in Dollar Tree yesterday and didn't find one. When I asked the manager, she remembered using them but said they weren't in their stock list and she hadn't seen one in the store.

 

[Troy Noh]

I've had my Kayfun V4 from Tobeco a few days, other then some user error with the JC, she's a dream

 

[DaveP]

I"m still waiting for the rebuild kit I ordered after a silicone seal went down the drain while I was washing out my Tobeco K4 in the sink. In the meantime, I'm back to the K3 (and using slightly less juice per day).