Top hot spot.

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UncHellMatt

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Feb 28, 2013
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Evening folks. Wonder if anyone here could offer some advice.

Received my first rba the other day, a DID clone from High Desert Vapes. Watched the video on the site about setting it up for the first time (it's toward the bottom) and followed the guy's instructions to a T, however I ran into a few problems.

First, the Ω level was perfect (about 1.8), but I noticed it getting VERY bright red at the top, toward the post. Did a lot of reading up on hot spots, adjusted the coils a little, checked the resistance... 1.0. Tweak the coils, it's back up, give it a quick tap (I had added a little juice to the coils as the gentleman in the video suggests) but saw the same thing; Very bright red at the top.

I went back and forth, trying to get the wires either closer or farther, check the resistance and looks good, about 1.7. Hit the button on my Vamo and POOF! That hot spot breaks.

Rolled up my sleeves and said "Oh it's Ωn!" Might as well take the opportunity to learn.

Well, I'm nearing the end of the small amount of 32g Kanthal I bought (yeah yeah, I was a little optimistic I'd get it right the first try), and still no luck. I think I've re-wrapped three times and figure it's time to talk to people with more experience. Twice, same spot, that final bit of wire heading to the top post, gets very hot and breaks. Anyone have a suggestion on where to begin troubleshooting? I've tried to coil the wire more loosely, however my understanding is that the coils, of course, need to be in contact with the wick (steel mesh, btw, which came with the DID clone. I've Google "hot spots", however the coils haven't had an opportunity to even get red before that top most bit of wire snapped.
 

vapdivrr

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Evening folks. Wonder if anyone here could offer some advice.

Received my first RBA the other day, a DID clone from High Desert Vapes. Watched the video on the site about setting it up for the first time (it's toward the bottom) and followed the guy's instructions to a T, however I ran into a few problems.

First, the Ω level was perfect (about 1.8), but I noticed it getting VERY bright red at the top, toward the post. Did a lot of reading up on hot spots, adjusted the coils a little, checked the resistance... 1.0. Tweak the coils, it's back up, give it a quick tap (I had added a little juice to the coils as the gentleman in the video suggests) but saw the same thing; Very bright red at the top.

I went back and forth, trying to get the wires either closer or farther, check the resistance and looks good, about 1.7. Hit the button on my Vamo and POOF! That hot spot breaks.

Rolled up my sleeves and said "Oh it's Ωn!" Might as well take the opportunity to learn.

Well, I'm nearing the end of the small amount of 32g Kanthal I bought (yeah yeah, I was a little optimistic I'd get it right the first try), and still no luck. I think I've re-wrapped three times and figure it's time to talk to people with more experience. Twice, same spot, that final bit of wire heading to the top post, gets very hot and breaks. Anyone have a suggestion on where to begin troubleshooting? I've tried to coil the wire more loosely, however my understanding is that the coils, of course, need to be in contact with the wick (steel mesh, btw, which came with the DID clone. I've Google "hot spots", however the coils haven't had an opportunity to even get red before that top most bit of wire snapped.

it is not only the tightness or loosness of the top coil that produces the glow, its also the tension on the top wire. most times this hot spot on the very top is created because to much tension is applied to the wick. as you tighten up the top nuts this inturns brings the wick over towards the positive post, this is to much tension. also if you have wrapped the connection around the positive post in the other direction, so as you tighten up the top nut, this inturns loosens the tension. i do reccomend wrapping the wire around the pp in the opposite direction then the wrap of the wick. when tightening the top nut, just tighten it up just a little so it doesnt bring the wick over, then you can tighten the second nut up to complete the connection. use both nuts when making the connection for best results. jumping resistances are mostly fron a loose nut connection. use a small pliers or hemostates to tighten the nuts.
 

SteveW

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Hi Matt. You are getting a short on the wick at the top because the wire is too tight at that point. It is cutting into the wick and disturbing the oxidation layer. Distance between the wick and the post is not causing the problem although many mistakenly believe this is an issue. Often this problem occurs when people tighten up the nut on the top post and it pulls on the wire, creating enough tension to expose the mesh. Make sure this is not happening and you should be fine.

Here is another thread on the issue you may find informative:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/399367-zap-what-heck-going.html
 

GuataLOOP

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Apr 1, 2013
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San Diego, CA, USA
You have to ease the coils in and develop a layer of carbon below them. After wrapping the coils set your vv device to 3.0v and pulse the coils gently, keep doing this several times. After that up the voltage to about 3.5v and continue, again gently and try to tweak the coils to even the current. Move the mesh up and down, spin it in the coils, pull the coils together or further apart. Once you notice them kind of evenly glowing, continue to increase the voltage in small increments. ( again this almost never happens first try, regardless how good the coil or how much you oxidize the mesh )

This process for me takes far longer than rolling the wick and wrapping the coils. Generally the other coils will not turn red if there is a hotspot or at least not before you pop it. Patience and be gentle with firing it.

My coils are generally pretty tight but not so tight that I cannot spin the mesh if I have to, but they hold them in there. Another thing you could try is if, after all that, you still have a hotspot try and pull that specific spot off the wick and see if it helps. Alternatively you could just push the wick in the opposite direction of the hotspot, so away from it.

Hope this helps.

Edit: My hotspots always occur at the top coil or the distance between positive post and the coils. At least that's all I've ever seen.
 

UncHellMatt

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Alright, buggerit... Time for beer.

I tried as you suggested, vapdivrr, with my last bit of wire. Still looked hot, so I'm going to bag it for the evening. I appreciate the advice, everyone.

Anyone know if this sort of wire is something you can pick up in a craft/hardware store, or is it pretty much just Amazon and vape supply places on line?
 

vapdivrr

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i have always had to order mine. e-bay. noticed that you use 32g wire. this wire imo is to thin, although it is not creating you problem, a thicker wire will help you sort out this problem without popping the wire. 30g wire is just a better all around wire for gennys. once you have a thicker wire on your wick you will have more time to work out your hot spots. most everyone gets these hot spots and for the most part you have to do some nudging and prodding of the coils to work out these issues, with 32g wire it will just pop, with a thicker wire it will give you much more time to try to eliminate the hot spot. 30g will also produce a better flavor and is more stable on the wick. the only thing is the 30g will reduce your resistance, but this is a good thing in genesis atomizers. with the 30g a resistance of about 1.4 to 1.6 is perfect.
 

UncHellMatt

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Feb 28, 2013
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Success!

After having given up for the night, I'd stopped by my local vape shop for a few supplies and got to chatting with the gentleman who owns the business (Eastern Vapors in MA) and we got to talking about rebuildables. He gave me some of his wire, not sure of the gauge but it was thicker than the 32g I'd been using. After tweaking a few hot spots (and seeing my ohms go up to 9.8...) I got it down to 2.1Ω, and no hot spots! Wrapped as you suggested, vapdivrr, making sure that the top bit of wire wasn't getting pulled as I seated the top screw.

Now it's just getting it "broken in".

I appreciate everyone's advice. Thanks again.
 

Joe944

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Awesome job! When I first got mine I went through several meters of wire ferociously building coils over and over. Tried about 5 different wicks. Top coil popped every single time... Then all of a sudden everything just clicked and I was able to build several good coils in a row...

Some of us take a bit longer to learn. :D
 

beanpusher

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Maybe the lead from wick to top post is too tight. Use a small screwdriver or similar to put a 'kink' in the lead before you tighten down the post.


i do the kink thing on the bottom coil and the top coil right where the wire leaves the the mesh to the top post and it keeps the heat only on the coils. try getting some 30awg, you will have to put an additional wrap on it but the wire is alot more sturdy onder load.

or try moving coils around while its powered. you can get wire for real cheap on ebay from temco industrial supply, i just ordered 100' of 30awg for $4.50 under $8 shipped.
 

vapdivrr

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Yeah, I went through about a yard last night >_<

Going to have to buy a bit more so next month I can have another try.

it does take time to get proficient in builds for different attys, they all have there own quirks. when you do order some wire I would give the 30g a try, it is nice to have a couple of different gauges to play around with, and for under 10 bucks you might as well save on the shipping and just order both the 32 & 30. in time I would bet that the 32g will not get used as much as the 30. did you mention what mod you are using? most rebuildable users in time will have both a vv device and mechanical device. they both have there places in genesis vaping. if you ever decide to purchase a mechanical mod then the 28g wire is king. good luck buddy
 
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