Decided to flirt with rebuilding since ive been vaping a while and it looks like there are some huge benefits from it. Yesterday i removed the premade ssocc from my toptank and put the rba section in. I immediately noticed that the atomizer all of sudden was difficult to screw into my mod and when i got it all the way down it still didnt sit flush as it did before when the stock coils had been in there. So i tried another toptank rba deck same think. I tried another toptank base, again thing. I even used a couple different mods and the samenthing is happening. Not sure what to think but ive ruled out the threading on my mods and my attys so it has to have something to do with the deck being in there. Ps. I put stock coils back in and tanks screw in and out normally again. Anyone else dealt with this before?
Toptank rba question
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RBA probably just pushed the tanks 510 pin out a bit. @Beamslider might have another idea or suggestion.
I just checked mine and they all sit flush. Wish I could help you. Hope you find a solution.
That is strange. I don't think I have had that happen......maybe try reinserting the rba and double checking that it is screwed down as far as it can be in the base. That's about all I got....sry
On the Sub/TopTank Mini, the Coil-Head or the RBA Section, holds down the Atomizer's 510 Pin. And keeps it from being pushed back Up into the Atomizer Base when you screw the Atomizer onto a Mod.
If there is No Gap between the Atomizer Base and your Mod when you use a Coil Head, but there is a Gap when you use the RBA Section, that would tell me that the RBA Section is pushing the Atomizer's 510 Pin down Farther than the Coil Head is.
And you should be able to look at the Atomizer's 510 Connection and see that the 510 Pin protrudes farther out of Atomizer with the RBA Section than with the Coil Head.
I would Check to see if all the O-Rings on the RBA Section are in place and are in Good Condition. There should be Two O-Rings like you see in this Photo...
Also, make sure that the End Cap of the RBA Section that goes into the Atomizer Base is Screwed into the RBA Section snug.
If there is No Gap between the Atomizer Base and your Mod when you use a Coil Head, but there is a Gap when you use the RBA Section, that would tell me that the RBA Section is pushing the Atomizer's 510 Pin down Farther than the Coil Head is.
And you should be able to look at the Atomizer's 510 Connection and see that the 510 Pin protrudes farther out of Atomizer with the RBA Section than with the Coil Head.
I would Check to see if all the O-Rings on the RBA Section are in place and are in Good Condition. There should be Two O-Rings like you see in this Photo...
Also, make sure that the End Cap of the RBA Section that goes into the Atomizer Base is Screwed into the RBA Section snug.
There are some tops to the rba's that do not fit properly. These are usually the clone rba heads and the inner diameter it a touch too small for the chimney to enter the very top of the rba.
But you can generally get them to work.
But you can generally get them to work.
Is it a clone RBA section? As stated some are too short or too long. I would stick with genuine RBA as the price difference isn't that great. Do you have another rba to try?
Fast tech has genuine ones that work.
$5.30 Authentic KangerTech SUBTANK Mini RBA Plus Coil Head - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Fast tech has genuine ones that work.
$5.30 Authentic KangerTech SUBTANK Mini RBA Plus Coil Head - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I have somewhere around 8 genuine toptanks and around 6 clone tanks. I also tried some of the clone RBA with them back when I wanted the larger hole because I thought it made some kind of difference over the small hole version. What I found is that some of the clone rba sections were ok some were not so good, it was a crap shoot when buying them and not worth the trouble. None of them caused the tank to be difficult to screw in but some of them did cause it to not sit flush as it pushed the pin too far. I ended up replacing them all with genuine rba and none of them caused that issue.
I got the clone tanks because they were cheap. I had good luck with clone tanks as they all worked fine and were hard to tell the difference from genuine ones other than the lack of Kangertech etched on the them. I did end up getting genuine bases to replace the base on them as I preferred the newer short base from Kanger. All of the clone tanks with kanger bases and rba work as well and as the genuine Kanger tank.
These were the clones tanks that were very good quality. They no longer carry them though. They were $9 and the genuine bases were $5 and genuine rba $5. A total of $19. Worth it back when the Toptank was $30 or more.
$8.48 Toptank Mini Styled Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer - 4ml / 0.15ohm / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I got the clone tanks because they were cheap. I had good luck with clone tanks as they all worked fine and were hard to tell the difference from genuine ones other than the lack of Kangertech etched on the them. I did end up getting genuine bases to replace the base on them as I preferred the newer short base from Kanger. All of the clone tanks with kanger bases and rba work as well and as the genuine Kanger tank.
These were the clones tanks that were very good quality. They no longer carry them though. They were $9 and the genuine bases were $5 and genuine rba $5. A total of $19. Worth it back when the Toptank was $30 or more.
$8.48 Toptank Mini Styled Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer - 4ml / 0.15ohm / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Get a small screwdriver that will fit thru the small holes at the very bottom of the rba and turn clockwise. Sounds like it may have backed off a little
An 18 gauge needle works also. Just remember to grab both sides of the needle(blunt) when turning so the needle does not break. Should not need much, a half or whole turn should do the job.
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