Touching back on single cell mech builds..
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I pretty much only use single coil mechs nowadays...my daily driver build is 6 wraps of 29 gauge kanthal with a 2mm ID. 1.2ish ohms. that's in a smaller rda without a lot of airflow.
when I want to fog up a room, I use a parallel coil, 26 gauge SS, 4 wraps, 3mm ID. comes to .4ish ohms. dense, warm clouds with almost no ramp up time.
building on a mech takes some time to figure out....and each atty that you use will have a different "sweet spot". good luck and have fun!
when I want to fog up a room, I use a parallel coil, 26 gauge SS, 4 wraps, 3mm ID. comes to .4ish ohms. dense, warm clouds with almost no ramp up time.
building on a mech takes some time to figure out....and each atty that you use will have a different "sweet spot". good luck and have fun!
That clone of the Kayfun 5 I grabbed kinda works like that except I have been putting it on a tube mod that gives a constant 4.2 Volts. I have a single coil on it and I think I have it at about 1.25 Ohms. It's really nice for mimicking a cig and the flavor is really strong. I need to figure out the best way to get a coil to about 2 Ohms for my Big Buddha though. I actually do have it on a mech mod and I think 0.90-ish is what I want. But it's a great two coil deck. I could just shut one down and do single coil, but it really shines with two. I have a bunch of 26 gauge wire laying around. Blah. I also have one that is labelled "28gaX3." Says it is twisted and looks like three wires spun together. Am I right in thinking that it's going to have a lower resistance than my 26 gauge?
Uhh I'm not totally sure. Are they the same kind of wire? Twisting and parralel give more surface area without crazy high resistance.
Yeah it appears to be three strands of Kanthal braided together. It's labelled "Kanthal A1 28ga X3 Twisted."
I like doing 1.5mm twisted micro coils with the dragon style whicking
Thanks. I grabbed a box of various wires to play with and I've just barely gotten into them. It was something like $15 for six different spools. I'm going through them very slowly and only using them as I learn how they will work for me.
Whoa, you sure rewicked a lot of tanks in one sitting.
Haha that's not one sitting!!! But I'm trying to find my sweet spots and it takes a lot of wasted wire... I will get there one day!!
I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one. CDR isn't about safety. CDR is about battery longevity. CDR is a statement about how hard you can drive a battery, every single time, continually, from full charge, all the way down to 2.something volts, and still maintain good performance (defined as not losing more than a certain % of mAh, or gaining a certain % of internal resistance) after several hundred charge-discharge cycles. As such, it already has quite a significant safety margin, built right in. Exceeding CDR is bad for the battery, but it isn't (necessarily) dangerous. If you don't care about replacing batteries every month or two, and are only concerned with personal safety, you can actually drive them quite a bit higher than CDR (see: "MVA - max vaping amps", an actual safety-related rating given by @Mooch after he personally tests the cells himself. MVA is [almost?] always higher than CDR.)
Yes 3 strands of 28g will be a lower resistance then one strand of 26g
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Doesn't that go into the I havnt had anything bad happen get category. If your pushing the max when something goes wrong it goes WRONG... I work with some electronics and lights and such and even though they are capable of going higher there's a universal code to not run anything over 75% of its power. If you need more power you need a bigger device. Don't try to crank something smaller to it's max bad stuff will happen it's just a matter of time.
So I went to build what you suggested earlier and ended up with 6wraps of 28g parralel on a small screwdriver I was too lazy to grab my jig. But yeah turned out great! Gonna mess with a few more.
That's the thing...CDR isn't "pushing it to the max." CDR is what the battery is rated to run at all. the. time. That's what the "C" in "continuous discharge rate" means. Not only that, it's rated to run that high all the time and still maintain good performance over time, which could be compromised while still maintaining "safe" levels at higher (MVA) discharge rate, which means the safety margin (that "universal code" you mention) is already accounted for in the lower, CDR value.
It's probably safe to take that turn at 55, but they put 40 on the sign, "just to be safe." You see 40 on the sign, but you drive 25, "just to be safe." Your passenger has confidence in your driving abilities, but says "hey, why don't you slow down a bit, just to be safe?" Pretty soon you're doing 15 in a 55 zone, "just to be safe," and can't seem to figure why all those cars are lined up behind you showing you their pretty wait, those aren't their ring-fingers...
The turn was safe at 40. Batteries are safe at CDR. There's no need to go even lower. If you're an expert, you can even squeeze a little more out, of either one.
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It should be noted though that the cdr lowers as the battery ages and no resistance reader is exactly accurate at very low resistances. That's more than enough reason not to push the cdr.
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Let's face it you only get one pair of hands, one pair of eyes and one set of teeth. WHY push the limits when there is no good reason too. If you can't stay within the CDR rating of your cell, buy a better suited cell for your needs, or go to a multi battery mod. You Tube and the media are full of idiots that thought they were experts.
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